gogmorgo

The HMMWV center sections changed about 20 years ago. They had been running an AMC20 with a Torsen T1 in it. Don't know about the replacement, as it didn't interest me beyond it not being a T1, but it was brought about by cost... Torsens aren't cheap to manufacture unless you're doing it in Eastern Europe. I've been wondering about trying to put something together with an old HMMWV T1 and an MJ AMC20, in an attempt to get a factory-esque Torsen rear diff into an MJ. Trouble is, the HMMWV achieves its final drive through the gearing in the portals, and the diff runs something like a 2.7 ratio, which is below the cut-off line for gear sizes on a regular AMC20 carrier. I don't know if it would be possible to even have reliable gears for a more practical ratio custom made for the Torsen carrier. Having a custom Torsen carrier made would be prohibitively expensive... we're talking several days worth of machine time.

A little bit of catalytic converter 101: Going down to basics, a cat is a series of tubes lined with a catalyzing agent that triggers a chemical reaction, transforming bad exhaust gasses to less bad exhaust gasses. These tubes are completely free-flowing with no obstructions. In most cats, they're perfectly straight, and you can kinda see through it, although the tubes are really small so you have to be looking at exactly the right angle. The tubes are small so there's lots of surface area for better exposure of the exhaust gasses to the catalyst. If you've ever looked at a cat, you'll notice it's a lot fatter in the middle than your exhaust pipe is. Some of this is heat shielding, cause they like to run HOT!, but mostly this is so that the cross-section area of your exhaust doesn't go down. I won't say there's no constriction at all, because the flow does get a little jumbled going into the tubes and there's some turbulence on the way out of them, but it's not going to make enough difference to even be noticeable on the butt dyno. It is enough though to be noticeable on a real dyno, but you're looking at very low single-digit percentage gains by deleting the cat. 2% is a number I often see cited for a brand new cat being deleted. There are more power gains to be had by deleting an older cat, but that's mostly dependent on how clogged it was.

The drop has stopped up here, as of a couple weeks ago. It went up about $0.06/L, but it's held pretty steady there. Sucks... We got so close to <$1/L. :(

2.5" is a 20% increase in diameter and 23% increase in cross-section area over 2.25". That's huge. Unless you've got issues with your setup, i.e. clogged cat, there's no way you'll get as much change in flow, even going to straight pipe.

There are many Canadians who are fairly active who haven't put a marker on the map. I'm aware of several members in Alberta, at least two in Sask, and one in 'Toba who aren't on there. There are those who don't want to make their locations so obvious.

ZJ parts may do you, as far as early 4.0 stuff is concerned, although the later ones used different transmissions, I think. It's just easier to use XJ parts because they had the same drivetrain combos. WJ and later Grand Cherokee stuff is very different.

Nit-picking here, but #/' is a totally inappropriate way to represent lb-ft. It's a multiplication, not a division. ...Yeah I've got problems...

It's an H4 harness. It'll fit your stock sealed beams, since your sealed beams use the same socket as an H4 bulb. But because the XJ/MJ don't use H4 bulbs, their systems will say they won't fit, despite the fact that the two are use the same socket. The housings allow you to change out the sealed beams for a brighter replaceable bulb, if you so want. I personally didn't find it necessary, as the harness alone with properly-aimed OEM-equivalent sealed beams was more than enough for me on dark highways at night.

Can't speak for the Mustang in question, but a typical rallye car as used in previous Gymkhana videos has a LOT more than the typical AWD setup. Torque-vectoring differentials front, rear, and center — far more than can be accomplished with a torque-biasing limited slip — with clutches on the rear axle to cut power so the hydraulic handbrake can properly lock the rear wheels. This is in addition to the sequential transmission, fully adjustable and independent suspension, massive turbo, and everything else that makes it a race car. Do you really need all this? Probably not. A beefy enough drivetrain with limited slips or even lockers would likely get you there. Snow, or even rain makes things easier of course. Just don't expect to not break things. Pretty sure this thing is stock, although It's apparently an export-model Libby with the 3.0CRD, which so far as I know, the Libby never got. You could hit the parking lot with what you got now, and add beef when things break. Just be safe, be legal, and don't come after me when you break things.

9004 bulbs don't use the same socket. Source: I'm sitting in a parts store staring at them. 9003 is the only other bulb I can find with the h4 socket, without cracking open the sealed beans.

You do need to change the bulbs... you unplug them from the old harness and plug them into the new one. The clerk's probably looking at the H4 harness vs the H6054(?) factory sealed beams. H4 is a separate type of bulb. The two use the same sockets so it's not an issue. Of course, there are probably some other harnesses out there made by Putco that have different sockets, so if you do go back instead of getting it off amazon, make sure you're getting the right one.

My '91 does as well.

:peek: Would perhaps be interested in knowing more about this thing you have sitting around... You would perhaps be wiling to part with it?

The light, or your brain? :teehee:

:cheers: :clapping: :rock on: . :MJ 2: . :group beer: :driving: :jump: Congrats! I always hate working under the dash... at least you don't have a floor shifter to deal with in there like my MJ. Sometimes I find it easier to lay across the truck instead of out the door. Some of the stuff in the Lada required me to lay across the tranny tunnel for access with both hands, couldn't get at it properly through the door, and with a footwell full of antifreeze there was no way I was risking getting my hair in it. Been there done that too many times. The Lada has not one, not two, but THREE shifters that all want to go for my kidneys it seems. Silly Soviets, simplifying things by making them more complex, and then not building them properly... Sometimes I wonder why I drive this POS. Then I laugh at myself because that's really what it's all about. A fun and unique winter beater that keeps me busy. But it really makes me miss driving my MJ... I need to do something about that motor ASAP. A few years back I discovered that it was easiest to get at stuff to change the blower motor in my parents Impala when I was completely upside-down in the seat, with my feet in the air. My Dad walked into the garage to see how I was doing, took one look at me with my knees hooked over the top of the seat back, and walked out. I heard him roaring with laughter all the way upstairs in the house. :teehee:

Possibly, but to my knowledge, no such wire/cable exists. On my '91 it didn't. The only two cables on my shifter were the shifter cable itself, and the ignition lockout. I could throw it into gear without stepping on the brake. The things off the top of my head that I believe wires on the brake pedal of a vehicle from this period would be most useful for would be: brake lights, cruise control shut off, and torque converter unlock. I can also potentially see a remote starter vehicle shut-down, but they look too factory for what wouldn't have been a factory option. I'd say the TC unlock is most likely.

