gogmorgo

It's the white ceramic deal bolted to the driver's side fender. See below for reference: How to test it? Bypass it by connecting the two wires together. If your fuel pump suddenly works, either find a new one or leave the wires connected together permanently. All the thing does is make the fuel pump less noisy.

Good point, although in this "looking for ideas" post, he hasn't mentioned whacking anything out yet...

The rear "frame" is made out of layered stamped sheet metal, a la unibody, so welding structural components to it is generally a bad idea. Square tubing should be fine for the x-member, but do your best to attach it the same way as the factory.

They do allow you to search based on proximity of a postal code. Searching here in S'toon (with a 50 mile radius) brought up "0 participating yards" but it did show the Buck's location here, and then the one in Regina when I expanded the search radius to 250 miles, as "non-participating yards" and then suggested I suggest they add their inventory. So it does work in Canada... except it hasn't got anything listed. Maybe in time.

Do you do lots of these? If so, what are the chances you'd have a couple extra torsens kicking around?

Always wished junkyards would have at least a listing of their own on their website. Locally, most subscribe to car-part.com, but this looks like a better resource... If they can keep it updated. I really like that they include pictures.

Natural gas is more efficiently consumed by a generating station than in a car, and electricity is more efficiently distributed as well. It's a small benefit, but still a benefit. Also, corn was always a poor source of biofuels no matter how you hash it.

Correct. Drag racing isn't really my thing... my bad. Many other fields of motorsports have adopted ethanol to a certain degree, with reasonable success, in particular Indy and TUSC in the US. I'm not convinced it's much more than a marketing ploy, making it look cool to run ethanol blends. Whatever it is, though, fossil fuels are a finite resource. No one really knows when we're going to run out (but it won't be for a while) and it's not a bad idea to have something in place for when we do... and we've been distilling ethanol for over 1000 years. That's not to say it's the best option out there. Definitely not when it's corn based.

If you're still interested in trying to adjust the trans cable, http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/cherokee-transmission.html

Ethanol is made from corn that isn't considered food-grade. I guess you're taking away animal feed, though, and more importantly crop land. In other climates, ethanol is made from sugar cane, and you can get a much better return on the fuel invested that way. Brazil has been using sugar-cane based ethanol in their fuel since the oil crisis in the 70's and is at the point where it's considered sustainable. But yes, it's still much harder on just about anything it's put in than straight gasoline. Either way, corn-based ethanol sucks, and was put forward by the corn lobby who somehow managed to convince the greenies that it was better for the environment. Capitalism at work, right there. Does ethanol make a decent fuel? Ask a top-fuel dragster. But in my opinion, bio-diesels are a much better option. If we could find a decent (inexpensive and light-weight) way to store large quantities of electricity, electric vehicles would be an even better option, but currently the only vehicles that do a half-way decent job of using electricity to power them need on-board generation systems to keep them going. As much as I like my dino juice, if you've ever driven an electric performance vehicle, you'd also be converted. While most of the environmental types are a little nuts and believe just about everything the media tells them, their cause is a good one. This planet is for all intents and purposes a closed system, and it's not going to be able to take care of all the $#!& we throw at it. There's also a finite quantity of oil in the ground — It's not going to run out for a while, but it's better to have something in place for when it does, and bio-fuels are a start.

I've been thinking of doing this myself because the "quick" connectors aren't really all that quick and don't always seal so good, but haven't looked too far into it. The "quick" connectors at the tranny screw in with an m14x1.5 thread. tranny lines have an o.d. of 3/8". You should be able to find an adapter from the m14x1.5 to -6AN, and run a -6AN hose (rated for heat), as the dash 6 will be roughly the same dimensions as the 3/8 tranny line. How to connect it to the oil cooler, I'm not so sure about. whether the hard lines running to it could be unscrewed and have an adapter put in, or if the hard lines could be flared and had a dash six connector attached, I don't know. If you're looking at an aftermarket tranny cooler, then you might already have a working setup at that end. This might be a helpful thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=966931

I don't want it all that much anyway, so it doesn't bother me much that you posted it. I haven't even contacted the seller, and didn't really intend to unless it was still kicking around in a few months. I did however choose to pm someone else the direct link link, for their benefit, rather than openly posting it. I'm aware anyone with a small amount of knowledge of the internet and a desire to find it could have done so based off what I did post, and that there are very few random bozos perusing this site; but it's just a little irking when even small efforts were made to keep something semi-private and someone goes and undermines them. I'm sure you can understand that. Also, if you (or anyone else for that matter) has an issue with something that I post, please let me know and I'll take it down if it's not helpful. I'll be the first to admit it though many of you have guessed, my knowledge and experience in many areas is very limited, and I don't want to mislead anyone or cause them extra grief.

Ever pause to think that someone may have deliberately not linked to an ad?

For whatever it's worth, we're talking about a pretty old gauge and sender here. Mine tends to wander around, um, a lot. 1/4 tank variation is normal unless I've been at rest for a pretty long time. While it's accurate in a vague way, and can provide a general indication of how much fuel has been used, I wouldn't trust it to measure fuel consumed in a single minute. And Redwolf's has lived a 20% longer life than mine...

I'll pm you the link if you don't find it before I get home tonight. I don't have two grand to spend on a project car right now, and won't for a while. If you want it, I'd rather it went into good hands and not some random bozo's.

