87manche

I run a good 10w40 in the summer, and switch to 10w30 in the winter. 20w50 sent my oil pressures far too high, I was worried. If you plan on changing oil viscosities, and have just the dummy light, you might want to put a mechanical guage on there. With 20w50 my guage was over at 70 psi of pressure on startup, a bit much for my liking.

do a search for DIY posi lock, I know I've posted a link to it before. Some guy did it on his YJ for about $30 in random hardware store stuff.

plugzit I believe is the plugs for the slip yoke. link http://orc.off-road.com/offroad/article ... ?id=298149

it means taht it's a freaking drag car. stall speed in an auto trans is where the motor will rev too before the car is forced to move, or the RPMs will stop increasing. So a crazy high stall speed lets him rev the motor up to about 5K or so, with the brakes on. Release the brakes and all that horsepower hits at once, launching that thing like a freaking rocket I bet.

did you put a PCV valve in there john? I was toying with that myself, as it would right the flow of the cv system, but I was worried that if I truly had cylinder blowby that it might cause too much crankcase pressure, and start popping seals and such. What did that PCV valve come out of?

http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... ersion.htm new style oil filter is horizontal, and you can run a larger filter with the SAE thread, rather than our odd metric one.

that was a problem with the one on the sundance as well. cold starts were horrendously noisy, but after I dissected it, I saw what the problem was. The cardboard that held the element open was not assembled correctly, and so half the filter element was collapsed.

:huh???: the truth is that fram sucks. Oil filters at least. I'd try getting rid of that filter and then go from there. Does it really matter that much? I mean, I'm one of those guys that says 'oil is oil...' and mixes brands. I run fram filters because they are cheap and have the grippy part on them so I can change my oil easier every year or two. I did notice the MJ had some hardcore valve noise on startup last week. Or maybe the idler pulley is trying to seize again. yes it does. My first car was a plymouth sundance, with the chryco 2.5L first oil change I did was with a fram filter cause I didn't know any better. After that oil change it had nasty valvetrain noise at startup and higher RPMs. Changed out the filter and the oil again, noise went away. Obviously the fram was limiting oil flow to the top end.

I'm not sure if I want to cut the frame or not when I build a new bed. don't know if I'm that brave. the bob looks good though.

pics won't do you any good. No swelling, no bruising. I just don't bruise easily, it's a good thing, cause I'm casper the freaking ghost, a bruise would look scarey. Lets just say there was cursing involved. The u bolt snapped, then the impact bent it, and swung it around into the back of my wrist before I could release the trigger.

I ended up with it because it came with my brothers 4.5" kit. He caouldn't use it, as he's gone over the axle with the trackbar and his steering. SO I got it cheap. Other than the single shear mounting it seemed like it was solid.

but the MJ is driveable in 2wd again. Had to ride my freaking bicycle to the parts store this morning to get a u-bolt. They've only been on there since last may, already rusted solid, I hate Ohio. broken u-bolt got my hand though, hurts a lot more today than it did yesterday. suckage. On to the 8.8 swap!

I just installed a RE1600 as well. I'm not terribly comfortable with it. The bar is nice, but I don't like the rod end mounting with the stock trackbar bracket.my plans are to buy the JKS trackbar bracket piece and mount it in double shear, with the rod end vertical, so it can't bind. http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... e=FABParts

change the filter. the general consensus is that fram sucks. I personally had valvetrain noise in a chryco 2.5, changed to a Wix filter and it went away.

does manik still make those?

ok, I did some research on that unit: http://www.cnwinch.com/winch_strap.htm hampion/milemarker/harbor freight all made in the same factory. Seems to be decent, just a bit slow. I can live with slow. http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/produc ... index.html might have to get one of those and the silly reciever mounted winch thingy.

actually they weren't welded to begin with. Ford in their infinite wisdom just used some plugs they punched into the tube. Oh well, welding it isn't a big deal, and it's still a hella stout axle.

bah, you guys are just jealous of my Pioneer. Top trim level in 87 baby!

check the grounds in the sockets themselves. Mine were shot and the turn signals were grounding through my indicator lamps.

the Mj had one when I bought it, certainly looked like it was an older dak rollpan, it did have some custom work done to make it match the corners. It was welded to the hitch, and to the box at the corners under the tail lights. I don't have any pictures of it anymore. lawn chere over on naxja is the one that ended up with it, he might take some pics/measurements for you.

I've got some of the first gen 2 plates they lined up with no drilling/filing.

links: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/ http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88-red.html

it's been done many times, it's a cast steel not a cast iron. The factory just used some stamped plugs to keep the tubes from twisting. it needs to be welded. Many have done it no problems with just a MIG.

bummer yeah, I'm sure I can get there. pm me a price. MJ is getting a major makeover in the fall, so I won't need them until then.

I did it without removing anything. It's a PITA, I have small hands, and I stood on my head for 30 minutes. if I do it again I'll just pull the lowe dash panel.