Eagle

Yes. Pulls to the right, fairly strongly, regardless of what tires are on the front.

Since my 2000 XJ was repaired after the fender bender two years ago, it has had a constant pull to the right. I know the body shop had the front end aligned, and I'm sure that's what created the problem -- but I didn't get a before and after report, so I have no idea what they did. The steering wheel is straight, so it's not the drag link. Camber can't be adjusted, so it's not camber. So we're down to toe-in or caster. The tires aren't wearing funny, and toe-in doesn't usually cause a constant pull to one side, so unless someone tells me otherwise I think I've ruled out toe-in. So I'm basically down to caster. If it's constantly pulling to the right, which side to I want to change, and do I want to increase the caster or (if possible) decrease it?

A 79 Wagoneer was a full-size. The hubs will be 6-bolt.

That's why the flex pipe. It takes strain off the header.

Makes sense. So I should probably revert to letting the answering machine take all calls.

For a long time I stopped answering my telephone (landline) because the overwhelming percentage of calls were marketing. I've started answering some calls lately, and I don't understand what's happening. I answer a call, and all I hear is several seconds of dead microphone, then a click and the connection is broken. They aren't the typical robo calls, because there's no canned announcement that starts playing as soon as I pick up. These are strictly just dead air, then disconnect. Has anyone else experienced this? Do you have any idea what it's about?

Looks like there's no front axle. $500 tops.

In the video they made reference to a 7,000 pound tongue weight, which was obviously an error. Even if they meant tow weight, I don't think a regular Wrangler chassis could be rated that high. To be honest, even though I like the 2-door much better than I like the "Gladiator," I wouldn't buy one. If I were to buy a new (or nearly-new) pickup, I would want an extended cab. The only reason I bought an XJ in 1988 rather than an MJ was that the MJ didn't have an extended cab. I needed a daily driver, and I wanted some space behind the driver's seat for things like a briefcase or a suitcase large enough for a long weekend. The standard cab just didn't (and doesn't) cut it.

I'm glad you mentioned those knuckles, because I have two or three of those axles in a pile that I was getting ready to scrap.

It'll never happen. It's too close to what Jeep people want, and FiatChrysler (or whatever they call themselves these days) aren't interested in selling Jeeps to Jeep people. They want to sell expensive toys to the yuppies.

Perches and shock mounts are typically welded to the axle tubes, not to the differential housing. It's extremely unlikely that you would (or could) warp a tube by welding something to it. The factory spring perches certainly look like they were welded with continuous beads, not a bunch of spot or tack welds. Welding a brace (or anything) to the differential housing is a different matter. Those are cast iron (or cast steel), and that requires different welding techniques (that I consider to be over my head).

Incorrect. The XJ didn't start using a rubber seal until years after the end of the Comanche. All the windshield glass is the same for both the XJ and the MJ. The rubber seal was used only on late XJs, the early XJs used the same stainless steel trim found on the MJs. It is possible to use the rubber seal when installing a new windshield in an MJ, and I recommend doing so ... but it's not necessary. And the rubber is trim, not a gasket. It doesn't do anything to prevent leaks.

You said "trucks," so I didn't include my original '88 Cherokee. 287,000 miles and still running (when I get around to replacing the leaking injectors).

To me, a pump that doesn't shut off combined with no fuel suggests a pump that's not pumping. The regulator on the Renix models, IIRC, allows over-pressure to be routed back to the fuel tank. The pump is supposed to shut off when the fuel system reaches a pre-set pressure. That's why the pump shuts off after a few seconds of priming when you go to start the engine. It's not on a timer -- it reacts to the pressure in the system. So ... the engine won't start, and the fuel pump won't stop. Possible correlation, which is why I suggested checking for pressure in the fuel rail.

Yes, that would work. One path to ground is as good as another -- as long as it doesn't run through you (or your wife). Just remember that there's no way (that I can think of) to make this work-around have ground fault protection. It's not required unless you're using the welder on an outdoor receptacle, but it's never a bad idea. That said, I have a 120-volt (note: 110-volt and 120-volt get used interchangeably. It was 110 volts when I was a kid, but I think if you put a voltmeter on one of your circuits today it would show 120 volts) hobby welder that I run on a garage outlet. The house was built in 1950, so about 50 years before the advent of GFI protection. It works. Solid wire or stranded -- it doesn't really matter. Romex is solid. Stranded will be much more flexible and easier to handle and to coil up when the welder isn't being used.

Check pressure at the fuel rail. If the pump doesn't build pressure, it won't shut off because the regulator won't tell it to shut off.

I've had a shimmy in the front of the 2000 XJ Sport. Now that the weather has broken, by playing musical wheels I have narrowed the culprit down to the left front. Next step is to check the balance, but my friend who has been my go-to guy for tire balance recently left the VW dealership and switched to a different profession. So I no longer have someone who has free access to a Hunter machine and, more importantly, knows how to use it. So I decided to start by checking it with a bubble balancer. I've had one for close to 60 years, but I haven't used it for at least 40 years -- if not more. It took awhile, but I found it this afternoon. Only to discover that the new alloy wheels are laid out differently than the old steel wheels I used to work with. My balancer has a small platform with three cone-shaped protrusions for the lug holes in the wheel. Problem -- if I try to set the wheel on the balancer good side up, the tire rests on the floor long before the wheel mounting surface can contact the little cones. If I try to put the wheel on back side up -- the raised spokes hit the platform before the wheel can rest on the cones. So I guess my trusty old wheel balancer is getting retired. I have one of these on order from Amazon: It'll be interesting when it gets here and I try it out.

