87manche

if that tightened up the steering then I would suspect he has some slop elsewhere. Perhaps the steering geometry is not perfect and he had wicked bumpsteer? Another stabilizer would help with that.

everything can be clearanced with a sawzall :)

why?

I almost forgot, when you pull the pushrods keep them in order. It is very important that they go back in the same bore they came out of. Do the same for the rockers if you take them off to clean them.

ok, sounds like you're lining up a good bit of downtime. If I were you this is how I would do it. Take the grill and header panel out. Pope the upper rad supprt and take out the rad. Leave the gaping hole in the front, lots more room to work and get under the manifolds. If you can get someone to help *highly recommended) pull the head with the manifolds attached. You'l have to pull the PS pump bracket I believe, as it's bolted to the intake. Take the intake and exhaust manifold off while it's on the bench. You'll need new gaskets. While you're at it source some brass or bronze hardware for when you put it back together, they don't gall like the steel does. Back on track, while you've got the head off you might want to consider aving some machine work done. At the very least have it check to make sure it's flat, and if not, have it decked. Inspect all the valve seats and guides while its out. Might even want to have it tanked. I'd suggest you get some new headbolts, you're not techinically supposed to reuse those, as they stretch. At the very least paint the heads yellow or white, so you know they have to be replaced the nexttime anyone does this. I'd also suggest putting the head back in the jeep with manifolds attached. Again, it's almost mandatory to have hepl here, as the head/manifold combo is quite weighty. If you have to do it yourself you'll curse putting the manifolds on while in the truck.

girs, Have you called Milliron? They got a stack of 8.8s, not sure what elese they've got, but I knw that they sell just the calipers off axles, they may do the backing plates seperate.

I know that people have run the Renix system with propane. So you don't have to go carb. I don't know much more than that.

I dopn't think so. Mj springs are under the frame rail, XJ springs are on the side of the unibody, outboard.

you can use just the resin to coat the paper board to strengthen it's integrity, it would still be plyable. Depending on what resin you use you can make fiberglass parts that will still bend. Look into finishing resins.

that would be good for a truck stop fix, but I prefer to just replace it all and not worry about the section 6 inches from the new "repair" breaking in another 15 miles.

check novak adapters. I know they have an adapter to mate the AX-15 behind a SBC.

Ho alts will not work. They are externally regulated by the ECU. look here for upgraded rebuilt alts in stock cases http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/sjg.html

the last six digits of your VIN, that's you MJ's serial number from the factory

agreed on the above points. It's one less line to worry about, and the less failure points you have the better.

mopar performance perches. Available at your local dealership. $8 a PAIR. They're beefy, meant for the musclecar group, larger than the stock d35 perches. PN DCC-4120074

Personally, I'd like an extended. No space for crap in a single, IMO. x a gajillion. I'm always hunting for space in the MJ.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-Isuzu ... dZViewItem too bad that ones so far away, a diesel trooper I could get down with.

Yes, but have you tried finding an izsuzu Pup diesel? MWC 4 Life yo.,

just to throw my hat into the ring, as I too need a new headliner. At lowes, near the pegboard they sell the "fiberboard" I was going to make a factory replacement out of that. I saw one in the yard and it was most certainly not fiberglass, but something like a pressed cardboard. Anyway, Lowes has pegboard without holes, in a thickness that seemed to mach the one I saw in the yard. Too bad that one was destryoed too, or I would have grabbed it. Eagle is correct about the fabric at Jo Ane fabrics, it even has that foam backer on it.

I"m probably going to do the doors just because I wan one piece glass. I might even got power windows and locks. oooooooo

it won't blow up :) I was more concerned with the torque specs and the load applied to the manifold.

I believe that DC was talking about the 0 weight viscosity properties when it's cold. That stuff pours like water. I wouldn't trust it in a 4.0. I'll stick to 10W40 and pay the .00005% mileage penalty for good oil pressure.

Smart man. :D well, I payed $300 for a D30/D35 combo geared 3.73. I did it mostly for the D30, cause it was non disco with 297 u-joints, and it was going to cost that much in parts to make my original d30 not suck. I got the full case detroit as part of the deal, so that's how I ended up with another turdy five.

I've got 3.73's, so it will still suck, but not as much as 3.07's. 3.73's with 31's is about stock ratio. so 32's or 33's is like going from stock to 31's. I plan on doing an 8.8 or something similar next year, so the clutch is just gonna have to man up, becaue I'm not dumping any money into the 35 for gears.

Bed? I don't have a bed, but I do have strorage for a spare truck's worth of parts. :D fixed it