87manche

some people don't like the Renix engine management. personally I think they should have kept it, it's simple and bulletproof 2.8's are junk though, and universally regarded as piles.

you could also drop in a 2.5. Not a 4.0, but probably better than the 2.8. 2.5's seem to run forever.

ford 8.8 is a very popular swap, even easier than the TJ, no swaybar or trackbar mounts, just spring perches. 2.5L is a horse, takes a lot to kill it. When checking for rust the popular areas are cab corners and floorpans. I'd poke the floorpan with a screwdriver from underneath before I bought it.

Rode shotgun with an XJ, but I went to pickup parts mostly. There's a set of axles from a 97, full steering stuff, an AW4 with 242 attached, and a full Detroit sitting on the passenger seat in the truck right now.

sweet. Take all the useful parts and then scrap the old one.

that's crazy cool, I just wonder about the materials used to seal the sliding bits to the cam. If it can be made durable enough then it will be revolutionary, but until one of thsoe can go 249K miles like my I6 then it's not gonna make it.

no doubt, I've found that it's very vulnerable.

disco has a stronger UCA mount I believe. It does have the disadvantage of the possibility of bending where the CAD motor is. Of course who's to say that what bent a CAD tube wouldn't bend a non-cad tube.

ok, well, I've got an AX-15. and I know that the AW4 is a similar length. My X-member is already at the aft set of holes.

I'll toss my ring into the drove for a day without a clutch. wakeman to ashland, on freakin country roads. Turning off the truck to stop at a stopsign sucks, and I'm sure my starter didn't appreciate it.

I think Detour is working on that, I saw a picture of one of his MJ bumpers and it was awesome, plating over the rear quarter.

I've not got a whole donor jeep, so I may have to source one locally. I've got an AX-15, hopefully they're close enough to make it work. If not, I'll set the selector to 2WD until I get the right linkage. So, just to clarify, you swapped an auto into a std truck and did not move the x-member?

from my understanding the AX-15 of any flavor has sintered bronze syncros, and the sulfur in GL-5 oil eats them. SOmething about a mis-print in the manual that stated to use GL-5.

mine were made/modified out of those with PInch seam attachment and 4 legs. Mine are the 78" variety because I'm a LWB. If you've got a SWB then check out Mark are www.detoursusa.com Mine were made as a special order by Brian here: www.cherokee-nation.com Pics of mine. These two are very big http://nsjames.net/comanche/DSCF0500.JPG http://nsjames.net/comanche/DSCF0501.JPG

no luck in recovery then?

Cabz, I've got a few quesions for you as I'm getting an AW4 242 combo to put in the MJ. Trans crossmember the same? Does it have to be moved? I realize the trans mount will be different. Pilot bushing bearing? Does the auto have one or does the snub snout on the TC just plug into the crank. The trans combo is from a renix era Jeep, 88 or 89, so it has the proper flex pate and all. I will be getting the "TV" cable that goes to the throttle body and the shifter/bezel. I will not be dong the TCU, my AW4 is going to be completely manually contolled. I'm lazy and hate wiring harnesses, and I'm an electronics dork that wants paddle shifters. Does the AW4 have a wiring pigtail on it, or does it have a plug in the side? If it's got a pigtail I'm all set, I can just graft into it, if it's just a plug I would appreciate some info on it, so I can source a male one to build my custom harness into. Pictures would be great!! Thanks.

ATF is much too thin, don't do that. Any GL-3 rated 75-90W oil will do the job. Don't use GL-5, the sulphurs in the oil eat up the different metals in the trans. Redline is recommened to help with cold shifting issues.

don't think you can. Looks like that's a preview before you buy kinda thing. :mad:

well, if that's the case fix it, you already got a junkyard head! You should be abe to do that in an afternoon, so the subdivision nazis shouldn't go all insane on you.

CPS. If the CPS goes bad you will have no spark. Have fun replacing it. Gonna need a few wobble joints, and about 2 feet of extensions. Don't drop the bolts into the bellhousing. Good luck.

If it starts, stays running, and goes into gear :evil: Its all good :thumbsup: BTW welcome It's fine then!

probably the same reason mine are missing, it's been repainted.

mine sounds like a tractor, I keep telling myself it's fine.

I think that's BrettM's rig. He's the AWshifting guy

I'll get the stock ones from this 90 we're parting out. If they're not rusting away, your's for shipping. Going to try and get to taht tomorrow or sunday, have you an answer then.