87manche

Yeah, we're all Napoleonic and compensating.

I wonder if you shouldn't just attach some plexiglass to your bars to keep some of the mud out.

all Mj's are spring UNDER axle from the factory. Going spring over axle is good for about 5 inches of lift.

Likely it's all they could find a complete drivetrain from.

I've decided how I'm going to make my trail doors. liek an aircraft window. I'm going to cut down and then make a pice of plexi to go over them. I'm going to make a removable hinge at the top so I can pull them all the way off. And I'm going to put a hasp on the inside to I can lock them. I'm thinking a piano hinge on the inside so it should be pretty secure. Will be nice for when you're out wheeling and leave the heep at a camp site, or go into town for dinner or something. I'll take pics, and I'm likely to get my free doors this weekend. So out come's the Sawzall.

I think that the difference will be more than an inch,since you have 2WD coils in the front, and those are shorter than the 4WD coils. So figure if they give an inch to a 4WD XJ, and you have 2wd coils that sit roughly an inch lower than that. So 2" plus whatever your old coils have sagged to.

man, I wish I would have known sooner. Just sold a running 2.5, trans and t-case for $175 on Naxja. If that deal falls through it's yours for that price. It even came out of a 86, had 114K on it.

I''d recommend that you bond the battery neg terminal to a solid part. I chose the inner fender. It really helped a lot. Now everything works better. I'd also say that you need to pull the grounding strap from the firewall, take some sandpaper to the surface it mounts to and clean the whole thing well. Then use some OX-Guard to keep it clean. Doing those things made my truck start faster and run better. Lights were brighter and the like. The stock guage isn't too terribly accurate. Turning on the heater in my truck instantly registers a 2 volt drop on the guage, but measuring the voltage at the battery it doesn't change. I suspect that the guage shares a circuit with a few things, and the wire is undersized, just like every other wire.

that looks like a dash that came out of a waggy. You gonna do a waggy front end? I think that would look sweet on an MJ. I like the quad lights.

I just got a set of doors for free, so looks like I'm making some of these. Bonus that the mirror is the stalk one, so I can move it.

might want to consider LED's on a proto board. Thats the way I'm going, they'll be less than 1/4" thick.

I've got no skid and the plastic cover is long gone. Looks like I'm gonna have to make one. Unless someone has a skid plate for a LWB gas tank. Does anyone know if the optional large tank on a SWB is the same tank? I'm going to look at this 90 SWB a guy is parting out today, and if it's the same skid I can hope that it has one.

I had issues with my metal straps, I just greased them and they've been fine.

ten spokes are awesome, that's what I've got. How did you paint the inside of the rims to color match. I really like how that looks. What paint did you use. I'll likely be painting the insides of my spokes black, so when i herculine the bottom of the rockers it will match that.

Mine: 028948 Country of Origin United States of America Manufacturing Plant Toledo, OH Model Name/Code COMA Trim Level PION Body Type Long Bed Engine Description 4.0 Liter MPI GVWR Weight Class 4,001 - 5,000 Lbs. Chassis 4x4 Brake System Hydraulic Number of Doors 2 Number of Cylinder 6 Parts Catalog Model Code J Vehicle Class Pickup Model Year 1987 Make Jeep Model Comanche Model Details Liberty Options Media: AM/FM Radio Tuner Power Steering Engine Cylinders 06 Doors Two Drive: Four Wheel Drive Power Brakes Daytime Running Lights Seems pretty accurate, it is an 87 LWB pioneer.

do the serial number, it's more authentic.

I always wonder what that little geo metro on steroids looking thing is.

I heard something about ford tbird coils, but you have to make a plate for them cause they're too small for the stock coil buckets. I read something about them on the mothership, so search tbird coils. As far as the UCAs, I got new lowers with my 3" lift and was just going to use the stock uppers if it doesn't do so bad on the pinion angle.

a factory service manual is going to be your best friend. I've found that haynes wiring diagrams are pretty worthless, but the pictures are golden. an 88 you say. PM sent.

Just because no one's mentiong how to check the front end. Jack it up and put it on stands so the front end is unloaded, then push pull and prod everything under there, tighten everything that's loose, and replace everything that wiggles.

You have a 2.5 a 2.5 from the factory with a 5spd came with 4.10's, I'm not sure about what came with an auto. Stock d30 and d35 axles are good to 31's. The 30 is worth beefing to take larger tires, if you want bigger than 31's ditch the 35, it's got weak tubes and small axle shafts, and if you fix those problems the ring and pinion is weak too. It's likely that the I6 springs will give you a bit of lift, but only because the spring rate is stiffer to support the extra weight. Instlling them will make the front end ride like @$$. If you like having your filling shaken out go ahead, other wise, I'd just get some spacers to get your 2" lift. Alo bear in mind that MJ shackles are longer than XJ shackles from the factory, so if you're ordering lift shackles for an XJ keep in mind that it won't lift you as high. Going over your pictures again it looks like there may be a small add a leaf in your rear pack. Can we get any close ups of the pack?

Yes, you can't use a 2.5 trans with a 4.0, it would explode in short order. Rather than trying to find a 4.0 AX-15 (Trust me, it's a hard one to get a hold of) I'd just keep the AW4 and manually control it. That way you wire the ECM like a 5 spd and don't even worry about the Trans harness and the TCU.

can't swap the trans between a 2.5 and 4.0, the 2.5 trans wouldn't last long. Yes, it is possible. You'll need the eingine wiring harness and ECM from the 4.0 jeep. I'd say keep the auto and manually control it.

I wouldn't center them, My 78" rails are about 2 inches short, but I put the rail all the way forward and left the gap at the rear tire for a few reasons. I'm much more likely to drop the cab onto a rock after the front tire goes over it. THe sheetmetal on the bed is easier to repair/cut off. Puttin the rail farther back would have made it more likely for me to catch the end of it on a rock, and get hung up. http://nsjames.net/comanche/DSCF0500.JPG http://nsjames.net/comanche/DSCF0501.JPG

78" is the right length for a LWB if that's what you got. My rock rails were made form a set that looks a lot like those.