WahooSteeler

I'll add to the number of people that have said that a coax/triax speaker in the stock rear position is all but useless other than some midrange frequency, and the high frequencies will be completely muddled and actually take away from your overall sound experience IMO. Components are really the only way, IMO, to get good contributing sound in the rear of the cab using the stock mounts. More options on components for the fronts at least for tweeter locations, i.e. up high in the door or using the A-pillar etc. All that said, I have the basic set up like Pete mentioned, 5.25" coax in the doors and a dual voice coil bazooka tube behind the passenger seat with 70w at 2ohms going to it. The truck is not my daily (actually it's my son's DD for now) so I didn't worry about an expensive or super custom setup. Regardless, it puts out surprisingly good sound with plenty of thump when you want it. Just as important is the Pioneer head unit I have offers plenty of customization with high pass filters and crossover points. I know these features are pretty common now on even a mid-level deck, but it really helps dial in the sound on a system like this.

I just installed one and I guess I've got some adjusting to do. It won't fully engage 4x4, xfer case is grinding whether I'm in hi or lo. I'm thinking when it hits the gate for 4hi it is just short of engaging. I used the top hole on the xfer case plate, might have to try the middle or bottom hole also. Any suggestions are appreciated from people who have this and had to fiddle with adjustments.

That's what I've been thinking. The ribs in the center of pump side I believe are the lock for the release clip which is on the other side. I don't know if the connector is purposely that far out, IIRC if you have the connectors reversed it won't go in all the way.

I like that idea a lot too! I've got some knockoff FlexSeal I might test on an extra piece of carboard to see if it will adhere.

I installed aftermarket water shield/vapor barrier on the door after having removed the OE barrier to install new window regulator and apply sound deadener. Water is going to get in there at some point be it heavy rains or whatever, my goal with coating the card is hopefully an extra level of protection. And I believe just gluing a plastic barrier to the door card would help even more. Just a thought......

I actually just did something similar to one of my door cards a couple of weeks ago. I used the RustOleum Neverwet Multi-Surface 2 Step application. $12 on Amazon. I had intended to spray or drizzle some water on it after application to see if the water rolled off........but never got to it. It's my son's DD and I had to reinstall the door card the next morning after doing it since he's living @20mins away with friends this summer. Anyhoo, I liked the idea that it sprayed on in multiple light coats and dries quickly therefore the cardboard never looked or appeared wet. When it dries you can feel the texture of it, kind like a fine grit sandpaper. I still need to do the passenger card so I'll definitely "test" it when I'm done. All that said, as I was spraying it on I was thinking it couldn't be that hard to get some heavy mil plastic sheeting from a hardware store, some 3M spray adhesive, then just apply to the card and cut to fit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTOEQUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Somewhat surprised none of the Big 3 had done this yet with Americans' unquenchable thirst for SUVs and pickups. Honda has had reasonable success with the Ridgeline, more so now since they accepted consumers would never consider any Honda a "truck" and came out with the more refined model currently on the road. But I'm guessing many Americans will see a Ford badge and subconsciously consider it more of a truck than they ever would have a Ridgeline. I'm not a blue oval fan, but I would agree they are swinging for the fences with lots of new vehicles and a huge commitment to electric. Good for competition and hopefully good for us consumers.

That's either a really special rock on that dolly or a really special kind of stupid to go through that trouble. SMH

Looks like might be available on car-part.com

Have you checked Jeepair.com ?

Instead of swapping a Mercedes diesel in to your older 4x4, just swap your 33s on to your Mercedes!

Looks good Bizarro! Thanks for sharing

Potentially the biggest issue you may end up having is that they were not flow tested together as a matched set. The oddball one may have enough of a different flow rate that it could cause a rough running engine. Maybe not, but very possible.........

That's an excellent find, I think the transducer is often the real issue behind EGR problems. The diaphragms are know to tear and, in my case, the orifice was clogged with carbon. Other than the size of the diaphragm and/or amount of vacuum it pulls, I have no idea what the specs would be to make this work or not. And fortunately it's not a crazy expensive part so worth giving it a try or having in your parts bin as a backup.

As the title says.........shipped to biz address 22980 Thanks

CGCWO, do you have the transducer to go with it, that little round black spaceship looking thing?

I recently saw someone that did this, think it was on a FB group, and they listed the parts from Amazon. @$40 total for 2 struts and 4 mounts .......haven't ordered mine yet, but I plan to soon! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IV6AYE/?coliid=I186EM1ONT849W&colid=24KJVY5FEJULJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SHN1YP/?coliid=I183X4D6NOXZA5&colid=24KJVY5FEJULJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I hope you don't catch a big cross-wind or that trailer might be up in the air spinning like Dorothy's house in Kansas or something out of Twister! Safe travels!

Check out this FACTORY 1/2 cab bus, and by 1/2 cab I mean 1/2 cab LOL! It can be yours for $32.5K https://williamsport.craigslist.org/cto/d/montandon-1965-vw-bachelor-cab-truck/7318581381.html

He's a member here......Nathan is his name but I don't remember his screen name. I'm pretty sure he sold it so if it's up for sale again it's somebody else. He's got @5 comanches including a nice Street Comanche......shoulda kept the dually.

First off........WOW!! That is a helluva load! My OE MT springs will need replacing at some point, they've lived a good life. Did you have to custom order those from General? I know they make MT springs and have heard they will add lift to them if requested.

Pretty sure it was originally a manual too, looks like I see a hole on the firewall beside the brake master cylinder where the clutch reservoir would go on a manual. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but as mentioned above, the truck needs to be looked over very closely considering all the modifications it's apparently had.

Must not have been pressure treated wood......

4.10s and 32s are nearly identical in the RPMs/speed as stock tires and 3.55s, as you've already pointed out. Just me, but even if you're only on the interstate occasionally, 4.56s are turning a lot more RPMs and I'd think fuel mileage will take a decent hit. If you're not wheeling it hard and don't think you'll go up in tire size later, 4.10s seem to be the match. But as always, personal preference.........