87manche
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Everything posted by 87manche
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Apparently I need some sort of exhaust system.
87manche replied to DirtyComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'd definityl check out some big rig places. Seems certain they'd have the mounts -
that certainly looks like it. I'm gonna have to see if that 90 being parted still has it's deal there.
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you shamed me into searching http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ight=rails
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to go off topic, My rails were originally intended for a Yota truck, they're 78 inches long and have four standoffs and pinch seam mounting. There's some pictures around here somewhere. I know they're oin NAXJA.
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how to bootyfab a rear bumper
87manche replied to mjeff87's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
didn't yours have rails that went up to the wheelwell? Jeff's rear quarters are shorter, probably needs to cut a bit of the "wings" off your bumper pat. -
that's what I needed to know. I'll go yarding and find the stock lug wrench and jack handle from an XJ.
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how to bootyfab a rear bumper
87manche replied to mjeff87's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
at least you painted the wood. Here's mine http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78285 -
if I could help ya out, then I would. I guess depending on what kind of shape the body is in is the deciding factor.
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sweet. Sounds like I"m just going to make one. A few pieces of flat bar stock and I'll be all set.
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hmm, that's exactly what mine looks like. I thought the crimp in the tube was from a PO doing what I did with vise grips. Thanks for the pic. So Let me rephrase my question. Does anyone have a pic of what goes in the tube to make it work? I assume a stock jack handle. Will one from an XJ work?
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likely the bore will be fine. I know that on the 1.6 block I had the friggin cylinder liners were uber thick, like 1/4" and the piston was aluminum. When I popped the hole through mine it ran fine after I put a new piston in it. I gave it back to my brother, then he sold it to a buddy for a commuter car, still goin strong after 2 years. Looking back I shoulda kept it, freakin 1.6 and a 5 speed, thing got lik 40 on the highway :headpop:
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So, since my truck had that roll pan on it, the spare tire winch hadn't been used. I took it all apart and repaired/greased it. It works fine now, but I think a PO has cut the end of the tube where you put the jack in to operate the winch. I had to crank up the spare tire laying on my back and using a pair of vise grips on the tube. Can anyone take a picture of what their spare tire winch looks like right under the bed. I just want to know what I need to make. I'm not looking forward to ever getting the tire back down if I have to lay on the ground, and you know it will be raining, cause flat tires don't happen in nice weather.
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Sounds like what happened to my 88 323. Same engine practically. I burned a hole in the top of a piston. Honestly, that engine is so simple to take apart you should fix it. I dropped the pan and took off the head of my 1.6 while it was in the car and pulled the piston that I had scorched. The wrist pins are pressed in, so you'll have to take the new piston and connecting rod to a machine shop. Had them put a new piston on that rod, put it back together. I didn't even re-ring the other pistons, or do any other rod bearings. Might as well do the water pump while you're in there, since the timing belt is a b*@$£. That was the first engine I had ever taken apart, didn't have anything other than the import chilton's from the library. Did you blow the oil filter? That's what happened when I burnt my piston, apparently my timing was about 20* too advanced. ran real good though :evil:
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I've got all the measurements from my LWB when I built my bumper. If you search on NAxja under my name you'll find them in te picture showcase. I wish it was as sexy as yours, but it works. The rocker measurements aren't there, but I can get those. Probably won't be till tomorrow,I'm doing wife work tonight.
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my neighbor, an old time heavy equipment mechanic, has always sprayed motor oil in under the bedliner. He does it twice a year. once before the salt season, then he cleans it out and reoils it in the spring. I've never seen his bed rust out, and I grew up next door.
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I think people that say shackles kill springs aren't adjusting the bumpstops after they shackle lift. Longer shackles will allow you to invert the springs, and THAT will kill them. Match your bumpstops to your spring travel and I htink it makes little or no difference.
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torque wrench is your friend when putting things into aluminum.
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Need tips on painting new bumper
87manche replied to attaboybob's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
make sure you clean it real well, it's likely that it will come with some nasty scale and oil on it. If it's bare metal you may want to get some metal ready or similar metal prep. It etches the metal and makes it very receptive to paint. I'd recommend priming before final coat. not only will it make your final finish look better, but primer will make the paint stick much better. Make sure your painting area is clean, and you have proper ventilation. The key is keeping dust down, if doing it outside you may want to spry the area lightly with water. Many light costs will look better than one heavy coat. -
eagle is in ct
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What are you planning to replace it with? (say hi to Rocky) ...BOB bought an AW4/242 combo from Mark. Along with some better geared axles. He's got a freakin junkyard over there. I've got a prototype for my own electronic paddel shifter. Working on mounting it to the steering wheel. The MJ's gonna be the coolest kid on the block with a paddle shifted auto.
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that totaly blows man, your's was the cleanest orginal MJ I'd ever seen.
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I'll have an AX-15 231 combo available in the coming months. There's some bearing noise, be good for a core on a rebuilt one, or a good candidate to rebuild yourself.
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I had bad grounds in the sockets up front. The simple test to see if that's it is this: Take the bulb out. Take the gasket off from the socket. Jam a piece of stranded copper wire down that hole on the side. That's the ground part of the socket. once you take it apart you'll see why it's not a great design. Worked the wire back and forth a few times to grind off the corrosion. A liberal application of contact cleaner may also help. it's made so that when there's not bulb in there the ground disconnects, but it's very prone to corrosion. I just left the piece of wire in there and it's been fine for me. just excersise more caustion when working with the front bulb sockets, as they now have a ground even with the bulb removed.
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you're pretty much on your won then DOn't know anything about that there Chebby motor.
