87manche

lifts suck, just cut the sheetmetal ;)

I diagnosed mine pretty easily. I left it in 2 wheel, then grabbed the lugs of the TSL and tried turning the tire. I could see movement in the frame side of the UCA, and the axle twisted about 1/4". Probably explains my loss of steering wheel center feel ;)

he's right, it's probably a spot of rust on the bead area of the rim. Debead, wire wheel, paint, then use a bit of bead sealant, it will be fine.

25.

that's a screaming deal. I paid $450 for mine on some rock crawler rims, but they had a little more treadwear than that. Those look brand new. I love my pizza cutters, they took me all over flatnasty when the guys with wider tires were having problems in that odd mixture of rock and mud they've got. All your wheeling buddies will make you go last though, cause they dig some serious ruts.

the frame in the rear is a bit pesky, my stock rims actaully hit the wheel weights on the frame it's so tight back there. the 8.8 is for sure gonna need spacers.

nice, I'm planning a swap from the BA10 to an AW4 myself soon, but i plan on using an http://www.awshifting.com style shift kit, cause I'm not sure i want to deal with all the wiring stuff... i might later on if it gets annoying. you know, I was thinking, an AW4 swap with a column shifter and that 4 speed arcade style shifter in the center console would be pretty freaking sweet.

don't degrease the motor over anything you care about, like a nice concrete drive or grass. It will stain/kill anything under it. I killed a nice spot in my parents yard, stayed dead for about 2 years.

you can't splice the HO stuff into the Renix harness. Chryco changed a lot of the sensors and how they operated. You will have to adapt the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body. Jfiscus has done it I believe, so he can pop in here with more details. Basically it seems you notch the renix TPS to fit the HO TB butterfly, and then use some longer bolts to attach it. The temperature sensors and such will all thread in, so just take those off your old head. You may need the PS pump bracket and the matching HO pump, but I think that depends on what year intake you're going to use.

it's not all bad. I did the hondas brakes, my dads brakes, fixed his air handler in the dash (now that's fun, I didn't know human arms could bend that way), did struts on the wife's camry. All last weekend. I feel a bit sore today.

dude, freaking wow. is that a mustang front suspension? what frame is that, or did you start from scratch? Should I have read the thread again for these answers? :D

sounds like fun.

this one doesn't seem to leak or burn anything, but I haven't had it on the road more than 10 miles, so we'll see. The trans shifts hard though. Like a turbo 400 with a shift kit, it's banging into gears. Gonna have to investigate that. I'm afraid to drain it and refill it thoug, because I don't think it was the best cared for, and I've killed transmissions that way. I might try an additive, I hate those things, but my brother had good luck with the lucas one in his AW4 that was shifting hard. but, I'm gonna have less than $500 in it on the road, and that includes plates and 6 months of insurance. So I'm happy that it drives around town. I filled it from dead empty today, took 10 gallons. far cry from the 20 the MJ takes, and I'll probably got farther too!

that's what min does. it's an ugly double pop that I can feel in my feet. I know it's my UCA bushing, cause I can see it moving.

must be renix. ho used a diffent tooth pattern/cps. can't use the ho CPS and flexplate with renix ECU.

uppers can be done with a stout c clamp, plenty of lube and some determination. Just freeze the bushings overnight and with some persuasion they'll go in.

I'd go with control arm bushings before I went with ujoints/ball joints. I toasted one of my upper bushings in MO, that thing makes a wicked clunk clunk when I hit a bump. You can feel it in the floorboards.

you can always go to a skinnier tire then. With enough lift I think you could run 34x9.5's or 33x9.5s and not have to cut it up. if you did SOA in the rear, and 5" to match up fromt I think you could run 33x9.5's on the stock rims and clear everything. Of course that's just conjecture on my part. I just cut the snot out of the front fenders to fit 34x9.5's :D

well, sorry to disappoint, but its still got the stock am/fm radio. Not even a cassette in that b*@$£. but I did get it plated, and I did drive it to work thismorning. So it's gravy. Gots to change the oil, and put some fresh fuel in it.

bullwinkle tv

is this a rear D44? put it under the truck, set the pinion angle and weld new perches on, simple as that. you can get perches from the chryco dealer for like $8. good stuff, made for muscle car guys.

I considered toy axles when I was offered a pair cheap. I had concerns about the strength in the long run. My choice was to put the oh so popular 8.8 in the rear, and wheel with the 8.8 d30 combo until I could do 60's. I only want to do a complete axleswap/new driveshafts/doubler once. they only stand up to 70 horse motors in yotas and samis. But, I'm sure it can be made to work. and you can destroy a perfectly good MJ without taking it apart. The midwest fellas have managed to help me do that in about a year.

well, that's what I was thinkig too.

oh it's ghetto. but at 35 MPG I'll drive the piss out of it.

darwin at work.