87manche

Thanks for that tip, I'm so doing that when it comes time to rattle can my MJ. Thinking something like the original hockey stick pioneer stripes as the ghost black :) My homage to AMC.

check the TPS, if the TCU get's the wrong throttle input (like it thinks you floored it) then it will downshift.

search m715 on ebay, you'll find a front and rear set for like $200. Rear was missing gears, but that's still crazy. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/m715-fro ... dZViewItem too bad they're in Idaho. I wish I could find a decent whole 715, I would wheel the hell out of it relatively stock. Not gonna break them axles :)

black primer. all the cool hotrod kids are doing it. plus you can use it as a chalkboard when you're measuring things and modifying :)

this one? http://www.hesco.us/customergallery.asp ... rdID=90227 site says it was a blown 4.9 BTW :eek:

I find things to drag it on :) I bashed it a bit at Winterfest at the Badlands, and it took another good beating in uwharrie, as I was taking the stupid lines :) Had to see what having a detroit was all about. lockers are good.

I still have that roll pan, it's sitting under a tarp outside.

I'm not sure how you would accomplish a variable rear end. There are quickchange rear ends, but I'm not sure how it would be possible to change the ratio on the fly.

high steer is next on my list, sliders are friendly, by far the best $70 I ever spent was the t-case skid. That thing is beat up.

regger: I didn't have any problems moving my MJ brakes over to the XJ axle, but they were both non-c clip. I wonder if that's the difference. I took my backing plates and drums over with all new hardware on the inside.

you say new dist, did you index it when you installed it? a dist a tooth off will usualy idle fine, then run poorly as you get higher into the RPMs

the Mj is XJ from the front doors forward. Aft of the cab is where parts get really hard to find. Make sure you get a LWB gas tank, it is a different size and mount from the SWB tank. My LWB tank is 23 gallons or there abouts.

rusty's is making a 4.5" leaf pack for the rear. Ask CW about it, he's got it under his deal with 33's i think.

I wonder how many here will understand the reference to the handy man's secret weapon? :brows: :rotf: :yes: red green is my hero. they used to play it on PBS all the time. same with red dwarf.

man you came all the way down here and didn't post up, you probably drove right by my town. I woulda bought you lunch.

some police xj's had column shifters, it was an option on the XJ, it was just much more popular in the MJ. I'm pretty sure that there's nothing in the bottom of the tach, might be worth taking a dremel to it and making it fit. Or using the big gas gauges backing and using one of the guage pdf's out there to make a new face for it.

it's a roll pin, it wil be tight, keep beating on it. I suggestthat you go and get a drift of the same size as the pin, or a small bolt can be used in a pinch.

whoever told you that 10-30 was similar to 75-90 had one thing right, they're both oil, and that's about it. 75-90w is much much thincker than 10-30. Think of 10-30 as water, and 75-90w as molasses.

bearings would be rough or the vanes would be gone. Second the pipe wrench, or you can source brass replacements at the hardware store

I just did this swap a few months ago. It's as simple as measuring and welding on the perches. I was lucky enough to have a spare Mj axle to take measurements from. The easiest way to do it is to pull the original, and set it on jackstands. Pull the differential cover and make sure that the face is plumb. This gives you a reference point for making the same measurements on the new axle. Get a magnetic angle finder and measure the angle of the perches. You'll also need the location of the perches on the tubes. Setup the new axle with the face plumb and setup your new perches in the same place as the old and at the same angle with your angle finder. Weld perches on. Percheas can be made out of some 2x4 box, I simply ordered the mopar performance ones from the Jeep dealer, but I don't know if that's an option fo you.

75-90W GL3 oil. not GL-5 that's rated as a three. Get the GL-3 from the dealer or Redline. GL-5 oil has a lot of sulphur in it, and it eats the syncros. Redline MT-90 is great, it's about $11 a quart though. Look for it at your local speed shop or order it from summit.

good to see you Woody. Hope you make it back alright. I can't imagine that humvees are too terribly capable in sand, far too heavy. Anyway, I would go and do the entire vacuum harness, because it's 20 years old and sucks, and I would upgrade the battery cables, again, 20 years old and undersized to start with.

I can't imagine that the actual cluster plastic is different. I would see about moving the guages from the JY cluster to your cluster. That way you could keep your ODO with the correct miles.

what axles? if the pinion depth is different you may need a shortened or lengthened driveshaft, off course that depends if you're lifting at the same time. More details please. If it's the same axles then you'll just need to measure the perches out and center the axle, weld perches and bolt it up.

the key with those systems is to get one with an EGT. EGT is crucial on a diesel, and if it get's too hot you'll do damage. Most of the better systems have you put in an EGT probe, and you can monitor it, the ECU should defuel the motor if the EGT get's too high.