I see a few in the city every now and again, and there's usually one or two on kijiji. This is from a somewhat localish ad to me. Hoping it'll still be around once I've saved up a little. I think his $2000 asking price is a little on the high side, but not a bad starting point. Technically not a Spirit, being that it's an Eagle SX4, but it's Spirit-based. I've always had a soft spot for AMC's, especially the Eagles, even back when I was a die-hard GM fan boy and would never have looked twice at a Jeep.

Cutting costs and the fact that very few people any more know how to drain their fluids... or even known that it could be done, or that they would even have a reason for it. This service review form was in r/justrolledintotheshop a while back. 'Toba's not bad outside of Winnipeg. But it's much better the other side of that jagged line ;) Either way, this is a pretty decent corner of the world. Also, back on topic, that link you posted, what is it about the magnetic plug that makes it not a drain plug? It looks like a drain plug, and they're calling it a drain plug... a magnetic plug would just be a drain plug that collects metal filings, like the one in the tranny pan or sometimes the engine oil pan, would it not?

To throw in my 2¢ Like all electrical things, you need power in and power out. With a two-wire horn, you've got one wire for power and one for ground. A one-wire horn grounds through the mount and the 12V goes in through the single wire. Most American vehicles, in my experience at least, are single wire. Horns are fairly universal. You can pull one from just about any vehicle at a wrecking yard for real cheap. If you grab a two-wire unit, just run a wire to ground off one of terminals. You can also pick up cheap universal ones at your favourite local parts stores. If you're concerned with originality, you can pull one from an XJ or something. Otherwise pick a sound you like and grab it. As an example, Cadillacs have sets of four horns for a nice, loud, train-like chord, and the extra connectors can be spliced in easily. If you're buying new and only want one tone, like Minuit said, go for the low tone because the high tone is kinda feeble. If you're going for a two-tone horn, then get both the high and low. The wiring exists for two horns, which are mounted directly underneath the headlights, more or less behind the bumper on either side. The wires will go to both locations, whether or not each location has one, although the unused (but still completely functional) connector may require a little bit of hunting. Just make sure the connector's clean, and plug it in to your new horn. Also worth pointing out, the horn not working may be due to an issue with the wiring. It's pretty easily confirmed though with a test light in the connector.

Got my MJ stuck in snow today... needless to say mowing the lawn's one of the lesser thoughts in my mind.

I'm with Jeep Driver and Hornbrod on this. JeepcoMJ is overthinking this, and if you change the way it is, you will have issues. The four strokes of a four-stroke engine are suck, squeeze, bang, and blow. During suck and bang, the piston moves downward. During squeeze and blow, it's moving upwards. This is two complete revolutions of the crank. The cam only goes through one complete revolution, though. All four strokes require different valve positions. The cam timing marks line up once for every two times the crank timing mark does. When lining up timing, you're looking for tdc (top dead centre) on the compression stroke, i.e. between the squeeze and bang strokes. You're sitting at tdc on the exhaust stroke, between the blow and suck strokes. If you rotate the crank through another complete revolution (360°), I bet you'll find that suddenly the cam marks line up nicely. When looking for tdc, it's recommended to pull #1 spark plug and stick your thumb over the hole while turning over the engine as it'll be pushed off under compression. I prefer pulling off the distributor cap and making sure the rotor is pointed at the #1 wire. As Hornbrod pointed out, since the dizzy is driven off the camshaft (and also does one rotation for every two of the crank, because you only need the spark every other time the piston's at tdc), the distributor will also be 180° out when your cam timing marks are out by 180°. So in brief, the four strokes of your engine each correspond to half a rotation of the crankshaft. 4 x 1/2rev = 2 revolutions. Each stroke also corresponds with a quarter of a cam rotation. 4 x 1/4rev = 1 revolution. So two crank revolutions per cam revolution. If you turn the engine over with the timing cover off but timing chain on, you'll notice the small crank gear spins twice as fast as the large cam gear. #1 tdc occurs after the compression and exhaust strokes, and timing is set after the compression stroke; you're sitting at the exhaust stroke, so the cam timing is 180° out when compared to your marks. There is nothing wrong with your timing as long as you lined everything back up 180° "out", the way it you found it. If you find #1 tdc compression and look at the timing marks, they will line up. If the engine runs normally, there's nothing wrong with your timing. Even being one tooth out would be noticeable. Pulling it back apart to fix something that isn't broke is wasted effort.

Well, now that I've decided I'm getting the Olympus TG-2, they've announced that the TG-3 is coming out in June. Not sure if I want to wait for it or not. Got my tax return so I've got the money now, but I know I'll be kicking myself if I don't wait. Maybe I'll put some money into the MJ instead... What does it need again? Oh, yes, everything... right...

Mm, didn't look too close. My bad.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-image.html?adId=581725725&image=0&enableSearchNavigationFlag=false

Yeah, poor execution, all right. He doesn't even have the bed and cab mounted in line with each other.

I've seen quite a few people with simple foam blocks used to space the canoe away from the roof of their vehicle, and just strap it down, no rack of any kind involved. I've never done it myself, but it looks like it works reasonably well. I work in a national park in the summer, and I've seen many out of province vehicles with that setup.