gogmorgo

Well, we didn't want to say anything but .... Are there really only 4 of us igloo dwellers? Be right back ... Gotta go call my pet moose back... [emoji12] It's not just North of the border, either... appart from wiggilez in Edmonton, there's this 1000km semi-circle around me...

My parents had 236xxx miles on an '04 Impala ex-rental, engine running the same as the day they brought it home. Only a couple issues with a few of the electrics, but overall a reliable car until my sister failed to yield at a stop sign and wrote it off a couple years back. My guess is they'd still be driving it today if that didn't happen. My MJ has 310xxx miles on it, and while it wasn't the absolute best running thing it did pretty well for itself until I woke up late for my first day of work and tried to make a 70 mile drive in 15 minutes. I made it in around 45 minutes, but developed a very bad bottom-end knock. Saving up for stroker parts now. If the odometer is to be believed, my Lada has 027xxx miles on it, and I'm not sure I trust it to be as reliable as the MJ was, with 1/11th the mileage.

This is pretty cool... and it's not a "Bolt two V8's together" job... cause 8+8≠12. They actually cut down the center of the bore of one of the cylinder pairs on both blocks, weld them together, and sleeve the cylinder with the seam. Apparently the first one went into an airplane, so I guess it's got to be reliable... http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1643786-v12-ls1-build.html

^And less messy.

:rotf: You know you're from Winnipeg when. :yes:

Let me attempt to clarify xymj's point with a timeline. 1. You vaguely describe an issue you think you have. I don't run out of fingers counting the number of words you use. 2. Based on your very short and vague description, we can agree that there might be an issue. We don't know what it is because we don't really know what's going on. Only you do. 3. We ask for clarification about your issue so we can help. We suggest you take a picture to help clarify because you don't have the greatest history with words. (Not everyone does. Not everyone's good a getting a clear picture of what's going on from only words either.) 4. You don't follow our suggestion because it's a lot of work. (Which is understandable in this exact instance. I wouldn't drop my tranny just to take a picture, either.). But you also don't really try to clarify any other way. 5. We still can't suggest any way to resolve your issue because we still don't really know what your issue is. Some of us aren't sure it's worth the effort to try to help you because we don't know if you'll even listen to our suggestions. 6. It goes back and forth, we repeat ourselves, you repeat yourself, you can't/don't do what we suggest, and it continues until everyone is frustrated and gives up. 7. Your issue (if there even is an issue) goes unresolved. 8. You're back next week with another issue, when you haven't finished with the first. 9. The cycle repeats. Your issues mostly go unsolved, people get frustrated with you, and the only thing to show for all the time and effort is that post counts have gone up. What should you take away from this post? Don't go drop your transmission just to take a picture. Many of the members here want to help you, but we aren't magic workers. We can't see what's happening through our keyboards. You're there dealing with the problem, we're not. You know what's going on (sometimes) but we don't. You have to help us if you want us to help you. When you're working on something you need to think ahead. When you notice an issue, document it so you know what's happening. Document what looks wrong, and why you think it's wrong. Document what makes it look wrong, and how it compares to what you think it should look like if it wasn't wrong. Be specific. Sometimes it helps to keep a log book to write stuff down. Trust me, you will forget. (As an aside, in my engineering design classes, log books are often worth just as much as the actual designing process, and usually more than the finished prototype. In the professional field, your log book is your only defense when something goes wrong, and a professional engineer can have a $#!& ton go wrong because of the smallest slip-up... but if you haven't documented everything, there's no proof that you didn't screw up, and that building that collapsed or that nuclear power plant that exploded and all the people who died as a result will be pinned on you whether it was really your fault or not. I was going to keep going with that, but it's stretching the point... clear and accurate description of what you did, what you noticed, and what happened is very important.) If something doesn't look right, stop and figure out why not before continuing. It's less work to figure out something isn't an issue than it is to put something back together only to have to take it apart again because you didn't bother finding out. If something doesn't look like it's where it should be, wiggle it around to see if it's properly secured. If something looks like it's bent, give it a tug to see if it bends easily. In this case, it's a little late for that now. We're ASSuming from you posts that you'd already got everything buttoned back together. Which is fine. Don't go tearing it all apart again unless you know there's a problem and you know how to resolve it. Going back to your problem. Here I'm trying to help you clarify your problem. Please answer this question: What makes you think the frame is bowed in? Here's a list of further questions to help you answer that question. You don't need to answer them, just keep them in mind when you answer the above. They will be conflicting because it's all the things I can think of that you could mean, so consider them all individually. Was the crossmember hard to remove or put back because it seemed like the holes didn't line up? Is it possible that something happened to the crossmember to cause the holes not to line up? Does the "bowing" affect the entire frame rail or just a small section of it? Does it look like the frame rails moved from where they should be? Are the frame rails still firmly attached to the bottom of the cab? Do the frame rails look like they have cracks or stretched sections in them? Are your frame rails symmetrical? Are the frame rails closer together somewhere than they are somewhere else? Does your truck look like a banana? Did the frame rails move back and forth? Did the frame rails twist? Did the frame rails show respect to you as though you were their master? Am I running out of ideas quickly? If any of the above seem accurate, don't just copy my words. Use your own words to describe the way it is, and elaborate further. As in "the truck looks like a banana. The front end of the truck points up away from the ground, but the back end does too. If you drew a line parallel to the cab it would make a V-shape with a line parallel to the bed. The middle of the truck is lower than either end.". It would be helpful to start your answer with "I think my frame was bowed in because ... ". Again, I'm trying to help you. If you think this seems too much like being in school, guess what: school is there to prepare you for an adult life in the real world. Life isn't like school, school is like life... just easier.

