87manche

http://www.flickr.com/photos/74249553@N00/52022165/ there's the whole album. Not any good ones of the wheels.

I have the same rims. 31x10.5s rub at full lock. and I mena only at FULL lock. I can turn the wheel to within and 1/8th of a turn of lock. I plan on just shimming up the adjustments on the axle. As soon as I get them unstuck. I also read about using WJ LCAs, they have a bend in them to clear tires. 1.25" spacer should be enough.

sweet. I wish I had a u pull it here. all the Jy's in my area think what they have is gold.

also, if you could grab the shifter. I know it's probably extra, but mines shot, I can pull it out of the trans while driving. The retaining ring is done, and the ball it pivots on it wallowed out.

that would be awesome! Prices around here range from $250 and up. I can make arrangements to meet you, and pay you for gas. Did you still need that driveshaft? I can go and pull it for you, slip yoke and all. I think the change was made in 94. So a 93 and earlier trans should be a bolt up affair. Looks like I'm keep that internal slave now. Does the u pull it include the bell housing? I don't really need it, I can just reuse mine. I'll put in a new slave cylinder and call it quits.

The torque converter slips to make up for that. To the point you can actually run higher gears than with a 5spd, apparently. I'd a advise a tranny cooler. But I'm a fan of the 3-footed dance, and would only run a slushbox if I had no other (decent) options. yeah, but I didn't want to hose the torque converter. I don't know. I may do it yet. I do love the 3 footed dance myself, and I think that a manual is much better for control. Love to downshift. Of course, with the manual controls I wouldn't loose most of that. Aw hell, I don't know. I hate dealing with trannies.

ok, so I've changed my mind again. The AW-4 only has a 2.8 first gear, with my current axle gearing this just isn't an option. If I already had the 4.10 axles I'd do it in a heartbeat. So it looks like my hunt for an AX-15 before winterfest goes on.

alright, I may be considering the auto swap. If I get the AWshifting kit, because I don't feel like figureing it out myself, that's like $50. I found a trans out of a 90 for $100. Worth it even if it doesn't last, just for the flexplate I need to work with the renix comp. I can always get another one in a year that's newer for $300. Whats involved with the auto swap? Just pull the MT, flywheel and clutch system and stab the new one on? I could wire up the AWshifter and make it a standalone system. Hell, I might build paddle shifters and an LED readout, rally car style. Someone convince me this is easier than locating another AX-15, do it.

on second thought that site says that all AW4's have the short shaft. I may just say F it and go auto. Shame, since I just spent $125 on a new master cyl and clutch hose.

4.0. From what I read on novaks site there were two different lengths to the output shafts. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm there's the page. States that the earlier NP231 has a short input shaft. Sucks. I'm gonna have to take off the t-case and see for myself. But since my 231 has a man date in 89 I'm onna bet it's the short shaft. Which means I'm stuck using an older trans, or I'm changin ou the input gear/whole t-case.

class II class III is 500# TW and 5K# trailer weight.

I did some hardcore research on the AMC 20 a month or so back. I found an 86 MJ with one in a yard that had 4.10 gears. Was going to pick that and it's matching HP30. Anyway. The pinon and ring gear are super strong from what I read. Stronger than a 44 even. What was said above is the word on the street. Tubes like to twist. Most of the FSJ guys are just welding the tubes to the pumpkin, and apparently there's a retrofit/mod that you can do to the keepers to help also. From what I was looking at it's a very good axle if you fix it's little problems. Gear selection was alright, and there's an aussie locker for it available. I'm still going to pick those axles in mind for the future. Too bad that yard thinks they're gold, and wants $600 for the pair.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-199 ... 9416QQrdZ1 Found that a few minutes ago at jeepforum. Get'em while they're hot.

pete, when you did yours did you use your old T-case?

pump ballast resistor? I don't know if you have one of those on a 91. White block in the drivers side interior fender. Jump the wires with a suitable sized wire.

I meant nope in my certain case. My trans has a bad input/main shaft bearing. So I've got to replace the whole thing. Then I got into the shaft length issue, and also if the pilot bearing changed between years.

nope, the whole thing needs to come out. Bad input shaft bearing.

Appreciate the thought. It was wicked nasty here on our wedding day. I thought that taking her camry out in 2 inches of freezing sleet probably wasnt a great idea. Especially since the B&B was on a back road. So I asked if if she wanted heat in the truck, she said yes, I told her be ready in a half hour, I'm going to work on the Jeep.

OK, so I've got the cash for a new trans in the MJ. I've got a few questions. Right now it's got the drivetrain out of a 90 in it. AX-15 that says it was made in 90, NP231 with a late 89 tag. Which trans are a drop in replacement? I remeber in another post that it was unearthed about different shaft lengths. I'd like to keep my 231, as it's functioning just fine, chain is tight and doesn't make any noises. Right now I'm looking at an AX-15 from a 95 with 76K on it. Questions. What year did the external slave start? External slave is a must if I'm gonna do a swap. What pilot bearing will I need for the crank? Does my renix motor have a different size bearing than an HO? Should I just get a matching bearing for the year tranny? Can I just use a compression fitting for the line to the external slave? I just put in a new hose and MC 2 months ago, I'd like to keep them. I'm sure I'll have more. Thanks for any answers.

ine was grand. Got married saturday, even worked on the MJ on my wedding day, you think the wife hate's yours? The the Steelers won the super bowl, so I'm pretty happy.

sounds like your slip ring is tarnished or corroded. You'll have to take th steering wheel apart and get at it. Either clean it up, or replace the ring and the wiper arm. Autozone will rent you the spring compressor and wheel puller.

for checking the oil!?! That's crazy, so are the apartment nazis on you if you make a motion towards he hood release?

I saw that someone had notched the CPS mount so the bolts didn't have to be removed completely to remove and replace. Seemed to me a good idea. Picture taken from the jeep power yahoo group http://www.flickr.com/photos/74249553@N00/94950118/ Makes sense, now you don't have to remove the bolts, just lossen them, and rotate the CPS up and pull it off. I will be doing this when I have to do the CPS.

sounds just like what mine did. It was the MC. x2 on the cheap ones, if you don't want to do it again in 10K miles get a decent one. Most of the cheap ones are simply rebuilt ones, which is something you could do yourself with a hone and a rebuild kit that cost $20.

thanks for the definitive answer.