87manche

Pretty sure that they've been making some of cooper's off brand stuff. I know for sure that they have a relationship with Cooper tire for marketing/distribution stuff.

Hey pat, sorry for calling you pete earlier. The real pete pointed out my folly. You know, if I offended you or anything, cuase I sure wouldn't wanna be mistaken for pete :D

or if I could stop bashing it against the rocks ;)

no doubt, that thing must be a pig. it needs a 350, and two driving axles in the rear to be any fun. 4 wheel burnouts are cool.

rear swaybars were never an option on the MJ. So you'd have to fabricate the mounts for it in the back. I'd look under the rear of a crown vic, they had some beefy rear swaybars that are probably about the right width. You're on your own for mounts though.

give all the throttle linkage a squirt with some lube, that's all my high idle problem was.

tire size also depends on what rim they were mounted on. Skinnier rims tend to ballon the tire out more, wider rims make it flatter.

get a pipe wrench, I had to take out my bumpstop to get the coil spacer on. Anyway, what pete said is correct, it's just sandwiched betwwen the coil and the frame.

he is indeed correct. I would also cheack that you've not got an injector that's stuck open. A stuck injector would allow a lot of gas into the cylinder, even when the motor was off. Pull the spark plugs, and look to see if one looks a lot different than the other.

quite right, the floor is physically different. As for parts interchange: Everything forward of the seats interchanges. All of the drivetrian parts interchange, with the exception of the rear axle and driveshaft. An XJ axle will work, it just needs the proper leaf spring perches welded on. Obviously an XJ rear D-shaft is too short to be of any use.

check the air filter as well. When my CCV tube was unplugged the air filter sucked a quart of oil into the air box and leaked all down the fender and frame rail. That all happened in about 500 miles.

yeah, I wouldn't be sandwiching the frame rail, I'd just clearance the holes in the rail, and weld the nuts to the back of the frame rail plates.

is the chain still in one piece? 4Hi at highway speeds can break the chain, and when it snaps around that's what happens to the case. if the chain isn't broken, I'd say it was just a fluke mechanical thing. The perils of driving something that's 10 years old.

I tend to agree with this. Depends on your use with those 33's. Is this a light trial duty machine, or the occasional off road toy? If so, I'd stay SUA to avoid the headache that is going SOA with new shocks/mounts/potential axlewrap. Is this gonna be a toy used in the big rocks, or on serious trails? Go SOA, and do it right, with the proper welded on perches, and shock mounts raise to the centerline of the tube. My spring plates are destroyed, my shocks take a beating, hell, the shock mounts on the plates are so bent I have to use a hammer to put the shock eye over them. So, in short, go SOA if it's a serous trail machine, getting stuck on the spring plates sucks.

it's way stronger than the XJ. thicker uni frame rails more bonding points for the cab. The rear is a boxed in frame, with some plating it should be plenty stout. It only takes one look at the MJ LCA mount compared to an XJ to know that AMC really beefed up the unibody for pickup truck use. It certainly flexes a lot less than your traditional body on frame pickup truck.

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best way to weld in the nuts? I was thinking of making a "nut strip" and then welding that to the frame. Just use the unibit to drill holes to clear the nuts.

cost is a big deal right now. So I'll be doing all the work myself. Besides, I'm not sure if all that would fit under my junk. It's easier to make the right parts, than modify someone elses that don't fit. anyway, I think I've come to a few decisions. Rubber on the frame side shanked rebuildable on the axle side 2x4 crossmember for the uppers. probably going to tie the lowers to the plated frame rail on the inside. that leaves me with a few questions about the crossmember. That section of the frame will obviously be plated, but I don't think I want to weld the crossmember in place. Was thinking of putting a flange on the ends that wrapped around under the frame rail. 4 sleeved bolts through the frame rial, and then 2 or 3 on the bottom into weld nuts. We're probably talking 5/8" grade 8 bolts all the way across. Strong enough?

meh, I thought the same thing, but my 1/4" 2x6 C is all bent up in the back. I even bent it up into the body under the tail lights.

nice. you need to sell those.

looks like the perfect farm truck stumpy. How's the wear on those LTB's though? :eek:

go get a gallon of gear lube, then just fill it until it's even with the fill plug. My ax-15 is about 3 quarts.

I used ones that came from the parts store. They were a little tight around the tube, but if it isn't tight it isn't right, right? anyway, they were the largest ones in stock at advance.

might look at the exploder spring plates, they had shock mounts on them, but they're angled funny. what's your timeline? I'll have mine in about two months free. The studs are beat up, but you could weld new stud in place.