87manche

I don't know if it's just the angle of the pictur or not, but the passenger side inner C looks fubar. edit. I looked at it again, I'm just not sure. if it was bent you'd think the balljoints would look funny in it, but they look ok.

all the stamped steel one needs is the welds finished, and the ends boxed in and it would be just as stout. stupid factory welds stop 1/2" from the end of the bracket.

good to know, glad I asked.

it's not the tube that's any stronger on the disco axle, it's the passenger side upper control arm mount. It's a cast affair cast into the disco housing, rather than the stamped steel job on the non disco housings.

sometimes it costs money to learn better.

I'd copy this: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Fla ... -1184.html or something similar depending on your exact wants. I see no problem with raising the coil buckets, as long as you've got the control arms to fix the caster. You'll want to rotate the buckets so they're level at the height you plan to run them at.

they could very easily be made solid, all it would take it some fiberglass strands and some resin.fill it up and start shaping.

I'll cut and paste from the other thread.

all dodge/chryco transmissions suck. pretty sad for the company that invented the damned things. The key is cooling, most of them have far inadequate coolers. SLap a gigantic cooler on it and call it a day. That said, I know a few people with cummins dodges, good drivetrain, will likely outlast the trucks body.

XJ=Cherokee MJ=Comanche MJ and XJs are the same from the seats forward, so cherokees are a good place for parts. To answer your questions: The steering box is mounted to the frame rail, drivers side, right behind the bumper and below the radiator. If someone has told you it's loose in the knuckle that's on the axle. it could be balljoints or the unit bearing. You'll have to jack up each side and push/pull/lever against it to see where the movement is,. Your steering symptoms could be just from a poor alignment, caster is a key part in this. Check all the front end parts and then go from there. If you need more help, start a new thread, we'll need all the info about your MJ. Year, motor, trans, 4wd or not.

and investgate the fan clutch as well. they make funny noises when they want to be replaced.

what about using brass? it wouldn't gall like steel. I would imagine it would be strong enough.

same reason that autozone doesn't rent one, because it's intended use will destroy it.

that looks nice. I can't wait to find a deal on some road tires.

CTS is on the back of the head, drivers side, near the firewall. It's a little brass jobby, has one wire (brown on my 87) going to it. Sounds like you got the cluster from an HO rig, as far as my knowledge is chryco changed the polarity of the gas guage, so you'd have to replace the sending unit to make the gauge work right. You might be able to swap the old gauge into your cluster, don't know, never tried.

not to be a fool, but.....how do electrical conectors leak fuel?? he's refering to the renix injectors split body. They like to seperate in the middle, between the electrical connector and the nozzle, and leak fuel from the body of the injector itself.

just leave it. if the individual driving it didn't have a license it's likely that he was doing stupid things anyway. I'd not want to get involved in the legal quagmire that's about to ensue.

when filing, use grease to catch the filings and keep them from going into the intake.

the ones with orange and black wires look like they go to switch panel lights. They should go behind the unused blanks in your switch panels. I've got the blue wire/clear plug one under mine, it goes no where also. I think maybe it went to the long missing emmisions timer, but I don't know./

can we get some pics of the lightforce lights? I'm seriously considering dropping the $250 on them. I've had two sets of cheapies, and I'm ready to make the investment. The ability to change the beam style with a turn of the housing is a good selling point. that and they seem indestructible.

i'm in the midst of the samw swap. after killing 2 D35's in a week.

start looking for a new axle. If the pinion nut was loose that means you were running the axle without the correct preload on the bearings. It's incredibly likely that you've drastically cut the life of them short. prepare for the worst, hope for the best.

have to be an awfully steep hill to get up to the pinion. but you're right, I didn't think about parking on a hill.

yeah, but if it was the fill plug you wouldn't see oil on the front underside of the axle. Oil doesn't flow up. it's likely the pinion seal, it's not hard to replace, unless you get hosed and can't get it off. http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... nSeals.htm