87manche

this would be whta happens when the pinion nut comes loose.

I built my rig in this order. Tow points-Definitly the first priority. Armor-Min'es long wheelbase, my breakover sucks, and my rockers and t-case were vulnerable Lift and axleswap were done at the same time. Axleswap was for lower gears. If I hadn't scored new axles I would have lifted and then regeared. Locker went in the new axles. Detroit carrier I saw tow points and armor as the primary needs on my rig. You can have a lot of fun wheeling stock, but tow points are a must, and it's nice not to worry about a rock going into the t-case

for the most part. You can reuse the BA 10 clutch hose. You'll need an AX-15 complete with bellhousing and all of the parts inside. IIRC there's a differnce in the pilot bearing, and you'll have to move the trans x-member back. I believe that the Drive shafts are going to be different lengths.

yep, and you can find a Ford 8.8 out of an exploder cheaper/easier and get rear disc brakes with some minor modifications. I've got two here, with brackets.

that's real clean. :cheers:

http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... dSeals.htm You have to pull the seal out, so you'll have to pop the diff cover and take out the axle shaft so you can do soemthing similar to that.

I think he's talking about the block side. I think that they're 3/8x1 coarse thread

I went the detroit route. Freaks people out at the gas station when they here "click click click" from the rear end.

There is no bearing between the unit bearing and the carrier bearing. There is a seal Here's a link to taking the shaft out. http://web.archive.org/web/200407240216 ... elBearing/ Here's a link to an exploded view with part numbers. http://www.billhughes.com/dana30/

unless someone has swapped the front axle you have a dana 30. The bearing is a unitized setup, it comes off with 3 13MM 12point bolts from the back of the knuckle. The axle stub nut does not have to come off, but it makes it easier. IT is a 36MM nut, and needs to be retorqued to 180 Ft Lbs. the 13MM bolts get torqued to 70 Ft Lbs I think. the D 30 is semi-float, pull the bearing and the shaft will come right out. I don't have an answer regarding the balljoints.

also make sure that you don't have any sharp kinks in it.

sure it can be done. Where do you want to put it? Lot's of people have put extra guagues in to the plate where the clock normally would live.

damn! Yours were on tight! Original perhaps? Mine had been changed, the nuts were loose, explains why I had to replace bearings. New ones got torqued to spec, I hope I have an impact to get them off when the time comes.

I have a 36" breaker bar and a 1/2 drive impact socket for those. I will eventually upgrade to air. Impact, or a really big breaker bar

all comanches are unibody. They share a front end with the cherokee. All the drivetrain stuff is the same as a cherokee. Likely for your 4WD conversion you can find an XJ that's been wrecked or has a blown motor for cheap and take all the parts from that. You will need. 4WD trans/tcase combo front axle linkages center console bezels some misc. wiring to make the 4wd indicator light work. That's the short rundown.

the escort's good for another few years. Mine was golden mechanically, but the body was falling apart.

well that's a b*@$£. You might want to see if you can solder something to it. I would recommend drilling as a last resort. If you do drill, be careful to get the drill perfectly perpendicular. I would drill slow and use some oil, that will help bring the shavings up so you can clean them and keep most of it from falling into the water jacket. Start small, and work your way up. IIRC the temp sender is screwed into a 3/8" NPT hole. I wouldn't go any larger than 5/16 on the drill bit or you'll risk damaging the threads. How did it get broken off? was it levered off while working next to it, or twisted off trying to remove it. Just trying to guage if it's stuck badly. If it's really stuck badly you may have to remove the head to remove it. A few things to keep in mind. If it's not leaking then drive it as is, and plan your removal time when you have help, in case you have to pull the head, and have time. I wouldn't try an easy out in the temp sender, if you're tempted. If you break it off then you'll really be screwed, they're made of hardened steel like a tap, and nearly impossible to drill out. You may also want to get the proper tap before you start. an NPT tap is different than a regular tap, if you cna't find it call a plumbing supply place. It's always a good idea to chase threads after you drill something out. i've tried to be as thorough as possible. I hope someone else has a better idea. Good luck.

Drilling will likely get a buch of nasty stuff into the head. You're not going to be able to weld anything to it. How far is it broken off? Is there anything above the head?

I certainly hope a refund is in order.

I've got the skyjacker hydros, they're not bad, better than the monroe's that came off it.

I left my keys in the house on my way to the hardware the other day. I just started it with a penny from the coin tray :) Key's are optional.

The cost difference between adjustables and fixed is what $100? I'd do it, just because you'll be able to fine tune your caster and your pinion angle. The stock LCA's suck, and I've seen them fold up when hit with a rock. I've got new LCA's on my 3" lift, tube style. it also eliminated my tire rub with 10.5 tires and stock rims.

I'll probably be doing a stroker/ I've got a spare block and head. Get myself the parts to do a regular rebuild and a 258 crank. I was going to rebuild it anyway, so the added cost of stroking it is not a big deal.

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/ have fun.

not really, it is upside down though. it's just a clip that slides over the frame and into a recess. Look at the frame for the recess and you'll know how big a clip to find. it pivots and it's spring loaded.