Hmmm ... looks like a hybrid between the "skinny" and "fat" ones above.

The "skinny" stalk is the correct one.

As 1989commanche and Manche757 have commented, you have a 30-amp, 125/250 volt receptacle, wired for 250 volts. You can make up a patch cord and put a standard 120-volt receptacle on the other end. 1989comanche suggests buying a 30-amp dryer cord and just putting a receptacle end on that. That will work, BUT ... you will then have a cord that has two hot wires running the full length, and you'll only be using one of them. You will have to isolate the unconnected end of that unused hot wire very well, and be sure that it can never come in contact with anything. The other issue is that the receptacle you have isn't grounded, and the plug for your welder is probably a grounding (3-wire) plug. You need to come up with some way of making a connection for the grounding electrode in the welder plug. For this reason, I would go in an opposite direction for the patch cord. I would make up my own. You will need the correct plug -- it's called a NEMA 10-30 plug (and the corresponding receptacle is the same -- https://www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp ). Your new 120-volt cord will have three wires -- black, white, and either green or bare. Black is hot -- connect that to either of the slanted contacts in the NEMA 10-30 plug. White is neutral -- connect that to the L-shaped contact in the NEMA 10-30 plug. Do not connect anything to the second slanted contact. That completes the electrical power to your patch cord. But you still have to worry about completing the ground. If you use 12-gauge, 12-2 Romex cable or 10-gauge, 10-2 Romex cable for your patch, it should be yellow. Inside the yellow outer jacket it will have an insulated black wire, an insulated white wire, and a bare ground wire. That's fine as long as the bare ground stays in the jacketed cable, since normally the ground wire doesn't carry any current. However, if you have to split that off to make a ground connection, you probably don't want a length of bare wire running to who knows where, since in the event of a short circuit at the welder that bare wire will become energized. If it contacts anything between the welder and the ground connection -- the stray current will try to ground through whatever that bare conductor touches. You need to identify where you can make a connection to ground, then connect from that bare conductor in the Romex to the ground. I would do that by buying a sufficient length of 12-gauge or 10-gauge green-insulated wire (green is for ground -- black is for hot, white is for neutral) and splicing that to the bare conductor at the NEMA 10-30 plug and then running it to wherever you can make a connection to ground. I doubt that your hobby welder is a 30-amp unit. It's probably designed for a 20-amp circuit, in which case 12-gauge wire is all you need for the draw. BUT -- if the dryer circuit has a 30-amp fuse, then you should use 10-gauge wire for your patch cable because 30-amp circuits should be wired with 10-gauge wire.

Please post the picture. It'll help.

Check. Check. Check. Check. My house was built in 1950 and it satisfies all those requirements -- and a lot more. The original setup was a fuse panel such as Knucklehead described. It finally started creating brownouts, so I replaced it with a Seimans breaker panel, then a few years later I added a subpanel to get a few more spaces for things like a generator tie-in and a welder outlet. All work done by me, to code. I found a questionable connection to ground when the satellite TV guys were doing their install. And the way they wanted to do it wasn't to code. So I kicked them out, prewired the house with coax to have it done right, and installed new grounding rods to ensure that the service was properly grounded, and then that the satellite dish was grounded and that ground was properly bonded to the primary grounding electrode system. In general (unless local rules dictate otherwise) a homeowner who lives in the house can perform his/her own wiring, but it still requires a permit and an inspection. Knucklehead isn't the owner, so he can't [legally] do it himself. And, since the owner doesn't live in the house, the owner can't do it, either (unless he's a licensed electrician). I like the suggestion of the patch cord from the 220 outlet to provide a 110 outlet for the small welder. But I have a concern: electrically, that works. 220 volt circuits have two "hot" wires, and the circuit is 220 hot-to-hot and 110 from either hot to neutral. All the 110 volt circuits in a house are 110 from one side or the other of the 220 volt input from the street to neutral. The concern is that with a patch cable like that you're running a single pole circuit off a 2-pole fuse or breaker. I would say go ahead and make up the cable, but test it by intentionally shorting it or overloading it to verify that it trips properly. Making an extension cord doesn't require an electrician or a permit, but replacing or adding an outlet does. Also: The electrical code is not retroactive. A house built in 1950 does not have to meet the 2019 electrical code to be legal, it only has to conform to whatever code was current at the time the house was built. Any repairs or replacements must meet the 1950 code. Any new work (added circuits or additional outlets on an existing circuit) have to meet the new code.

I would be very worried about 30-amp fuses for the domestic circuits, because I've never EVER seen or heard of a house wired for 30-amp circuits. 30-amp circuits require 10-gauge wire. Most houses are wired with 14-gauge wire (15-amp circuits). In newer houses, the electrical code requires a 20-amp circuit in the kitchen, and a 20-amp circuit for the washer (IIRC). One of the problems with fuses is that when somebody frequently overloads a circuit and blows the fuse (which is what's supposed to happen), the occupants too often just stick in a larger fuse and think they've "solved" the problem. They haven't solved it. The fuse is to protect the wiring. Put in too large a fuse, and now the wires can overheat and cause a fire. Post a photo of the 220-volt outlet you have, and the 220-volt welder you're looking at. BTW -- congratulations on the wedding.

I've been told that it's illegal to install used seatbelts in a vehicle used on public highways. I don't know if that's federal law or state law, but I do know that no junkyard in Connecticut will sell a seatbelt.