87manche

hub centric or lug centric, that's the biggest problem.

I shall clarify, I can hear about 25 miles down the interstate, I've not verified how far the transmit is, but likely in the 8-10 range.

whn you get a new one, tell the glass guy tht you want the rubber gasket from the newer XJ's. It eliminates the metal trim, and the stupid plastic clips, and it's less prone to leakage problems. Not to mention it's easier to put in, so most glass guys are more than happy to accomodate.

I found it much easier to attach the frame side, then deal with the bushing at the axle side. Once you have the measurement you can disconnect the axle side and put it in place.

I've got a RE 1600 waiting for install, I like it very much. Seems beefy, and no more TRE frameside.

my cheap @$$ midland cb and k40 combo reach about 25 miles. I've found that a cheap radio and good antenna can outperform a good radio with a cheap antenna. So if you're gonna save money, do it at the radio, buy a really good antenna.

I'm not much of a "driving by braile" kind of guy, but that rock ring took a pretty substantial hit at flatnasty and it was fine. by substantial I mean "Oh $#!&" and by fine I mean, lightly bent. I'm positive that the stock cover would have been pushed into the ring gear.

I completely agree. I had a window mount that worked like @$$, wouldn't even work in a wooded area, not to useful for trail talk. Now I've got an old school K-40, and that thing reaches out and touches people.

yeah, the MJ does really well at speed. Around town really blows, I usually get around 16, but the highway cruise in 5th is great. That was wth 1K lbs of cargo in the bed, suspension squatted 2 inches in the rear. soon I'll have my civic DD on the road, so the MJ will only see wheeling trips and trips to home depot.

exactly. I get way better mileage with 3.73s than I ever got with 3.07s. I'm turning the 4.0 up a bit, and it's noisier, but you can't argue with 22MPG at 75-80 MPH carrying the load I was in the bed.

yep, start simple. then get hard. THe yellow wire(?, don't have the FSM handy) should have 12V going to it on the coil. check that the ECU is getting power as well. The fusible links are all by the battery, coming off of the start relay post. DOn't forget to check all the grounds. After 20 years it's just slightly possible they've corroded. Pay particular attention to that braided metal strap that goes to the head.

then pull the front driveshaft and take a loook at the cardan joint at the top. After 261K miles in my MJ it wanted rebuilding, and caused a deep driveline vibration at highway speeds. Try driving around without the front DS for a few days to see. Assuming of course it's 4wd. I suspected that my AX-15 was going bad wen I bought the truck, 20K miles later and the damned thing just won't die.

also, if you get a tilt wheel one, you might as well take it apart and loctite the four bolts in the tile mechanism before you install it. They come loose pretty often, and it's a PITA to do in the Jeep. There's a good writeup on el camino central.

space your 231 skid down a little on the frame end, you can drop it down with a piece of 1" square and it will clear. You'll need longer bolts obviously. Same thing that you get with those transfer case drop kits.

use some grease, or a piece of a shop towel over then end of the socket, to grip the bolt. If you drop the bolt into the bellhousing you will likely be taking the trans out to get it.

I did not make this, but it was made for a friend and I got it from him. it's just a ring around the diff, and a piece of 1/4" steel that covers the ring gear. If I hadn't gotten it cheap I would have gone with a full diff cover. Dealing with getting the diff cover, the ring and such all lined up is a PITA when it comes to maintenance. and just because it's in the same album: say hi to rocky.

my 87 has 10 slots, so I think that settles it. changeover in 88.

my biggest b*@$£ with those joints is that they're not serviceable. I'm convinced that if I could have greased those regularly that they would have held up better. Post mortem on both the joints showed that they had simply rusted on the inside, likely from repeated dunkings in water/mud and no new grease to force that nasty out.

I've had really good luck with JVC. Seem solid and all have lasted for some time. I had a cheapo JVC cd player in an escort, lasted 6 years, and still worked when I got rid of the car. Wife has had a midrange JVC in her car for 3 years, not a glitch. I've got a higher end one in the truck, been there a year, and it didn't even skip the CD when I was crawling rocks at flatnasty.

for some of us, 2 hours is worth the 60, adn they come with all the hardware you need. What can I say though, I won them at a raffle.

yes, the 4.0 shares the same bellhousing as the 258, and the AMC v8's.

torque curve is easily solved with lower gears. Seeing as Jag is now part of ford I bet you could find a 4WD application for that motor, or it shares a BH bolt pattern with something. They don't make motors for just one automobile anymore.

next time you're out and about pete, I've got a set of 15x7 wheels you can have. find me one of your insano tire deals on some 31x10.5 highway tires, I need new street shoes!

no spark is almost always a failed or failing CPS. disconnect the CPS, clean the connector and then put it back together again. Likely the 3 month sit caused some corrosion.

I HAD some brute force u-joints. three to be exact, two have been replaced in just under a years time. both driveshaft u-joints got ate up, hoping that the axleshaft one holds up, I hate doing axle u-joints.