87manche

not a problem, I rode 10 hours to flatnasty, beat the hell out of it and rode back. easy to be a truck, hard to be a Jeep

check the grounds, and check that what the TPS is seeing at the connector is what the ECU is putting out. The TPS get's it's power from the ECU, the ECU monitors what it puts out, then compares that to what it gets back. A poor connection/corrosion would throw off that reading.

I'm going OME long travels up front. Got a quote from DPG Offroad, pricey, but I don't plan on buying shocks again for a while. The rear is a whole nother matter. Anyone got a book of monroe or gabriel shock lengths? My skyjackers are severly limiting my droop back there, and since I plan on going SOA in the fall it doesn't make good sense to buy expensive shocks so I can pitch them.

my drivers side has one dent, towards the front of the box that could be popped easily, mind you, I plan on wheeling this thing all summer with the bed on it, so by the time it comes off it might not be in such good shape. Has two quarter sized surface rusts spots. near the back. When I take the bed off I'll let everyone know, I'll have a good tailgate as well.

i can't beleive it slipped out, 4lo and all. :dunno: shtuff happens i guess. it looks completely BA and only costed 350$ for the rad. and windshield his old shop he went to for years with his volvo is putting it in today, said they would put one in it today no matter what, so hopefully ill get more pics post roll-over today. the parking pawl in an auto is really a lot weaker than you might think, and the way it's designed it can slip under enough weight/force. Always set your e-brake on an incline. I've even contemplated a pinion type brake when I change out the 231, just so I can have something I KNOW won't let go.

if he doesn't use it send me a PM next. Been looking for a tank skid.

I've got a bed that is going to be scrapped in the fall, the drivers side is repairable. No rust, just a few largish dents that could be popped by a decent body man.

I wish, but the yards around here would probably want $20 a shock! I was thinking Yj shocks might be the right length I need. I'm just gonna have to go and get the big book of shock lengths at the parts store and figure out which cheapass monroe will get the job done.

nice, Cheap is good. I'm broke. and the heep keeps sucking down maintenance money. I figure the rears aren't such a problem, since they're regular eye to eye, the front ones with stud are the problem.

So, I installed the new trackbar last night, and it appears that my shocks are severly limiting my droop. Brake lines and control arms still have another 2-3" to go, this is at 3". Planning on installing my spacers this weekend and going to 4" up front. anybody got any shock recommendations. Cheap is the word here, it's soon to not be my DD, so on road ride really isn't a priority. Right now it's got the skyjacker hydros that came with the used 3" lift I bought, I don't mind them, something like that would be alright. I was just thinking of going monroe or something from the local parts shop, but I'm not sure if they can just order me a shock based on measurements, or even what the measurements should be for that matter.

I'll get to that this weekend when I put the bumper on.

I wish I could find a deal like that.

check that it's not doing something funny with the ground. Gauges need a god solid ground, and if you're backfeeding voltage somewhere into the dash it would certainly freak out the guage.

I don't, but I do have the JCROFFROAD tie in plates sitting in the living room. I can take a picture and some measurements, should be good.

a cracked flexplate sounds likely. renix will get good gas mileage with the downside of an egr system to maintain. I pulled 22 MPG, 5spd, 1K lbs of cargo, doing 70 on the highway.

his front locker was all fubar. We took it apart on the trailer, couldn't find anything wrong with it, put it back together, still fubar.

I think its been tested enough: That was at Winterfest, that's terry, wheeling backwards. That used to be a limited, so it has a 242 in it, and he's beat the snot out of it.

that second one is what I needed to see. I think I'm going with the wheelwell arches like you've got, but I'm going to bring some rectanguler tube up from that inside rail you have over the frame. Do sheetmeatl on the inside of that, then bring a rail out from the to the same width as the wheel well. That way I can mount my spare axle shafts, hi lift, shovel and some fire extinguishers on the side of the bed and not crush them against trees. I like hugging trees.......with the side of the Jeep.

ouch, 625 is steep. I was going to go with the madrooster setup. Those pieces look a lot nicer than the madrooster ones, but I'm on a budget, as I still need to get the 8.8 in the rear, and the bed built in the fall.

242 used a mechanical diff, I think it will be fine, as it's basically a 231. I'd look for increased wear in the cetner diff from the shock loading, but the 242 is almost as strong as a 231, so I don't think you're gonna break it with the four mighty squirrels.

how much for the adapter and the shaft?

http://www.allchryslerparts.com/

I'll wave if it's not a chick in a stock TJ. That being said, the wrangler guys suck. They always give me crap about it being a truck and not a Jeep. I simply asked them when the last time they could carry 600 pounds of gear and tools on the trail was? I swear, wheeling with me is like wheeling with a hardware store.

I believe I found it. If you've got some more pictures of your flatbed build I'd like those. I'm looking at building a new bed, and working out some interesting ideas in my head. external storage protected from trees is one.

yep, that at least gives me an idea though.