87manche

don't use primer though, I prefer a "semi-gloss" for automobile paint. Primer is porous and doesn't seal the metal. Flat paint is a total PITA to clean mud off of. Gloss paint is a total PITA to spray and make look nice. Semi gloss is a nice mix of all of the above. I plan on painting the MJ with rustoleum "hammered" paint. The textured paint is easy to tough up, and it hides the outline/shape of dents well. and I like how it turned out on my front bumper.

stock 4wd suspension, 31's. Didn't rub on anything but the lower control arms when turning full lock. 235's should be ducky, I think they were a factory option were they not?

In order to work on it you have to learn it. honestly I can diagnose just about any issue anywhere/anytime with a DMM, but I've also practically memorized the renix MPI FSM. As to mileage, I made an 700 mile trip with 1K lbs of camping/tires/bumper in the bed and still managed 22 MPG on the highway. not bad for a 20 year old truck with a "flawed" fuel injection system. Point is, the Renix system is much more adaptable, runs the motor using realtime information from it's sensors, and is pretty much bulletproof. It just takes a little love to make it reliable, but I honestly haven't worked on the engine management in a year. I've spent more time repairing hard drivetrain parts than anything in the electronics.

I'm an artist! seriously though. I've got to rewire the majority of the MJ anyway, I hate fusible links, and I'm going to use the extra spaces in the PDC to power auxilarry stuff, so I can just have the mains lead on the battery posts, instead of all the power take offs that are on it now. it all makes sense in my head.

Considering how time intensive that operation is (I've rewired half the MJ since the PO butchered under my dashboard) $450 doesn't sound bad at all.

go get a spare CPS, put it in the toolbox with a few long extensions and basic sockets. if it fails somewhere you'll have to change it out have it towed. One of the symptoms is usually an intermittent stall or no start, so it may be on its way out.

best I could do and yes, that's the MJ's good side.

wow, that is cheap.

if going through all the trouble, why not upgrade to an HO underhood PDC. I've got a 94 PDC sitting in my office, waiting to go under the hood. Most of what's in the interior fuse block will get moved out there, and what's left could easily be handled by some hot rod wire harness parts.

go here: http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm find the parts locally. I just priced ZJ parts, you'll have about $80 in it, it will all fit right cause it's OEMR, and it will be a very strong upgrade.

it is mostly because all the renix rigs are 20 years old. if he were to inspect every electrical connection/clean every connector I bet it would work and run just like new. That's what it took for mine. Takes a weekend.

put the truck on jackstands and let the front axle droop out of the way. Support it with the floor jack, after you disconnect the shocks and the swaybar links. Pull one UCA at a time, otherwise you'll be fighting the axle to get it rotated back into place. replace bushings. the bushings are fun, there will be much cursing. Put the new bushings in the freezer overnight. That way the rubber hardens, and shrinks a bit, so you can press it in easier. Lots of lube needed.

check your TPS or for a vacuum leak. Mine idles at 6-700 rpm. the oil pressure guage sounds like the wrong sender. I'd verify the oil pressure with a mechanical guage, just to make sure your 4.0 doesn't have horrible pressure, then troubleshoot the cluster guage.

well, the temp gauge needle sounds normal, that's what mine does. Did you check for spark? Did you disturb any other vacuum lines? Specifically the one going to the map sensor?

OK, here's the run down. Renix parts are a bit more expensive, and can be harder to source if you don't have a good parts store. Simply because there are less of them on the road than the HO variants. The block is basically the same as an HO. When chryco went to HO in 91 they redesigned the head and changed the camshaft profile so they could delete the EGR system. The renix ECU does not store codes, it doesn't even have a check engine light. So if something stops working properly get out a voltmeter and go to town. The sensors are incredibly basic, and about 90% of the parts can be tested with a voltmeter. From a reliability/fix it on the side of the road standpoint, I feel that the renix system is better. The HO system does have it's merits, but I just like the renix, as I feel it's much more fault tolerant. So long as it has a MAP/TPS/CPS input it will run. It does however use an odd O2 sensor, so don't go wiring in a "universal" cheap one from the parts store, they're the wrong type. About the EGR, it's sometimes problematic, and usually expensive to repair. If it breaks, just get some block off plates and delete it. Of course, this is assuming you don't have a visual emmisions check.

what about making it flush, then using some of those elliptical spring steel bumperettes they used on the wronglers?

Bling Bling!

sears will work ok. Just don't expect it to last as long, but it will get the job done. take extra blades in case you bend one. Be careful if you cut the u bolts, they snap rather violently. yes, you need to get some 1/2" drive sockets, and a largish breaker bar. My junkyarding breaker bar is 48" long, and I carry another piece of pipe to put over the handle to mnake it 72" long, but I'm a wee little guy that needs a lot of leverage to break a bolt head off. breaker bar will be 1/2" drive. cut the driveshaft on the tube, a bit away from the flange, as they flange piece goes into the tube a bit.

I do, but I've only got maybe 500 sq ft of actual grass. takes 20 minutes to mow and trim. I suppose the biggest question is, Why did she buy you an ATV winch if you don't have an ATV?

I've got skyjackers 3" coils in the front. They seem plenty soft. The springs will outflex my short arms.

you have to gut the door, and put all the 97 stuff in, window tracks, regulator, everything. probably be easier to just use the 97+ doors and adapt the B pillar latch side of things, and have them painted.

that's a worst case scenario situation for me. I use RTV on my diff covers, simply because it sticks so well, andif you bend the lip of a cover the RTV tends to stay sealed. On the valve cover though, it's a royal PITA to clean back off, and when you're cleaning it from the head I always drop little bits in places I don't want it to go. I just use gasket dressing and the cork gasket.

the illumination socket grounds through the cigarrette socket itself. SO just hook that org/blk wire into the dash light circuit and it will light up.

the 18v ones are amazing. My cousin works for the company that bought milwaukee, and he designed the orbital mechanism they call "the hatchet" he tells me the new lithium ones are insanely cool, but he hasn't hooked me up with one yet.

pool noodles in the innerfender space. they don't hold water, can be taken out to clean crap out of there, just a little ugly.