87manche

the road legality won't be a big deal in OH. no vehicle inspections, and I see way worse stuff on the road than a nice truggy.

what size tires? 3.73 has turned out to be a great highway gear comprimise. my junk get's 22 on the highway loaded for weekend wheeling with the street 31's on it. it's a bit lacking on the trail with 34's, I wish I had 4.56's then, but it's not terribly bad, I don't abuse the clutch that much.

mine seems to work alright with the factory exploder discs. braking is farily even, rears will lock before the fronts with 34's.

was it green? I saw a nice looking green one today on 511.

search for posts on the topic by eagle, he's posted them before.

well, that's why I'd steal the drivetrain outta a dodge ;)

oh, and just so we're clear, my dream tow rig would be a 715, with a dodge 3/4 ton diesel drivetrain swapped in. top down, towing the MJ at 70 mph baby.

you'd have to change the carrier as well, and that means setting up the backlash at the very least. Hold out until you can find a 29 spline.

good to know. perhaps it was the 9.25 that was 6 lug those years. I can't be reliable past my birthdate, so anything past 82 I claim no responsibility ;)

the JVC units have dimmers. Mine is a little on the ghey side, but it's not horrible. The dimmer feature makes it alright at night, it cuts the display by about 50%. At that point the sirius display is brighter.

Like Izuzu's that much?? (God, that burns up Chev-heads to point out their cherished Duramax is a Jap.) I only buy Ford's for my trucks at work. We have an 89 that has about 500k miles on the damn thing. Yea, it looks like complete crap, and it rides like a work truck. But that isn't why we bought them. I wish we could have kept all the 7.3l around. The first few 6.0l we got were not good trucks at all. But they seem to have the problems worked out. My boss lost one to many trannys in his Dodge for us to ever buy one. I don't care what the Dmax is, the damned thing is a good motor. I was/am aware that it's a zusu motor. They've been doing small truck diesels for a long time, and it's probably better than anything GM could come up with. remember the 6.2 suckage? hands down, in this area it doesn't matter what the body is. It's all gonna rust anyway. So it comes down to drivetrain, I'd buy whatever has the best drivetrain, and right now that seems like GM. The Cummins are great, except that they're loud, and the dodge autos blow goats. the new superduties look really nice, but again, it's an unproven motor, and I've seen a few ford diesel autos die as well. You can be damned sure that if I was to buy a tow rig, I'd probably find something with a 5 or 6 speed trans in it. I can replace a clutch, but rebuilding an auto trans and it's TC is something I can't do in the garage.

that depends on how they mount. the frame sections are a bit different after the cab.

I don't see an issue with the lowers. That's how most tueb inserts are done, so it's not any different than a set of adjustables. the uppers kind of scare me, simply because welding to the crappy sheetmetal is sketchy at best. I'd be worried about it just tearing the sheetmetal away from the welds. I don't think they'll instantly tear apart and set your truck on fire the instant it hits pavement though.

no, I don't have pictures of most anything. just go and get a bolt of suitable size, weld it head down to the tube, then just slide the junction over it and secure with a washer and nut on the top. then I just reused my stock D35 vent tube with the 8.8's vent.

I'd not worry about them shattering, but I would be worried about long term abuse. I tend to drag leaf springs over things a bit, and a few good gouges in that fiberglass could really threaten the integrity.

yes, but I think that only the cars had 5x4.5 patterns, trucks and vans were 6 lug I think.

just weld a stud on the tube and secure with a nut and washer from the top. that's how the 8.8 got it's weirdo dakota hose secured.

stock cable, cable clamp and a spring. http://tony4aro.myjeeppage.com/photo3.html costs next to nothing, works just fine.

mid 60's to early 70's mopar stuff is the most likely thing to have them a bodies b bodies d bodies

accuracy is subjective. as long as you know where it's at normally, you can at least be aware of a potential problem, and then investigate it further. my voltmeter reads 11 volts, but the alt puts out near 14. when the voltmeter drops to 9, I know that somethings up. not accurate, but better than a dummy light.

good luck finding one of those. the muscle car guys have stripped them all in my area.

mine will be flush with the tube, just enough under there for the centering bolt head. If I end up around 5" empty then it will be good.

still got them. I need to find the keys for the metal one, they're around here somewhere.

you just described exactly what I was trying to find out.

that's what I've got now, it does flex well, and is capable of a 1K pound load.