Eagle

Regardless of axle, XJ u-bolts are 12mm (just under 1/2") and MJ u-bolts are 14mm (closer to 9/16" but not quite). I get all my u-bolts custom bent at a local spring shop, and I have settled on using 1/2" for everything. If you don't have a spring shop nearby, try Husky Spring http://www.huskyspring.com/

No, it won't work. The rear wheel arch on the MJs is larger (both higher and wider/longer) than the XJ. I have a pair of 2-door XJ quarter panels I clipped off a wrecked XJ hoping to use them on a SWB MJ, but nothing lines up. I could make them work ... sort of ... but it would never look really "right," and it would involve a LOT of work.

I see the auction has been cancelled because of "an error in the listing." What a load of bovine excrement. The 30th vehiucle prodiced in 1985 and it originally had a 4.0L engine? Unlikely -- if Jeep had had the 4.0L by then, they would have been selling them. And there weren't any SWB MJs until the 1987 model year. Plus, the early (V6) XJs and MJs didn't have 231 transfer cases, they had 207s. The Dana 44 axle WAS available in other than the metric ton package, you just had to order it. I have an '87 SWB with a Dana 44. However -- the Dana 44 wasn't offered until the 1987 model year. The optional axle in the '86 MJ was the AMC MOdel 20. I won't call this guy a liar, but I don't think he's telling the truth. I'd really like to get a look at this paperwork he claims to have.

'88 MJ 4.0L 5-speed. I get about 18 MPG around town with a high of 22 MPG highway (at legal speeds). A friend just got 23 MPG on a 300 mile trip at 75 MPH (he says -- I'm skeptical). '88 XJ 4.0l 5-speed, even with 255,000 miles on it I get about 22 or 23 MPG highway. Best ever was 28 MPG when it was a couple of years old. A 2.5L 5-speed will probably deliver slightly better gas mileage overall, unless you live in mountains, but if you like to go anywhere in a hurry you won't be happy driving it.

There are four set screws inside, under the lock plate, that need to be tightened. There are a couple of web pages that have illustrated write-ups on how to do it. I thought I had at least one of them bookmarked, but that must have been on a different computer. Log onto www.naxja.org and post the question in the OEM Tech forum. I'm sure someone will have the link.

Man is that web site (or that article) out of date. Accurate Power has been out of business for a couple of years. You may think you have all the internals, but if they aren't properly matched you WILL have severe pre-ignition problems. I suggest that you get on the NAXJA forum (www.naxja.org) and contact Dr. Dyno. Dino Savva is a doctor who runs a stroked XJ and has done CONSIDERABLE research into what's needed to make them run well. You could also contact Bob Salemi, in Woonsocket, RI. He's also on NAXJA, but I don't know how frequently he visits the forum. he runs a pro stock drag MJ with a stroker, and his daily driver is an XJ with a stroker.

I think you'll be happy. 31s through 31" tires has the exact same final drive ratio as stock tires with 3.54 gears. That's what I was running in my '88 and I was happy with it. There were a couple of instances off-road when I might have preferred 4.10s, but overall the 3.73 setup has been very satisfactory.

The 8.8 is about 1-1/2 inches narrower than the MJ (and XJ) axle. With stock rims, the rear tires on a stock axle are very close to the leaf springs, so the ONLY way you can run an 8.8 is to use spacers, or to run wheels with considerably less backspacing than stock. Then if you run the same aftermarket wheels in front, they stick out too far -- so spacers are the better solution. Keep in mind, though, that decent structural-grade spacers that are strong enough to bet your life on cost about $125 each.

The ones with 9" brakes are newer, and are the c-clip variety. The older AMC-vintage have the 10" brakes and are not c-clip. Personally, I prefer the older ones, both because I don't like the c-clip design and because I think the 10" brakes work better (even though they are 10x1.75, not 10x2.5 like on the Dana 44s). Yes, you can use an ABS axle in a non-ABS vehicle.