If it is just a freeze plug, and the rest of them are in good shape, not pushed out or anything, now wouldn't be the worst time to install a block heater into the plug that failed, if you don't have one already. Useful useful things (if you remember to use them, but I keep forgetting to plug in the Lada's). Also while you've got the coolant drained, it wouldn't be a bad time to do a bit of a flush and swap out the thermostat for one from a dealer, if you can.

Not sure I entirely followed everything you did there, but glad I could help? :dunno: :thumbsup: Good to hear you got it fixed. Driving with fogged up windows because you can't put heat onto them sucks serious balls, not to mention is downright dangerous. Trust me, I know first hand from very recent experience!

There was a guy I used to follow on YouTube, CORVAIRWILD (his was before they started insisting on real names, yeah it was a while ago that I moved away from YouTube) who was either in upstate New York or Vermont... never could figure it out. He swore by Fluid Film for a while, and daily drove a near-mint 80's diesel 'Burb. Only complaint I ever noticed wasn't so much his but a bodyman's who was repainting the 'Burb after a collision. The Fluid Fim crept so much and was so good at sticking on there that he was having trouble getting it off the back of panels, and it crept around and contaminated the fresh paint. Bodyman was also a 'Tuber, and the only reason I knew that was because I was already following him. At any rate, this guy, CORVAIRWILD was who first got me into MJ's. Well, not him directly, but he vlogged everything he did, and a drill guy he hired for a well used them almost exclusively. They were the coolest small trucks I'd ever seen Because of this, when I saw what would become mine for sale, instead of looking past it, I had to have it... and then paid waaaay too much for it.

I'm mostly just looking at '88 wiring diagrams in my suggestions. For chassis (non-drivetrain) stuff they've mostly been accurate for my '91, wire colours aside. They're the sme pdf package that's been floating around on here, and can link to them if you want. If you've got power to the other stuff running off the same circuit in the fuse panel as the blower motor, but not to the blower fuse itself, then it's a pretty good guess that your issue lies in the fuse panel somehow. The reverse lights share the turn signal circuit (and fuse). If the turn signals work, then your reverse light issue probably isn't related to your blower issue. I don't really have any experience with the electrical side of the heater/blower stuff in the MJ, though, and am basing most of what I'm saying off the afore-mentioned diagrams, which as you suggest may not be entirely accurate. In other news, I've successfully replumbed my heater, so I'm staying warm again. Still need to figure out what to do with the antifreeze-soaked carpet, though...

35% of the class involved in collisions, 10% of the class rolled? Yeah, that's bad alright. There's usually a bit of a (re)learning curve here, too, after the first big snowfall. I'm hoping it's not going to be that way though, as we've been very slowly accumulating in small quantities, not even an inch at time. I've been commuting on our ring road to a new job for the last two weeks, and I've been held up 3 out of 10 days because some idiot rear-ended someone else. The first two were before it snowed. Distracted driving is what it is. Still can't understand why people can't DRIVE while they're driving. Seems like a pretty obvious thing to me... The last one they didn't even bother moving the not-particularly damaged cars off the road. I was brought to a stop right before an exit, but I was planning on getting off at the next exit anyhow and then traffic crept forward a little so I figured I'd be fine and it would clear up. Wrong. Took me 25 minutes to make it the half-mile to the next exit, which was after the collision.

A bit of an aside, but I recently found out that in some states, the inspection performed before a rebuilt title is issued isn't so much a roadworthiness inspection as it is an inspection into whether or not you can prove that you didn't acquire the parts you used to rebuild the vehicle by stripping the vehicle prior to abandoning it and then legally acquiring it at auction. The cars that pass do so because the repairer had receipts for parts he may or may not have installed on the vehicle. :eek: Whether or not it gets a salvage title is really up to the insurance company, and some do it differently than others. Most have a cost to rebuild as a percentage of total value set, but it can be a little foggy in some cases. One member on here had unibody damage to his XJ, but kept a clean title, after the insurance company very nearly wrote it off. In some states it's regulated more than others. My best guess is if they haven't issued a salvage title (and the seller says it's clean), then it's probably still clean.

You think it's cold where you live? I spent a couple days with the heater core bypassed in my daily driver because the heater plumbing decided it preferred to heat the interior by dumping all my coolant into the passenger footwell... Waiting till it's cold, alright. And it's still a relatively warm 9°F here. Honestly glad that happened now instead of in a couple months. At any rate, the circuit that gives power to the blower fuse also runs the radio (cigarette lighter), and turn signals and backup lights. If those are still working and you aren't getting power to the blower fuse, then the problem lies in the fuse panel. If those also aren't working, then a good place to check would be the brown wire leading from the ignition switch.

You can get used/dirty panels at a junk yard. Making your own "factory style" panel would require the oem fasteners (help section at parts store), a stiff baking panel (thin wood, heavy cardboard, sheet metal) and fabric or padding to on the visible side.

Also, cleaning the NSS won't take very long, and is free if you already have brake or electric cleaner, dielectric grease, and optionally a silicon sealer...