87manche

I can't attest to the bumper, but if you do a 97+ grill you have to do the header panel and the fenders.

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html

I think so, I know a fella with a newer TJ that took a HP D30 out of a 98 XJ and it bolted right up. TJ's usually come with different gear ratios though, so you're gonna want to check that.

so it was snowboard247 http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/2005/0 ... -info.html there ya go./

I've got a blog bookmarked on my home PC that has all the wiring info for all the years. It was spot on for my 87 stereo install. I'll post up the link later if I can't find it on google. I rememer that te bog was dothedew247 and it was at blogspot.com

I'm going to concur with parts MJ, and the strain on the trans or mis allignment of the shifter is causing your problems. Check all engine and trans mounts.

My speedo ounced around after I took the guage cluster out. fixed it by taking the cluster out and pulling more of the speedo cable up out of the dash. Apparently wen I put it back together the first time I had pushed the cable down a bit and it wasn't fully engaging or something to that effect. Anyway, I'd pull it up a bit and lube it.

I'll let you know what my gas mileage does in the next week. I'm going from 3.07's to 3.73s memorial day weekend.

check out treadlightly and UFWDA websites. Also, you might want to look at the oppositions points so you can work up counter points to their most common rallying points.

A little piece of me just died.

and this is why you don't pull the ebrake on an old vehicle that's been sitting for a long time. I had to do this once on a 73 super beetle. spray the cable down with penetrating oil where it goes into the drum, sometimes the cable just get's hung up. After you hose it down let it sit a while, then try to get the cable free at the adjuster. Since it's sheathed you can't really do much with it. The other option, and the one that worked for me and the Beetle: Put it on jackstands, take off a wheel and start working to get the drum off. This is a Royal PITA if the ebrake is locked. Don't pryon on the drum, you'll likely damage the backing plate. In my case it took some well placed sledgehammer blows before the pads popped back into place. I did end up destroying the drum in the process. If you're going that far I would just suggest you buy new hardware, drums and shoes. That way everything outside of the brake drum backing plate can be sacrificed, besides, if the e-brake made the shoes stick the hardware's probably shot.

I'm not sure on this, but isn't the 2WD trans gonna have a tailcone with a slip yoke? What work is entailed to change that on a puegout. I know it's major surgery on an AX-15.

outside or inside? lots of people have done the lower 3rd. I'm going to be doing it soon as part of some cab corner/door rust repair. A few have also done the inside. I'll likely do that also, the rubber mat needs to go. it's all about rust proofing. Search on www.xjdb.com for pictures.

I vote chop it, cage it and put a soft top on it, 715 style :) That really sucks, and it sucks even more that the insurance company is trying to shaft you. DO you have any receipts for the tires or anything else to prove it's worth more than blue book? Hell, they need to just look at the going rate, I paid $1500 for my clean 87, and that was stock.

Also I'd check the intake manifold for leaks, as it warms up it expands, and a leaky manifol gasket is a major vacuum leak.

I think you're definitly on the more extreme edge of driving, so your experience with broken shafts is expected. :cheers: I know a few people running lockrights in front dana 30s on stock shafts that don't have too much trouble. I was in a XJ at redbird locked f/r with lockrights, stock shafts on 33's. He did have the 8.25 in the rear though. His Dana 30 has held up fine, and we did beat on it a bit to get up some nasty hillclimbs.

I believe that most of that came from Jeep frum, and quite a bit was wrong there too. I think that the Comanche page is summitlt's.

sounds to me like the throttle plate isn't closing all the way, or the IAC got muckered up somehow.

Peter already wrote that! what are you smokin? ...BOB well, it was some good stuff apparently.

could it be the exhuast hitting on the trans x-member?

I've got an AW4 sitting in the garage. It's all electical, the only thing that looks remotely like a vac tube is the vent line. That trans has a 242 behind it, and the t-case doesn't have any vacuum lines.

you just sealed the fate on mine. I had already forgotten to put my drivers side back on after my wheelbearing nightmare. That's what happens when you do a wheelbearing at 2AM. Looks like the new D30 isn't getting them at all.

front sway bar bushing maybe, if you've still got one of those.

I'm doing this right now, get out the grinder.

OK, so I know that everyone has seen the photos of that RC comanceh that's painted blue. I thought that it was just a custom body. I found the website by chance today, it's friggin amazing. This guy built his own transmission/tcase and frame. And he 3 linked a custom suspension, it's amazing. He's got lots of photos and videos on the last page. http://f17.aaa.livedoor.jp/~toshimi/RC_ ... che_1.html