87manche

like I said, only on the early knuckles did they use those sleeves. I'm not sure of the cut off point, but it was 90 or 91.

my problem with most of the radius arm kits out there are the frame mounts. They all seem like gigantic rock anchors. It's probably not such an issue for the XJ guys, but in an MJ that's the first place I set the frame rails on rocks. when I do it, and it's simply a matter of time, the front is going to get a mid arm 3 link, with a panhard. I think that it's a better arrangement, the anti dive/unloading characteristics of the radius arm just don't suite my tastes. anyway, I don't see anything horribly wrong with radius arms, but do something better with the frame side mounts, otherwise you're just going to get hung up and bash the snot out of them if you wheel rocks.

I'd keep them, 16" wheels are offering a lot more tire sizes now than 15". I'd mask off the top faces and paint all the gold parts black, I think it'd look sexy then.

that looks like pre 96, the 8.25 has a much stronger housing and ring and pinion, but the early ones were only 27 spline, so shaft strength is about the same as a D35. Later ones were 29 spline, and closer to a D44 in strength,

found a picture apparently they were used on D44's as well. http://www.jeepfan.com/projects/camber-adjustment.htm

the earlier D30's used threaded inserts in the knuckles that the balloints sit in. You can buy the threaded inserts with the adjustable offset. They're about $25 a piece. It's a whole lot cheaper than the adjustable BJs. I think they stopped using the threaded inserts about 90. My frankenstein axle still has them, the knuckles came off an 88.

line-x is real good stuff. it's like rhino lining with a bit of powdercoating tech thrown in. They spray it hot, and they ground the body, and put a charge on the line-x itself.

sad to hear Jeff. be careful on your many trips. We'll catch you later.

regarding the camber, I've done this, it was expensive. the cheaper way is to use the adjustable sleeves rather than the adjustable balljoints. They're about $25 vs $100 for the adjustable balljoints. I've got the same lift on my front end, plus another inch of spacers. It can be made to work properly and steer right, with those skyjacker arms. honestly, I wish that I had just gone and found another axle, that wasn't screwed up, putting the money I put into mine seems like a waste for a D30, especially when I could have just gone and gotten another one for $150 at the yard.

two words Hydraulic Drivetrain go full hydro and you don't need to worry about driveshafts, just hoses. rockwells with a gigantic hydraulic motor attached to the pinion seems like a good idea. Of course, you'd need to source the pump from a piece of Ag equipment or something.

had a sig kobra once that I balanced at the spar at the tips. Didn't have the blueprints and didn't know it had a tapered spar and needed to be measured at the wing root. so it was a little tail heavy, took off and it went straight up. how I loved the little enya motor that day.

check the TV cable on the throttle body and make sure it's adjusted properly. It controls line pressure. to adjust, there should be a plastic button on the top. Push plastic button, pull the plastic housing thingy forward. Get in the jeep and push the accelerator to the floor. You should hear 2 or 3 clicks and then it should be set properly. I imagine that it's mushy when not in 1-2 because it's slipping when shifting. WHen you keep it in 1-2 you're likely hitting a higher RPM and generating the correct line pressure. of course it's speculation, but it doesn't take but 5 minutes to adjust the cable, and it's free.

the PDC was something chryco introduced when they went HO, the rest of us are stuck with a much nastier rats nest of wires from AMC. on my 87 4.0 it is the middle relay. Thanks - didn't know that. yeah chryco certainly did clean up a lot of AMC's half assed wiring. I've got a PDC from a 94 that I need to graft into mine. I HATE fusible links.

the PDC was something chryco introduced when they went HO, the rest of us are stuck with a much nastier rats nest of wires from AMC. on my 87 4.0 it is the middle relay.

they should work Pete. The hubs that came off the 97 axle I put under the junk fit my neighbors 98 TJ. The only difference is the spacing to the rotor, so they'll bolt up, and if it's not the same when you put the caliper on it will bind against the rotor when you tighten the lug nuts.

my wife has finally given in. After the 8.8 swap I don't have a locker in the rear. the other day she says "I think you need to order a locker, I felt more comfortable in the Jeep when it had a locker" $#!&, I didn't need any more encouragement than that.

borgeson is in CT. http://www.borgeson.com/TruckProductJeep.htm looks like nice stuff, kinda pricey though.

looks for a post done by Eagle on the subject, he had one cross sectioned.

inspect the brake lines that run up there, replace if there's any rust. You can't get to them with the tank in.

sure can, overcompressing it would cause that damage. only way to really check is to extend it all the way and put a straight edge to it.

Jeep did pretty well, how many 20 yr old vehicles are even repairable at this stage. let alone to see the abuse I put mine through.

eagle may be correct, I remmeber that I used the imperial size closest to the metric size, it did clunk, and it's probably what toasted the bushing.

I don't see why the shocks would clunk only when turning. They should clunk anytime you hit anything rough as well. A few more questions: Can you feel the clunk through thw wheel? Can you feel the clunk under the floorboards? Do you have swaybar disconnects? Have you checked all of the TRE's for play? Does the steering wheel have a dead spot?

depends. could use some big grade 8 washers around the hole.

they're a shade bigger than half inch, a metric bolt. 14mm if I recall. I used half inch gr8 to replace one once, it left some slop in the bushing.