87manche

could be worse, I've got 97 unit bearings, 97 rotors and 90 calipers :nuts: functionally the 86 axle should be the same. it may have CV joints that suck, but you can replace those with the inners and outers for u-joints. You might even be able to use the ones from the wrecked axle if they're not damaged.

I've got those wheels with a 31x10.5 under the bed. It will fit with no problems, I think I could probably shooehorn a 32 or even 33 under there since i'm a LWB, but like eagle would be concerned with the winch cable giving way. I second Alex there. I need a new center cap, and wouldn't mind having another one for my spare. If you can spare a center cap name your price with shipping to 44805 and I'll get it to you.

where's the leak? Rear main, valve cover? I'd fix the leak on the exising engine and get a front ARB. a locker will get you more places than more power. I seem to wheel just fine with my 260K renix ;)

pull the diff cover, it should be stamped on the ring gear. It will have the teeth numbers, divide to get the ratio like jeff said. It should be 3.55 if that's the case you're lucky, cause that's what XJ's got from the factory with the auto, and the auto/i6 is probably the most popular kid in town.

tat would explain the knuckle damage then, SOunds like the front wheel took most of the impact. Thankfully MJ LCA pockets are definitely overbuilt and they're likely fine. Check them anyway, and check that the LCA isn't bent. As long as it hasn't bent anything in the body I would say fix it. The sheetmetal parts aren't hard to come by if you don't mind mixing colors. Now might be a good time to do a 97+ nose swap since you'd only have to add another fender to it to complete it. Don't limit your donor vehicles to the 96-, the fenders and front clip from a 97+ will bolt on, and it looks good. SAme thing with the axle, front suspension never changed. The only question is gearing, you'l need to find one geared the same as the rear, unless you want to take the gears out of the old one, but that's a real PITA.

I assume that { means the inner c on the axle. If that's bent where it attached to the knuckle you're going shopping for a new D30 up front. finding a beat up donor XJ is probably the best bet. It's likely that if he bent the knuckle it may have also bent the LCA. A hit that hard could have tweaked the unibody too. Do the doors still open and close alright? might wnat to pay somebody the $50 it would take to check the frame for square before finding parts.

probably in the memberlist section.

if you can transport an 8.8 from OH to you I'll sell you one complete with everything but calipers for $150.

to BigD for the LWB cap. Looks good, can't wait to get it cleaned up and painted.

looks like the Mj was the recovery vehicle. Typical, pulling stuck SWB guys out.

the brackets for the accesories are different because of the different intake. If you use your intake it should be drop in. The injectors may also have different plugs on them, easily solved if you use your old injectors, or take a dremel to the plugs in your harness.

try the help section in the auto parts store, I saw a generic e-brake assembly that looked like it could be made to work.

wish that 20 was near me, I'd pick it up in a heartbeat.

I ran stock wheels and suspension with 31x10.5's for a few months. observatons: They rub on the lower control arms at full steering lock, and the other side will rub on the steering skid if you have one. Some solutions: http://stu-offroad.com/steering/stop/steerstop-1.htm Adjust the steering stop Get grand cherokee control arms. Get wheels with less backspacing. The other observations: My 10.5's rub on the frame rail out back when I really work out the suspension. Your auto should have 3.55 gears, so it won't be horrible with 31's. Any larger and I would plan on regearing to get gas mileage and crawl ratio back.

alex, they have a hay/straw acution in ashland every week. Might be worth checking out. I always seem flatbeds loaded with straw leaving.

I like the first one, but I could see slippage at the crank as a problem since you're only engaging about %50 of the pulley.

I've got a skyjacker 3" lonc AAL in the rear of mine. It flexes ok, but I have to run the shackles a little loose to get it to ride decently. It did lift it 3", and it fits 31's nicely.

egg, that inspires me to box then ends of mine in, that's pretty nice. Did you tie the reciever tube into anything under the bed? I was thinking of taking a strap from the end of the tube and bolting it to the "X" under the bed.

I'm wanting to try one TSC has that's similar, it's only around $85. A friend of mines wants one, maybe I can talk him into buying it and just using his. :D 8) Thats what iam waiting on :cheers: I love haveing friends that like to Fab Cole well i have a whole shop. with welders of every kind, plasma cutter, all the little hand tools, and benders plus metal band saws. not to rub anything in or anything like that :D . but if you guys were closer you could come use it but it won't help you that much since you guys are so far away. Alex oh but I'm close enough ;)

I remember discussing this Jeep. It was the one on either 33s or 35s with 4:10s. We couldn't decide if it was actually involved in JeepSpeed cause apparently they don't allow MJs due to their wheelbase. it would make a nice chase/parts vehicle though. I bet that's what it was used for if it actually saw any Jeepspeed events.

no, it won't :) Departure sucks, and if you're going to wheel it you will destroy the lower quarters of the bed. I'm going to copy pat's design and cut the lower quarters off and extend my bumper to make sliders for hte rear.

put in the non-disco axle, then cap all the vacuum lines. It will be fine. Only issue is that you'll lose the part time indicator in the dash.

http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm have fun :)

the AW4 TCU will be under the dash in the XJ, on the passenger side. If you want it to shift like and auto you'll have to grab it and the harness that goes with it. Check in your MJ, seems to be hit or miss as to whether or not the harness is already there. it should plug into the main chassis harness, and into the trans. You'll need the auto TPS, it feeds a seperate signal to the TCU. You might also need the ECU I'm not sure about that. If you want to put in an AW4 and have it shifted manually it's a pretty easy swap. http://stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm Something to look at. if you pony up the cash for brettm's shifter than you can run the trans without chaning any of the wiring in the MJ, you'll just need the XJ shift lever, and it will pop into your center console. You'll need the T-case lever too, so you might as well just pull the XJ center console.

x2 on the piloat bearing/bushing. Especially since a bad one of those will leave the shaft unsupported and eat an input bearing too.