87manche

I will second the bad ground. I had two of them. Made the dash indicator light up anytime the parking lights were on. Also made my hazards not work correctly. Replacement sockets are about $3 at the parts store.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83269

mine says AMC :) And yes it's a Jeep. Ask them how they like those wranglers when they're staring at a near vertical hill climb. Wheelbase is cool :)

the function is usually to hang larger tires. a D44/d30 combo is really only good to 33's in stock form, 35's if you get chromo stuff. Then you've got to worry about the ring and pinion being the weak link. Axles from a 3/4 ton truck however can hold 35's stock, and with some upgrades the sky's the limit. Full width axles generally have bigger brakes that come along with them, and that's something you need when you put 35" tires on.

here's the rear I built out of channel. It's ugly, but it's stout. Th dring tabs go all the way through the face and are part of the mount, so any tugs get transfereed right to the frame. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... t=bootyfab

it needs to tie into the frame past the factory 6 bolts. Tieing in the steering box bolts is popular. See if you can't find some pictures of Cherokee front bumper mounting plates, they're the same up front. Out back it's pretty simple since you have real frame rails to tie into. My rear bumper uses 8 bolts to the frame.

they're piece of the unibody. You have to cut them completely then wld new pieces in. If you're considering wheeling your truck then might as well replace them with rock sliders. www.madxj.com there's 3 writeups there.

the key word in that post is BLOCKING, never hand sand, your hands aren't flat, and you'll get a wavy finish.

that man's probably right. Prepping is almost more important to the final finish than paint. Paint hides nothing, just remember that.

That's about it, I wouldn't start with 80 unless it was really rouch. If you're painting just because the current paint is faded I'd start at 120 to get through the oxidation, then sand until I hit 400, using progresively finer papers. Final sanding would be a wet sand, then clean it up and shoot it. If you want to have it done cheaply then find a local JVS to do it. They'll usually prep and paint it for just the cost of materials. It won't be a perfect paint job, but you can't argue with free labor :)

I think it would be. Mine are bolted into the pinch seam and there is 0 flex at the rails when using a jack or jumping up and down on them. I also noticed that it seemed to stiffen the entire truck. Some of my creaks and groans went away in the cab.

I added to te suspension section. And I added comancheclub to the external links section.

any plans to tie it into the cab pinch seam?

pretty sure they bolt right up.

yes, you'll need to change the fenders. The new fenders have the side marker lights in them. They're also shaped a bit different.

Is it going to be further accented with shag carpet and rope lights? :D

\ Fixed it for you. :D I've proven I don't need a clutch or even fluid in the tranny to drive. :nuts:

I kept the d35 because I don't plan on going over 31" tires anytime soon. As this is still a DD I wasn't going to lift it 6" and then have to sort out the steering and everything else that comes at that height. Once I find something else to drive it will get an 8.8 and SOA with 6" coils to match up front. Hopefully by that time I can go with some sort of high steer, maybe with WJ knuckles. I do like the 3.73's on the road though, My mileage has improved, I've gotten 25 MPG on the highway, and that was cruising at an indicated 75. I've not yet corrected my speedometer, so that's probably about 67-70. RPms at that speed are a touch over 2K.

It's had body work done above the wheel wells on the bed sides. it's been repainted. I hope to fix what little surface rust I have and then put it back to black, like what it came from the factory with. Black Comanches are tough.

I got a line on one with 70K miles on it for 200 around Columbus. No bellhousing, and I need to check the spline count/shaft length. I may get it and then just get a new input gear for my 231.

So, I'm sure this isn't going to be the last incarnation of my MJ, Eventually I think I'm going SOA with an 8.8 I came across a great deal on the lift kit used with shocks. Same story with the axles, unfortunately it's still a d35, but for $300 front and rear axles with a detroit out back it seemed a good upgrade. Axles are geared 3.73, again, not ideal, but better than my factory 3.07's. Front axle is from a 97, so 297 sized u-joints. Rear is a non-c clip D35 with a full carrier detroit. New brakes all the way round. I learned to do gear setup myself with the help of a friend. :banana: So now it's 3" and geared 3.73 with 31's. Next on my list are some proper MT tires, I've already got a set of 5 steel stockers, so I will have street tires and trail tires, it's still my DD. Pics: Before: Old and busted front axle. Skyjacker lift had new LCA's, those had to be cut out as the bolts were seized in the bushings. old rear axle, nothing to see here. Wicked wheel well gap, it's settled a bit since then. Leaf pack was too tight to flex very well. The shiny new bolt is actually a new stud for the upper shock mount. The impact gun broke off the orginal. Midwest locktite got to it. And here's what it looks like right now: like I said, new tires and I'll be set. JKS discos are installed up front, so I'm going to try and get out to test flex and see where to set my bumpstops. I put YJ brake lines up front, and an extended truck brakehose out rear. Don't ask me what it's from, the parts guy matched up the fittings and handed it to me. it's about 3" longer, so it's a good fit.[/img]

You'll be happy to know I'm gona keep my 5Spd jeff.

are the SS lines DOT approved? I'm not a big believer in the SS lines for some reason, they're still rubber on the inside right? I guess I just like the rubber ones for some reason. Convince me otherwise.

I've got a skyjacker kit that I bought used for cheap. it's a full length AAl in the rear and 3" coild up front. It had a trackbar relocation bracket, but I drilled a new hole in the axle side of the mount. It didn't account for the swaybar, so I used some JKS discos. It also didn't account for the brake lines, so I used YJ front brake lines. I can't tell you what the rear brake line is, the guy at the parts store grabbed it and told me that's what he had on his MJ :) it was 2-3" longer. One from a dakota pickup truck will work in the rear, but they didn't have that one in stock.

I'll measure for you, I've got a d35 that was just taken out of the Mj sitting in the drive.