gogmorgo

I think if I remember right, Ontario also required reinspection every couple years? Either way, enough vehicles fail inspection for seemingly bogus reasons in MB and SK (like the passenger side sun visor's missing... true story) that everyone complains about the inspection and the government sticking their noses where they don't belong, even if they fail for serious problems. And in the rural areas where enforcement isn't as severe, that often leads to the crapcans running around with no registration or insurance... you can't always fix stupid. I'm mostly okay with natural selection, but when it could also select an innocent bystander? not so much...

Use this button: Right click on the picture you want to use, select "copy image location" or "copy image address" depending on which browser you use. Then paste the address into the dialog you get with the above button. For what it's worth, I've had mixed luck in the past trying to use Facebook's "get link" option. It doesn't always seem to actually link back to the picture.

It does look like it's in really good shape... but those wheels! My eyes! They bleed!

In Manitoba, you need a safety inspection every time you change owners (unless you're selling it to family or it it's part of an inheritance). This includes rust, but it doesn't catch all the vehicles out there. As long as it's still owned by the same person it won't ever need an inspection, even if it sits unused/unregistered/uninsured/rotting in a field for a very long time. In Saskatchewan it's a little bit better but also much worse, because vehicles only need inspected when they're brought into the province or if they haven't been registered for I think a period of five years (but I could be wrong about the exact length of the period). They do however do these "sweep the street" check stops where they inspect vehicles and pull them off the road if they've got too many issues, which is better than what happens in Manitoba (nothing). I don't know if they actually check for structural rust, though... I've never actually seen one of the stops, I just keep hearing about them. Maybe cause I've got 'Toba plates still... but at any rate I don't know how intense an inspection could get at a traffic stop. A buddy of mine got an early 90's Civic pulled off the road in one of those stops due to rust in the fenders, a crack in the windshield, and an exhaust leak. He did have the opportunity to fix the issues, but it wasn't worth it to him.

Don't have experience with the HF brand one, but my experience is that the Princess Auto tools (jacks, hoists, etc) we can get up here look like they come out of the same factory in China but with different paint on 'em. If you don't use it too often, it should do you, but if you plan on using it every day at or near its full capacity for the next ten years, your money may be better spent on something else. It'll at least be expected to work under moderately heavy use until the warranty runs out.

The ground for the pump is behind the driver's side tail light, and has been known to cause issues. Have you checked that?

The teflon tape is a bad sign. The bolts that the calipers slide on should have boots to retain grease for lubrication and to keep crap out. Without proper lubrication and protection, the caliper could seize up. You might want to pull the calipers off to see what's up with the pads. There is no logical reason to put shims behind pads unless something is seriously wrong (i.e. mismatched or worn/damaged parts). The calipers are self-adjusting. Looking at the picture again, it almost looks like the "shims" are the friction material of the brake pad that has separated from the backing plate... which I think is something I've heard about with cheap pads, but have no experience with. I've always had good luck just going into a parts store and getting whatever middle-of-the-range OEM equivalent pads/rotors they have in stock.

^What he said. The MJ doesn't share the same roof line as the XJ. Otherwise it's just a typical windshield visor.

Typically a leak at a rad hose is due to either a compromised hose or compromised seal. If it's a new hose, probably you can ASSume it's the seal, in which case try to tighten up the hose clamp. Cheap hose clamps don't last long, so that could also be a problem. If it helps, a (very long) while back, another member had an issue with a ZJ rad hose leak... IIRC the nipple for one of the rad hoses didn't have a bead around the tip, and the solution was to make one out of JB weld or something similar. But before you check any of this (especially since the latter requires dumping all your coolant), see the below. Your suggestion that it's related to the level of the overflow makes me doubt that the lower rad hose is to blame here. They're just too far apart. Now, I've never studied a ZJ rad in person, but google tells me that like in an MJ, the rad cap is directly above the lower rad hose connection. Wouldn't surprise me if a loose or leaky rad cap was to blame. Once the coolant level drops past the cap, then no more leak. Another thing worth noting is that the overflow connects just below the rad cap, and any issues with that connection could also cause a leak. Any leaks along the overflow hose or even possibly at the overflow tank could also be running down the hose to the rad cap area as well. Again, once the level drops below the leak, it would stop leaking. With fluid leaks, unless you spend a good amount of time travelling backwards on your roof, it's generally a good idea to look upwards and forwards to find the source of the leak. If you know which fluid is leaking and you know the leaking stops at some point, the level where it stops is often near the level of the leak. My experience with my coolant system (I replaced the entire thing out of my MJ except for the heater core and overflow bottle in a slow process over the course of a year as parts failed and budget allowed) is that it can take a couple days to get everything settled into it's permanent spot and for all the leaks to show up. Things that may not have initially leaked may develop leaks later on.

