Eagle

Correct.

DON'T DO THE QUAD LIGHTS! Those XJ Wagoneer quads are an oddball lamp that's hard to find. Worse, though, is that they put out woefully little light, and there's no upgrade path for them because they don't fit enough vehicles to make a halogen replacement light effective for the vendor. Do an older rectangular headlamp Waggy nose if you have to go the Waggy route. Personally, if I were going to change the nose on a Comanche I'd update to the new Cherokee (97+) look.

The older voltmeters aren't very accurate. As noted, corrosion in the circuit gets in the way. My '88 Cherokee shows about 12.5 volts on the gauge, but a voltmeter on the battery shows about 13.9 volts. Before you start shelling out big bucks for an alternator you may not need, check the actual output at the battery.

Used is an okay way to go for an older vehicle. Jeep used the 2.5L engine in the Wranglers right up through 2003 or 2004, in the Cherokee through 2000, and also Chrysler used it in the Dakota pickups for several years, so you can search other vehicles for the same engine. The throttle body injection was used by Jeep from 1986 thru 1990 only, but the base engine was the same right to the end. If you buy a newer one, use it as a long block and put on your manifolds to keep the same injection. The newer multi-port is more powerful, but as noted then you would have to rewire the entire vehicle. You'll have to use your old flex plate and CPS, too. The newer Mopar ECU/injection/ignition uses a different type of CPS that's not compatible with your Renix electrical system, and the newer flex plate won't trigger your old CPS.

AFAIK there was no optional, larger tank for the SWB MJ. The LWB had two tank sizes, the SWB only came with an 18-gallon tank.

Pete, what year were those numbers for? I know I got the number I quoted directly from an '86 Owners manual, and it doesn't match any of your numbers.

The big Ford coils won't flex -- period. Full-size pickups weigh a lot more than MJs, so the springs are much stiffer.

(1) Have the front tires rebalanced. (2) Check the condition of the front hub/bearing units. I suspect one may be worn. (3) Check the torque on your lug nuts! I had the same exact problem on the '88 MJ when I swappped on a pair of almost new 235/75 Pirellis on factory alloys. Right turns at 50 or 55 MPH would set off massive death wobble. I took off those tires and wheels, put on a pair of 215/75 BFGs I had on steel rims, and the problem is gone. I need to look more carefully at those rims. They were take-offs from a wreck and appeared good, but I suspect either balance, or physical damage to the rims.

My owners manual says 3093. PM responded to.

21 out of 25 here

Good question. That's why I refer to the lowest section, the part that bolts to the floor pan, as the "pedestal." It's what the seat sits on top of. CW, as far as I know the rockers were never an "option." They were included with the seats on the early year XJs, and Chrysler eliminated them to save money (naturally). My '88 XJ is a Pioneer, which is only one step up from the base model, and it has the rockers. The side bolsters on my Pioneer seats are nowhere near as full or wide as the ones on those seats you got. Check out some XJ Sports and I think you'll find that the seats don't look like yours. Yours are from about an 87 - 90 Laredo, I think. Do they have the rocking chair feature? (Of course, if someone else converted them to the MJ, whoever did it might have removed the rocking chair hardware.)

I'm more of a manual tranny guy. In general, I think any of the "name" brands of Dexron (III or IV, whatever they're selling these days) will be fine in an AW4. Just be sure you don't put in ATF (forget even what it's called. ATF-3???) formulated for Chrysler trannies -- it's the kiss of death in an AW4.

Holy moly! You used RED Loc-Tite? What'cha gonna do when you need to change a hub/bearing unit, or replace the rear brake shoes? I think I would have started with purple, and maybe progressed up to blue if the purple didn't work. I don't use red on anything.

Correct. The trucks with the gas tank skid don't have the studs on the hanger straps. Those are for the plastic gravel shield that the non-skid plate trucks get. The bolts along the rear of the skid, into the frame, go into thread-serts (a.k.a. riv-nuts). Most likely you'll have to grind or drill them out anyway, because the bolts rust into the thread-serts, then when you try to unscrew them the inserts just spin in the holes in the frame. They're great for assembling the trucks on the assembly line, but an idiotic idea overall. Impossible to service in the field.

It probably isn't your tank that's leaking. I replaced the tank in my '87, drove to the gas station to enjoy my first fill-up in over a year -- and was astonished to find gasoline pouring out onto the pavement as I pumped. What happens is that the hard tubes for the gas lines break loose from the mounting plate where they go through the plate into the tank. Replacement fuel pumps don't include the mouting flange, so a new fuel pump probably isn't the answer. I saw a post by someone (don't remember if it was here or on NAXJA) who just epoxied around the tubes and solved the problem. Once the ground here dries up a bit I'll do that to mine. Fill yours to the point where it starts to drip, then crawl under and take a careful look at where it's coming from.

No, they didn't. The Chrysler 8.25 axles in the XJs have the same length pinion as a Dana 44. Comparing an '87 XJ with AW4 and Dana 35 against a 95 XJ with AW4 and 8.25 axle, the driveshaft out of the '87 was 5/8" longer, to compensate for the shorter pinion on the dana 35.

Those seats that cwlongshot has are not Sport seats. Those are from an early Laredo or Limited. Probably Laredo, as I think all the Limited steats were leather.

It can't happen at all. Something has to trigger death wobble, and a loose track bar does not do that. I drove my '88 XJ through an entire winter with a very sloppy track bar because it was too cold and snowy to change it, and never experienced even a hint of death wobble. If a worn track bar "causes" death wobble, I should have had it.

Welcome to the fold, brother. We'll have to arrange an MJ meet & greet at the transfer station some Saturday morning :)

If it were mine I'd probably be asking $2000 (maybe a bit more) and not settle for a penny less than $1500.

Good grief! About a year ago I paid $400 for a cap almost identical to that and thought I was getting a great deal. You STOLE that thing.

Yes

First check wheel balance. My friend, Erich, just bought an '88 MJ. He found death wobble driving it home the night we picked it up. The track bar is badly worn so he's planning to replace that, but he works in a VW dealership as a shop foreman so he took the truck in Monday and checked the front tires. He said they were horribly out of balance. A few ounces later, his death wobble is gone. The truck still wanders, so he does need to replace the track bar, but the track bar was not "causing" the death wobble as some people insist it can do. Hint: it can't.

That's the only way to go. Lemme see, I'm at seven MJs at the moment -- how can I explain that to the wife in terms that will stifle the argument? (Especially when currently five of the seven are hors de combat.)

I have never heard of Sach, but LUK makes (made) the factory clutches. I've heard of too many people having new clutch slave cylinders blow out after three to six months. For clutch hydraulics I buy only from a Jeep dealer.