Like, you can grab the two rails, and pull/push them noticeably closer together/further apart? Definitely not good. If that doesn't describe it, could you take a picture?

How to post pictures Comancheclub.com doesn't host images, so you have to link to a third-party site. I've been recommending using imgur.com for hosting pictures as an alternative to photobucket, although I recently discovered they'll only host 225 images for you for free.

There's a 5.5A circuit breaker for the wipers on the fuse box, probably what BloodofaJeep is talking about. Number 15 in this diagram, on the left side. Did you by chance unplug the wiper switch connector, located on the steering column? There are at least two long flat connectors on the steering column. The shorter of the two is for the wiper switch. The really long one is for the turn signal switch.

Likely not your issue, but make sure your tranny is securely bolted to the motor. That, and then later a cracked flex plate (don't know what tranny you have) caused similar issues, as well as a whole other world of hurt. But they were both accompanied by minor knocking every now and again. So like I said, probably not your issue, and Cruiser will always be closer to the right track, but it can't hurt to check...

Going to a heavier oil (10w40?) might help a little. But only a little. To stop the leak, you will have to replace the seals, i.e valve stem seals and/or piston rings. Before pulling things apart, though, you may want to have a chat with whoever built the motor.

Sounds to me like everyone's looking at this the wrong way... "run out of gearing" and "really whining out" seem to me like he's got some fairly low gears installed. You're saying you hit absolute top speed at ~50mph? Wouldn't surprise me if it had a lift and oversize tires on the stock axles, the guy took it offroad and the yoke broke due to added stress, the guy gave up on project, pulled the lift and tires off and left the gears in there. In that case, likely the only way to know what gears are in there is to pop the covers off and see. If you had a tach, you could compare your speed/rpm/tire size against this chart: http://comancheclub.com/topic/27178-tire-size-gear-ratio-rpm/

:hmm: What's the purpose of bumping a pinned thread?

^ What he said. I was thinking the exact same thing.

I know my owner's manual exists... somewhere. I took it out of my glove box to make a digital copy, left it sitting beside the scanner at my parents place while I was home over a year ago and never got around to scanning it before I left. My parents moved houses before I was able to make it home again, and now no one is quite sure where it went. :( Right now I'm running 20w50 oil in the MJ... course, that's just to allow me to move it around the yard without further damage to the motor. The motor's FUBAR... knocking-from-the-bottom-end-oil-pan-full-of-glitter kind of fubar. I had been running 5w30 before then, and while my oil pressure had always been low, it was slowly getting worse. I was going to switch to a 40 but then had that bad news before I got it done. I'm assuming you've got an oil pressure gauge. If so, keep an eye on it. I'm told the needle should be pretty close to vertical. Mine never was, but it was within the spec that someone on here quoted. Don't remember what that spec was, though. As far as oil weights go, (as I'm sure your know) the second number is once it's up to operating temperature, and the first number is for cold starts. A 5w30 is effectively the same as a 10w30. Based on what I know now, if I could go back, I'd be running 5w40 for the winter, probably switching out to a 15w40 for the summer. Of course, my motor has twice the miles that yours does. Supposedly it was rebuilt at ~320,000, but judging from the crap that I've put up with, I'm pretty positive the guy who did it would have reused the original bearings and mostly just put in a bunch of el-cheapo gaskets. If you did put in the 5w30, I wouldn't be in too much of a rush to switch it out. Buddy of mine runs 5w30 year-round in his '96 4.0 XJ with no issues and good oil pressure, similar mileage to your '91. But it wouldn't hurt to run a heavier oil starting from the next time you change it.

