87manche

sounds about right. Q78's would be big enough if you were willing to do a serious shave job on those axles. honestly, I'm waiting for the D30 to blow up with my 34's.

someone is sending me some stock rear TJ coils. I'll get measurements and pose them in the rear frame arches when they show up.

not exactly. The output shaft length changed as well. Easy fix is to go and grab that 242, split the cases and swap the input gears. They "should" be the same gear cut if they're anywhere near the same year. don't forget to grab the shift bezel and linkage.

A d30 isn't gonna stand up to Q78s, even if you polish it. go find vetteboys buildup on pirate. He's got a 3 link just like you described. SOmeone evben put it up in a solidworks format.

I was looking at ford aerostar front coils for the rear. Or airbags.

700 KM is like what, 4 miles? seriously though, it's a great motor, it's been known to go well over 200K miles. Mine's at about 270, still runs great, good oil pressure, the occasional lifter tick when it's cold. it sure seems to love rotella T motor oil though. picked up about 5 pounds of oil pressure at hot idle.

I'd bet cracked manifold, or a loose manifold. I thought for sure my manifold was cracked, turned out to be all the bolts were out of spec. retorqued that whole mess and no more ticking noise. have fun getting a wrench on some of those... :mad:

it's called time. The CCV system is supposed to deal with the crankcase fumes, and those are a normal part of any engines operation. Just figure that all of these trucks are almost 20 years old, the vacuum systems are falling apart and all of the rubber stuff under the hood is extremely suspect at that age. I thought my 4.0 was on it's last legs because of my blowby problem, but a compression check showed nominal compression across the board. Replacing the CCV parts was a complete fix for me. Do a compression check, it's the best way to tell, unless of course you have a leak down rig.

what year F250, starting in 01 I think, they went to the funny metric bolt pattern.

in that case I'd stick the largest E fan I could fit under the shroud on it and call it good.

ok, I think that we need to get some basic understanding of the CCV system in this thread. The grommet and the hose in the rear are a metered vacuum leak. That hose is supposed to suck all of the vapors from the valve cover back into the intake. The front, larger hose is to provide filtered air from the airbox. What happens is this: The rear CCV line get's plugged/the grommet stops sealing what have you, the system then reverses itself and the hose up front starts sucking out the vapors. Since that hose is so much larger, it also sucks up a bunch of oil. You've got a few possible problems that cause this. The most likely is that all of the CCV parts need replacing. The second most likely is that the tower/splash guards are all gunked up and interfering. Take the valve cover off and clean it. The third and most unhappy situation is that your rings are worn and combustion chanber pressures are pressurizing the crankcase, forcing the oil out, only way to fix that is a rebuild. So, do a compression check dry and wet. That will tell you what shape the rings are in. If they're in good shape, replace all of the CCV parts and it will likely be fixed. This advice of course hinges on the fact that you have tested for and eliminated any other intake leaks.

yes, when my CCV tube was accidently left off, I drove about 50 milea at highway speed. When I got there it was a quart low, and there was oil dripping onto the top of my tire when I stopped, and oil all inside the fender.

The Currie setup works on the TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ as they all have the same part number (CE-9701). Why spend the $$ on the Currie setup when you can have a 1-ton crossover setup for $150 less? why spent $249 on yours and keep it under the knuckle? sorry, but that just doesn't make sense to me. Sure it's a bolt in affair, but if I'm upgrading my steering it's going OTK. Going over the knuckle on the pass-side requires a new knuckle and/or a funky bracket that will most likely than be the week point. The TRE's won't fit without hitting the rim otherwise. Not a lot of people want to run a 17" rim to clear them, or a funky offset to eat up the bearings... You could run it's OTK on the drivers side, but than your tie-rod wouldn't be parallel (read bumpsteer). It's a cheaper than most setup that solves a lot of steering issues associated with going over 4.5" of lift. I never claimed it was the best kit available on the market. However it's 1/2 the price of a OTK setup, and a 100% bolt on setup. it looks beefy, and well done. I guess I'm just moving past bolt on stuff. I've made compromises previously because of my lack of understanding/fabrication skills. Now I just can't buy anything, I suppose it's an evolutionary thing. WHen you start to become unsatisfied with bolt ons you just start making your own junk.

I agree, I'll be reusing the bar, but making my own mount similar to the HD mount, new frame side piece and I'll flip the rod end vertical, so I can run it in double shear, and not have it bind. The Rock Krawler has a similar sized end mount. I wonder if the RK mount would work with the RE1600. If I just had a RE1600 in stock (yeah right that won't' ever happen) I'd check... well, I got mine brand new in the box for cheap, so I couldn't pass it up. I bought it knowing that it would end up modified. most of the things on my front end are temporary. I just needed it to wheel this season. Now that I ve beat it up really well, I know what I want to do and where I'm going. So it will get a raised axle side mount, OTK steering up front, and links and coils in the rear.

The Currie setup works on the TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ as they all have the same part number (CE-9701). Why spend the $$ on the Currie setup when you can have a 1-ton crossover setup for $150 less? why spent $249 on yours and keep it under the knuckle? sorry, but that just doesn't make sense to me. Sure it's a bolt in affair, but if I'm upgrading my steering it's going OTK.

to my knowledge the 242 was never offered on the MJ.

2.5 use the same rad as the 4.0? if so, I'd think two stock 4.0 fans could do the job, as that's a pretty large radiator for a 4 banger. if not, the mechanical fan is something like 2000 CFM, so you'll need a 16" or so E fan to replace it.

I agree, I'll be reusing the bar, but making my own mount similar to the HD mount, new frame side piece and I'll flip the rod end vertical, so I can run it in double shear, and not have it bind.

where did the headliner come from? it's a really nice job through and through/

what are you eating up on the stock ones? TRE's or the bushing? Lifted? Wheel it in what terrain? I've got a re 1600, that seems stout with the exception of it's mounting system. Single shear on the stock frameside bracket just isn't for me. It seems to be holding up though, it survived two trips to tellico, and some more local wheeling this year.

it's a tossup, you're really at the limit of a D30 locked with 35s. if you got alloys you'll move the weak point to the ring and pinion. the result of 35's with alloys, trussed and locked. I've seen one other D30 do about the same thing, only it was just half the ring gear.

it will have to be an 87-90 era XJ, chryco switched the spline count to 23 spline when they went "ho"

4 link, ditch the tank for a fuel cell up by the cab. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6174 that's why I plan anyway. I've got some rough measurements, but I need to get the bed off to figure out the final dimensions and where the crossmember will be. Likely I'll mount the lower links to the plated frame, and mount the uppers to a new crossmember, it's probably going where the tank used to reside. I'm not sure if I'm going to truss the 8.8 for the link mounts or not. probably, even if it's just a hoop for the link tabs. welding to cast scares me.

I've seen two with broken backs. One was a terminal case of brown cancer, 20 years in ohio will do that. The other just looked like someone had severly overloaded the truck. Both broke after the cab, in the section of frame before the wheel arch.

I've got stock steering and around the same lift and it seems fine to me. :nuts: Am I nuts? yep. take a look at the TRE at the pitman arm. It's likely near maxed out at static ride height. Now droop the passenger side, when the TRE maxes out and binds it puts enormous strain on the pitman arm and steering box, and in turn the unibody that the box is bolted to. I wouldn't run stock steering at 6.5", it just wasn't meant to travel that far. Even at 4" I can see abnormal TRE wear from binding. I'm going OTK with a JCR copy.