87manche

check the vac hose that runs under the battery to the vacuum ball in the bumper. That's the one that did it for me, and whereit's located seems to make it pretty vulnerable.

just an excuse to make the doors removable.

I knew you'd catch on.

and the ricers think we're crazy for driving something that's big, slow and get's horrible gas mileage. why can't we all just get along?

big pipe wrench?

I love the ten spokes. Mine are painted silver since the alloy got nasty after 20 years. It loosk fine though, hell my mom's VW came from the factory with painted alloys. Makes cleaning them a snap if you keep them well waxed, brake dust just washes right off. I'm thinking of painting the insets of the spokes black when I do my rust repair and pain the bottom third with herculiner. I think it will tie it all together nicely. Probably paint the insets black, and then do the raised sections of the outer rim. So I'll have silver spokes and a nice silver ring around them. Of course if I don't like it I can always sand them down and paint them silver again.

When the botom rear of my edget's nasty that's what I plan. Angled plate that extends from my bumper forward and is attached to the frame rail just aft of the wheelwell.

Ok, warm the motor until the thermostat opens. Then turn off the motor. Feel the surface of the radiator. It should be warm top to bottom. If the top is warm and the bottom cold then it's likely the bottom pasages are filled with crud and blocked. The other possibility is that your water pump is worn and not moving enough fluid. Did the 2.5 have the same closed cooling system the 4.0 did? If so then make sure the "turtle" coolant bottle is sealing properly. Not holding pressure will lead to boilovers.

lots of space between the buckets.

cw, I can get you some MJ bench seat brackets if that would be helpful.

she cleaned up well. Like them new rock rails.

pull the yelow box apart and see if there's any obvious burns. Also, the motor on the throttle body is vacuum controlled. Look into that also.

I know skyjacker has a 3" long AAL, I've got one. I second petes recomendation. You will need to relocate the front brake lines. Unbolt the bracket that holds it to the body, then bend it down a bit and re attach. You should probably look at the rear line too, and get a replacement if it's not long enough.

yeah, that takes som balls to go wheel a $30K Jeep. Rock on. I'll throw up the horns for that. \m/

those look like the tnt u-bolt eliminators. They still use the leaf spring centering screw, just like the regular perches. http://tntcustoms.com/webV3/ubolteliminators.asp

you'll still have to move the perches. The distance between them isn't right, the springs won't sit on them proper. Making sure that you know you'll have to weld perches no matter what.

indie, classic rock, blues, old hip hop, a bit o country. Yeah I'm all over the freakin map. Having satellite radio does that to your listening habits.

j20=badass do it. I want a j-truck for a tow rig so bad.

I think that the TCU harness in the cab is needed. I think you also need a different ECU. Might want to look into making a manumatic. http://awshifting.com/

not directly related to the logo, but MSpaint must be a nightmare. Try this. http://www.gimpshop.net/ free photo editing software that's pretty powerful. Compare it to photoshop. That way you could put the color on a layer and change it real easy.

a 90 with an auto trans uses a 21 spline input gear on the T-case. If you look around the junkyards for an 87-90 cherokee with the matching t-case (probably an np-231) you can probably find a good used one for fairly cheap. if you get parts lined up and you can verify that it is the T-case itself then I would buy it and repair it. It's not too tough to swap out a t-case. It shouldn't even be that much if you paid to have it done. Call the local mechanics and find out labor rates

I did that repair on my escort. Won't take long. I would recommend a resistive soldering iron. Like a "cold heat" style. A traditional soldering iron will destroy the thermal fuse if left in place too long. The other option is to put a heatsink between the thermal fuse and the conection your soldering.

you know I never really had to tear into my Escort. The damend thing just kept running. I would have kept itfor a DD but it had an extensive list of repairs that it needed. all those OH winters had taken it's toll on the body too, motor likely would have fallen out before it quit running.

is that your escort Jeff? If it slips when cold I would't worry about that. Mine would slip in the winter and be fine when it warmed up. Ran like that for 50K miles.

drive in reverse? :D Anyway, sounds like the TC is good since you've got reverse. Not having all of the forward gears would make me think it's a mechanical thing related to the linkage, or the valve body is shot, or the forward clutch packs are toast. Take your pick. Didn't you just replace that trans not too long ago?