Adapters are an okay move, assuming you go for a decent quality hub-centric one. Same as wheel spacers. The crappy cheap ones on eBay are mostly lug-centric, and that's the big no-no.

Do I smell funny or something? My marker is pretty lonely up there... lol.

'89 Sport truck 2.5L 4-speed 2wd, D35 short bed Wesman Salvage, Brandon, Manitoba, Canada Black plastics in great shape, flares, bumper end caps, trim pieces, etc. Base as base models can get. Silver w/ very dirty and/or faded maroon interior. Bench seat. Missing valve cover. Straight but kinda rusty body. Driver's side tail light good, passenger side has good lens but someone pried it out with two screws left in it and broke the holes in the back. Rear bumper plastics okay, but bumper rusty and twisted. Photo dump:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=449806 How to post pics.

1989 Pioneer. It's the one in the back. 4.0, 5-speed, 2wd. Dana 35, short bed. Currently sitting at Wesman Salvage in Brandon, Manitoba, Canada. Status: At the junkyard. 211,400 km (131,000 miles) White outside, with black hockey stick pioneer decals. Grey interior, cloth bench seat. Tail lights cracked or missing, "aftermarket" (farmer) bumper, Duraliner shortbed liner in good shape. Body fairly straight but usual rust spots are all bad. Good rear glass, three-piece but either not a slider or the catch is gone. Tailgate rust-free but not straight. Pic dump:

And a pic dump from a year later. Still more or less the same as I left it, just sunk a little further into the ground. I took the rear bumper and the rear right taillight this time. Rockers and cab corners are better than the others here (and mine!) but still pretty rusty.

Okay, this was kinda a long time coming, but this is the first time I really wandered around the whole yard and I took a bunch of pics. Pretty well I got there, went "I have six hours to kill" and went nuts, then realized "Oh shoot, I'm doing useful stuff here, not just visiting the museum". In some ways, that's what it is. It's kinda out of the way, and there's a crap ton of old stuff that hasn't been picked over too much. Also, I was going to get this up sooner, but I just discovered that Imgur has a limit for how many pics you can have before you need to start paying, and well... yeah. So this is a link to my facebook album which you should be able to see whether or not you're signed in. All the pictures I took are in there. All 207. There's some pretty cool (in my mind... mostly just unique) stuff at this yard, like a Yugo, a Laforza, a Renault LeCar, and a lot of really old stuff that I didn't manage to get pics of. Lots of old iron (old enough that I don't know what it is initially) and I kind of glossed over most of that. There was a Model T truck chassis in decent shape that I swore I took at least a few pics of but turns out I didn't, a few other things from the 30's, old trucks mostly, and upwards. The back sections where the old stuff lives are kinda woodsy, stuff's pretty grown in, but getting around isn't too bad. A good bunch of the pics aren't of MJs, and some are (especially the non-mj Jeeps) things I might come back for. Some of them I look at and don't know why I took them. At any rate, the MJ's. They say they only have five but they've got six. As a whole they're pretty picked over, most have been sitting there for a while, but between them there's still a bunch of stuff left. I'm going to put them all in the registry with all the pics of each I took if I can get the vins out of the pics. I wasn't so good at getting shots of the entire truck, mostly I was trying to take reference pics so I'd remember what was where. Front, '91 sportruck, 2.5 2wd manual (missing powertrain). Rear left, 86 XLS Auto 2.5L 4x4 (this one isn't in their computer system, at least under Comanche). Rear right, '89 Pioneer, 2wd, 4.0, 5-speed. Right, '86 from above pic. Middle, '89 sportruck, 2.5 2wd. Left, 88 2.5L 2wd... very rusty. And this one's sitting away from the rest. It's a '92(!) 4.0 HO, AW4, NP232. Same as mine except everything's maroon and parts are missing (not too many), and it's a '92 not a '91. The oem canopy's in great shape, except someone took the rear door out of it, hinges and all.

Try searching for a Cherokee with the same specs as your MJ? Lots of systems don't have much about the Comanche in them, and could have errors due to so few hits that the bugs haven't been picked up. Lots of XJ knowledge and people and parts out there, and everything under the hood should be the same. I don't know much about the Renix system, but there were two styles of distributor for the HO's, one early, one late, with the switch happening around 94 or 95 I think. The cap is the same between the two, but the rotor isn't, and the two aren't interchangeable. I don't know, but I'm fairly confident neither will fit a Renix. The cap might, but you should probably check that somehow.

Year is always the 10th digit. I'll bet your 10th digit is a J. But yes, an S in the 10th position would indicate a '94 model year.

Sorry, better answers in the other thread. Didn't see it before I posted. My above answer is based off gojeep's diy measurements.