87manche

if 31's are yout tire sized goal don't worry about it. anything larger, put an 8.8 in it.

I think I'm getting to the crazy hard part. Something about smoking the snot out of bias ply 34" tsls in tellico.

might do wellsville OH labor day weekend for a day or two. We'll see. I got a lot of maintenance to catch up on before the next telico trip.

I too would do this. I had a few friends that went as contractors in iraq and came back with 6 figures tax free. If the wife would have let me go I would have. So where do I sign up for this nigeria gig? Mind you, I have no children. That would complicate my decision.

yep, it's something like $1k. the warn kit has some advantages, but again, for that much money I could PAY someone to put a front 44 under my junk. Like I said, seems to me that when people start breaking the D30 they're all concerned with beefing it up. Bottom line is that it's a light duty truck axle. It's a lot more durable than most give it credit for, but 35's are pretty much the absolute max for it. Even if you alloy it up, you're still looking at a small ring gear. I've personally seen 3 D30s that were locked with alloys eat half the ring gear teeth.

should be, I'm at 4" and I had to put a spring on the line to keep it up out of the way.

napa has those parts, the whole 97+ CCV upgrade can be done for about $70.

to spend that much time/money and effort on a D30 seems a waste to me. If I was going to spend that much effort for a front axle, it would at least be a 44. I've made the determination that when the time comes that I've outgrown my D30/8.8 combo I'm just gonna do a 14 bolt and front 60. Why bother with anything else, when you know you're gonna end up there eventually. Shave the snot out of the housings, run 36's and never worry about breaking an axle.

kick @$$ rebuild. As a fellow longbed wheeler, heed my advice. Build protection for the lower quarters of the bed behind the wheels, or cut the sheetmetal up to the body line. Otherwise, you'll end up with body damage, no avoiding it with the horrible departure angle and that much overhang. man, I really wish I hadn't destroyed my bed.

seems as though you're underground cable line is vulnerable. Make the cable company put a surge suppressor on the outside of the house, bonded to the house electrical system, and grounded through an 8 foot rod. Should solve the problem. Yes, they will fight you on it, but they'll do it if you make the almighty threat of going satellite.

check the flexplate? might be loose o cracked, and when you put it in gear the CPS can't read it. Also want to check your bellhousing bolts.

I should mention that you'll need wheel spacers if you're running the stock wheels. anything 4.75" of backspacing or less should clear just fine depending on your tire width.

sounds like he subframed the rear. anyway, it's likely got a small block chevy in it, unless he dropped a big block into it to go racing. Any small block drivetrain should fit, probably a 350, th400 would be the best way to go. You could do carbed with the intention of fuelie later. fuellie will be expensive, you're looking at injectors and such, unless you get a fuellie donor. look into megasquirt, some assembly required, but infinitly tunable, and lots of premade fuel maps out there for a small block.

\depends. Try your best to get one with the calipers and all the brake stuff intact, otherwise you'll have 2-300 bucks in the brakes. Pete delivered mine for what $175? I forget, anyway, it was complete, and I'm running the rotors and pads that came form the junkyard. So, my 8.8 axle swap cost me Axle $175 Perches $8 right side brake hose $25 Spicer flange adapter $30 so $230 total, it was geared to match the front. I cleaned the ford brackets off, welded new perches on and filled it full of gear oil and went wheeling. You'll want to get an HD diff cover, the stock one is thin as paper.

hesco and crane both make cams for the 4.0. check summit's page.

find out what the XJ axle is, no sense in sticking another D35 in there. It's about the same amount of work to put an 8.8 under the truck, since you'll be welding perches anyway. MJ shackles are longer than XJ shackles, so unless he had some 3" lift shackles on his XJ you're probably going to end up with little or no lift from them. 2" chevy drop shackles will lift it an inch in the rear, mine came from summit, they were cheap.

I don't think you guys get it yet. He's got to feed the addiction. It's like crack, you might not have enough money for rent, but you're gonna get that rock.

Once you sort through the 50lbs of garbage to find the 1lb of goodness. learn to use the search function properly and you'll find anything you needed to know in 10 minutes. boolean operators are your friends.

keep it stock height, relocate the flares and you'll clear 31's no problem. I'd say do 31's until you're ready to go SOA. No sense in spending money twice. I'll assume you've got a D35 rear as well, so 31's will keep it from exploding. When you go SOA, swap in a 44 or an 8.8

easiest to just modify the door striker on the b pillar and use the 97 door complete. a search on naxja should get you a thread by Kejtar that has pictures.

I think there should be a mention that a "tow strap" and a "recovery strap" are two different things. Tow straps don't stretch, they just break. Recovery straps strectch a bit, then release that energy while snatching. pro comp usually has deals on the 2" strap, they're nice. Just remember that straps need to be replaced is you see ANY chaffing/cuts on them. Don't put your straps away wet and let them sit, hang them up when you get home so they can dry. that said, I picked up one of the walmart straps because I was on my way to a run and forgot my strap. It held up fine for the one or two pulls I gave with it, but it's suspect in my book.

I bet he just searches youtube. More importantly, can I save these to my computer? using firefox? if so, there's an add on that lets you save flash movies.

I think the major difference is going to be the EGR system that the renix motor has. If you've got the 97+ intake and no EGR, I'd run the hotter plug, as the camshaft has different timing/overlaps and was designed for the hotter plug to pass emmissions and the like. anyway, my junk get's champions, because the bosch made it run like @$$. besides, it's not a race car, am I really missing that extra 5 horse?

a few questions before you can get answers. Willing to cut the body for clearance? what width 33's? how much backspacing on the wheels? Do you have a welder/friends that could weld perches on an axle for you? The easiest suggestions is to go spring over on the rear, and then match it up front with 4.5" coils and a spacer to level it out. Skyjacker makes a 3" kit with a full length AAL, it's not been horrible for the year I've had it. I fit 34's, but they're skinny, and I cut the snot out of the fenders.

summit is good, and being that they're about an hour from me you should get it in a few days with the free ground shipping.