87manche

bull. my 87 leaves the lights on whether off or on, my bro's 88 does as well, so does my 86 and the 90 I had that's part of an option package, my 87 has the courtesy lights as well.

I have 6x9's in the rear. They're alright, they came in the truck, some crappy pioneers. The panel needs to be stiffened, or they rattle.

why not go waggy header? might be easier to graft on and make it look right.

also, if you've got the front steering skid plate, that would have to go as well. and you might want to check that you're not going to get into the swaybar.

jeepco, I've got a spare carrier for the D35, that had 3.73's on it, the spiders are in good shape. You can have it saturday if you want it. it would save you the hassle of tearing it out of the other axle anyway.

cause the link you posted isn't a link. where's the picture hosted?

neightbor has a TJ with 33x10.5's on stock rims. Same backspacing and suspension as us. He can't turn so well. I'd go with the black steelies.

for the brakes, you'll need a passenger side brake hose for the drivers side, so you can use a seperate junction block, rather than the ford part that has the drivers side soft line molded into the brass block. You'll need spicer flange adapter, PN is 2-2-279 I think. Head down to the dealership and get some mopar performance perches. That's about it. I'm in the middle of this swap myself after two dana 35's blew up in a week.

I think I have some sort of sickness. I've got a 91 civic I bought for 200, it needs brake work, and the rockers are a bit rusted in the rear. I have intentions of simply cutting it all out and putting box under it, just because I detest sheetmetal work. only civic with rock rails I bet.

a complete exhaust from my downpipe back cost me $70 at the local pipes place. He reused my cat. it dumps just before the rear axle, from an OEM style muffler. I think it's a walker, don't know. I've vowed to never spend a lot of money on the muffler, cause it's vulnerable with my crap breakover angle.

rock rails, even if it's a daily driver and won't see offroad. Easier to cut out all the cancer and replace it than trying to piece together patch panels.

I had planned on about $1k to three link the rear. I'd likely go with superflex joints since they're easily rebuildable. all of this stuff is real expensive though.

well, I guess you just have to build them to take the weight of the vehicle then.

yeah, kinda upset about that one. I rtvd the cover late sunday night, and ddn't feel like waiting the hour until I could put fluid in it. Had to get a new ubolt in the morning anyway. So, went and got new u bolt, bolted it up, and forgot the gear lube.

I too am planning on linking the rear of the MJ. but, in wanting to keep my bed space and stock tank, I am willing to make the comprimise and go with a 3 link+panhard. I realize that a 4 link is better, but I also think that a 3 link properly setup will still be better than leafs. I had planned on using airbags rather than coils, so I could adjust the ride height based on weight in the bed. I'm like pete, and wheel with 600 pounds of stuff back there. I've not done anything but the preliminary measurements, I think I can make it all fit, but I've not done the math on anti squat and such. it's a far off project.

somebody over on naxja cut up a non winch JCR style bumper and inset a winch plate. It was a nice job, it was in the picture section I believe.

it sure can, in fact they used to have a comanche that had a kit fitted on the website. It had a big doghouse on the hood though for clearance.

not always, a 231 to a flipped d300 is about the same overall length as the stock 231, so the rear DS stays the same, but the front will have to be lengthened. Either way, if you're doing all the work for the cases you might as well go fixed yoke, so you're ordering new shafts. anyway, I've been doing a substantial amount of research on this, and I've gotten with a few other jeepers and the local 4x4 shop. We're gonna make our own plates and homebrew some doublers. My basic plan is to use a 231 front, and either another 231 behind that, or a 203 or 205. I'm not sure that a 231 can stand up to the torque input behind the first one. Some say yes, some say no, at the very least it will be a 231HD case, and the front 231 will get the upgraded plenetaries from an HD case as well.

not always necessary to cut the floor up, and you can lengthen the stock linkage to actuate the front d-shaft in the second case, and use a cable on the dash to actuate the doubler box for the compound low. Of course, if you're doing something with twin sticks you're gonna end up wth customer linkages.

no doubt. but make some scans first.

find the local fire safety shop, they've got an assortment of fire extinguisher mounts that would fit, the ones I was looking at were steel, well built and cheap, like $20.

yeah, but you could disco one side and have an effective 2 low on the trail. Hmm, I like this idea. I try.

well, the first one just checked out one day. I'm sure it had something to do with the locker and 34's. Just a matter of time. The second one, well that was my fault. I finished up late sunday night, had rtv'd the cover, forgot to put fluid in it the next morning. THe housing burned my hand when I touched it after it locked up. Pinion bearings are toast.

yeah, but you could disco one side and have an effective 2 low on the trail.

wow, that sucks. I HAD the MJ driveable for about 20 miles, then the second d35 blew up. have I mentioned I hate d35's? so, I'm done with it, it's gonna sit until I get the honda ready for DD status, and I have the 8.8 ready to go in.