87manche

Throw some ideas my way! :brows: Also, IIRC, XJ front sways will work, correct? the addco super beefy front sways will work no problem. for a rear sway, I'd go and look under some rangers and dakotas, they had them. Might want to look at exploders too, it seemed pretty beefy when I cut it off the 8.8 I think that a crown vic might also be worth taking a look under with a measuring tape/

no idea, we were rebuilding it on the tailgate of my MJ in tellico, using parts scavenged from a grand cherokee case.

If you put it out there the Forest Service would get it. You can even use a debit/credit card on the SFWDA link. 8) there are those of us choose not to have debit/credit cards. I'm pretty much a cash only affair.

case will be RTV'd together vs a seal. At least all of the ones I've seen are. Having just been in a 242. Large snap ring pliers, doing it with screwdrivers sucks. First things first, put it in 4WD Hi, then impact both the yokes off. Remove the tail shaft housing Remove the large snap ring undo the case halves the case should come apart. Now you have to undo the large shap ring that's on the input I don't think there was anything but the yoke holding on the front input. Flip it over, and you should be able to pull the main shaft and the front shaft. THat should be it. Assembly is reverse. You shouldn't have to mess with the shift forks or anything, but the pads like to fall off, so make sure they get put back on.

shortbed ones don't seem to tough to find. There's two of those by me. Now, go and ask them to find you one for a longbed, with the 23 gallon tank. Just not a lot of them sold with that package. Mine originally had one, and a longbed rollbar, but someone was intent on making it a street truck, so it was missing. I got the factory crap t-case skid and the steering skid though :mad:

yep, that's exactly what his looked like. When I heard it and from what the Jeep did I though he busted an 8.8 shaft. I guess the 8.8 is stronger than a 242.

If you have the means to come and get it you can have what's left of my longbox. The inside is in very good shape, it's just the bedsides that are Fubar. Inner fenders and the box itself are mint. It'll probably be off the truck in the next two weeks or so.

4.10's on stock tires with the 4.0 is what it should have been. I like my 3.73's and road tires just plenty. anyway, don't bother with the D35 though, unless you're not planning on going past say a 31" tire. otherwise they go boom.

the ZJ tie rod is plenty strong. Stronger than a stock draglink anyway. my brothers OTK setup using a RHD draglink and a ZJ tie rod. Tie rod was fine, the draglink needed some work. and yes, we were using the winch and a snatch block to straighten it.

as always CW has come up with an elegant solution to the problem. My question though, if going through all the trouble of relocating the mounts and getting new u bolt plates, why not just go SOA and save the money on the springs? I suppose I just have a different view. Especially since I've made the decision to be leaf spring free in the future.

my father has a craftsman torque wrench from the 70's that was a gift from my uncle. I took it to be recalibrated, they lost it. There was a scene Magically it turned up. Old tool are definitely cool. Jeff, I hope that all is going well. It's a tough thing to do.

wow, moving that hoist must be a bugger.. yeah, it takes a few people ;) I'll take pics when the bed comes off. Should be an exercise in hillbilly engineering.

the garage is going to get a work bench supported by D35 axle shafts. I hope they don't snap!

don't sell the tank skid. Everything else is easily replaceable, but a tank skid in good shape is really tough to find. that's my thoughts anyway. Had I any intention of keeping the MJ's tank, I would have told you to sell it ;)

that's a deal, I wonder if TSC has the same one. Anyway, my hillbilly lift is a stout 70 year old maple over the driveway, and a pair of 5K pound straps :)

I've wheeled tellico twice this year. honestly, it's my new favorite place. I sent money, but someone should see if SFWDA can put some donation boxes up right next to the self pay area. You'd get a lot more donations if it was right there. Hell, I'd have dropped a 20 in the box on the spot, both times I've gone. It truly is important to our hobby, especially with the recent loss of Paragon.

that's a very good idea as well. like an acos for the rear leaf :)

You mean something like this? That was my brothers 242 snapping the mainshaft where the speedo gear splines are. maximum suckage rebuilding a t-case instead of wheeling the next day.

are you cutting the frame rails? If I were to do something like this, and bear in mind I'm halfway to a truggy, I'd simply remove the old hangers, cut the frame rails so they were just a hair longer than where I wanted to mount the shackles. Then plate the frame rail and run the shackle inside the rail. Let the larger part of the shackle go out back behind the end of the frame rail. That should give you mondo room to let the shackle do whatever it wants back there. The tradeoff will be that you're a lor more likely to back up into something and catch the shackle and bend the main leaf. But hell, that happened to me with the stock shackle location.

nope, you called the right one. Summit'es website doesn't show any pans for the AW4 Junkyard is probably your best bet. Keep in mind that the AW4 didn't have any physical changes, so you can pull the pan from any Cherokee with a 4.0 and auto trans. Should be a milion of those in the yard.

same thing as a hank n tap kit. Look into a corvette yoke, apparently they fit, and take the right u joint.

you'll need a carrier for the front. Cutoff for the D30 is 3.73

sure it's just not a loose connection somewhere?

check the fuel pressure? I wonder if the FPR is hosed, or the return line is blocked, forcing the fuel into the motor rather than back to the tank.