It's not tricky at all. Just don't try to connect or disconnect it while the fuel pump's running... because flammable liquids under pressure...

Just the top two. If they're as loose as mine were, though, you probably can tell. Mine were actually either missing sheared by the time I noticed. Also, cause yours is a Renix motor, you should do as many of these as you can: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Your problem could easily be due to poor grounds.

32 psi at idle 39 at WOT or with vacuum line disconnected from fuel pressure regulator. I'd assume this is the same as with the engine not running. Found at a couple different sources, and more or less in line with my memory.

It's been quoted on here, but I don't trust my memory of them, so I won't post them to avoid confusion. But I will go look them up and post if you don't find them first. There's one pressure with the engine running, and one with the engine running and the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line unplugged. Don't know if you'll be able to get a good reading if you can't really keep the engine running. I would assume the one with the vacuum unplugged would be the same weather or not the engine was running, though.

4 bolts, at about the 1, 4, 8, and 11 o'clock positions, if memory serves. The two on top are E12 external torx head, and really hard to get at. The best way to check that they're tight is with a wrench, which may be tricky. There are loads of other things that could cause this too, though.

My MJ did similar things when the engine and tranny weren't entirely bolted together. That's about all the advice I can give. For the actual gurus on here, post up your year, engine, transmission, and drivetrain for better help when getting advice. It really helps to put it in your signature. As an example, my MJ is a 1991 4.0L 4x4 automatic.

The code 33 was likely the last one, yes? I've read that in a non-a/c Jeep it can be the end-of-codes code. My MJ has a/c, and I get a 55 code as end of codes. You didn't get a 55 so I'm assuming that's what's happening with that one. I doubt the cooling fan relay issue is your problem, unless you overheated and blew your head gasket or something... Wouldn't hurt to check for cross-contamination of fluids (oil+coolant) or check compression. The code 12 seems to be something my truck threw out whenever there were codes to throw. While yes, my battery cables were/are pretty $#!&ty, it only ever gave the code 12 when other codes were present or if I had just had the battery disconnected for one reason or another. Check fuel pressure as well anyhow. Jeep Driver's MAP sensor theory could also be something to look for. I would have expected a code for that, but your motor may not be running long enough for it to actually throw one. If you've got a buddy with a decent running XJ, you could always swap the map sensors to see what happens. This is completely unrelated to your issues, but your set of codes is exactly what I got from my Lada today and forgot to look up. I'll go do that. Hope you find your problem!

There's a trim piece over the vent, which is addressed in that write-up. It's the one I followed when I pulled my dash back in February this year. One thing you will notice that isn't included in the XJ writeup is that an MJ's parking brake release handle is bolted to the lower dash panel. I'm pretty sure you can get that trim panel out without pulling the entire dash, if that panel is what's broken. Pulling the dash is a lot of work. The actual defroster vent itself sits behind the dash, and won't come out with it., which is likely why it's not in the write-up. I don't know how it comes out as I wasn't interested in that part when I had my dash out. It's probably obvious how to pull it once you've got the dash out.

The headlight &c switch on the dash can be problematic sometimes. The coil for the rheostat (i.e. dash light dimmer) can get bunched up and develop dead spots, among other things. Have you tried turning the knob to see what happens? Having all the bulbs go out is unlikely, but not unheard of, although it wouldn't have happened all at once. Think of the neglectful owner who doesn't notice that one bulb is out, or doesn't known how to change it and doesn't want to pay someone else to do so. One bulb out becomes two, two becomes three, three becomes all of them. My parents have let this happen in their vehicles. But before you start tearing into things, have you checked all your fuses?

Have you checked for codes? Sorry, can't do the link on my phone, but the thread's pinned in the diy forum.

Just saw that the price here is down to $1.159/L, so roughly US$3.89/gal.

Welcome to the madness! First things first, :needpics: Just kidding. Couple threads to help you out: How to post pictures Other posting awesomenesses Looking forward to seeing pics. I spent a couple weeks down in NC, in the Asheville area mostly, although not so much in the city. Whole lot of excellent views. Pretty beautiful country. Too bad about the VW, though. The Karmann Ghia was one of my childhood favourites.

TL/DR = too long, didn't read I'm really not sure about this one. Part of me really wants to hang onto it, and the rest of me knows it's probably going to continue being a money suck. There are better MJ's out there, but this one's mine, eh? Yeah, I've got a problem. :doh: The budget really isn't around for getting started on anything yet, so I've got a while to make a decision.

I've also had my cluster out a couple times, and can attest to that plug being difficult. Rocking it back and forth was the key for me, iirc.

Yup, fuel prices are slowly coming down after summer up here as well. I last paid $1.199/L or about $4.04/gal after exchange rates for 87 obtane.

Yeah, that. I only just noticed that he converted it to 4x4, but with different gears in the front axle than the rear... so what was the point, exactly?