What did you use for the flares? Are those off a Liberty?

Get on the NAXJA forum (www.naxja.org) and look for Jeep-n-John (I'm not sure if that's exactly how he spells it)

What seems to be the going price for an XJ Dana 44 rear axle, removed and delivered (not u-pull prices)? Has anyone encountered one recently?

Rusty's business model is an enigma, and his service is very sporadic. I know several people in my NAXJA chapter who have bought various items from him and never had a problem. I know some who have encountered nothing except problems, and who will never EVER buy another Rusty's product. Then there's the third group, who have had problems but they call and someone down there gives 'em a yarn and promises to make it all right, and they think Rusty is the greatest guy in the known universe. My own view is -- if he's such a great guy and good businessman, why doesn't he just be upfront when he's out of stock, rather than lie about when it'll ship? Why does he sell track bars with Chinese tie rod ends that wear out in less than a year on pavement, when for a dollar or two more he could use TRW or Moog TREs and have 'em last five times as long? Why does his powder coating rust if left outdoors for more than a few days? Doesn't he know it rains in a lot of the United States? Why do his springs, and basically ONLY his springs, have a reputation for sagging within a couple or three months? Heck, with Rubicon Express people complain about the opposite -- the springs are so stiff they almost never settle into the advertised height unless you run a heavy winch bumper AND winch. P. T. Barnum had it right ...

That sounds more correct. I know they aren't the same on both ends. So, back to the original question: what this says is, if you want to go to 3.54s you need to replace the rear carrier, if you want to go to 3.73s or 4.10s you need to replace both carriers.

Not easily, you won't. Remember that the MJ, even the short wheelbase, is about a foot longer bwteen the wheels than an XJ. XJ cables and brake assembly won't be long enough without some creative engineering on your part.

A lot of folks in NAXJA are happy with Rock Krawler springs. And a lot of people in NAXJA have reprted that Rough Country springs (coils, mind you) have BROKEN when wheeling. I would be cautious of buying from any vendor that seems proud to be selling and installing junk. You can buy direct from Rock Krawler and I think their prices are good. I don't know anyone who HASN'T bought their Rock Krawlers direct.

Look at the routing of the speedo cable. If there are any sharp bends, it can cause the cable to "whip." If it seems to be pulled tight around any corners or bends, try to move it one way or the other to take up slack in one place and create a smoother radius at the bend.

6-cyl 5-speed. It's 3.07 There are two different ring gear thicknesses, depending on ratio, so changing the ratio might require a new carrier as well as new gears. To further complicate your issue, the carrier break isn't between the same two ratios for the front as it is for the rear. I went from 3.07 to 3.73. I know I put in a new rear carrier but I went to a TrueTrac so that was going to happen anyway. I'm sorry, but I don't remember now if I had to change the front carrier or not.

I don't know if it's still the case, but awhile back (a couple of years), Rusty's was famous/notorious for sending fake tracking numbers, or somehow getting tracking numbers in advance of making the shipment. So the customer would have a tracking number that showed the item was in AL, and the item was actually either sitting in Rusty's warehouse or hadn't even been fabricated yet.

The cables are probably rusted. The most positive fix is to replace the cables. Most likely it's the two cables from the adjuster block back to the wheels. They aren't that expensive and you can get them at Auto Zone and Advance Auto/Shucks/Checker. It might be a special order, though.

I've been wrong before, and will probably be wrong at least one more time before I die. I know the 88 has a single hydra connector that snaps into the back of the radio. My recollection is that up through 87 the radios used two or three plugs to get everything connected. If the color coding is the same, though, I can look up the colors in the 88 electrical manual.

I wish I could help but my wiring manual is for 1988, and I'm 95% certain they did the radios very differently in 87 than in 88.

Or if you got both they made the panel to the right an active panel rather than a dummy. But I've yet to encounter an MJ in which the right panel wasn't a dummy.

Detours stuff is usually OVERbuilt. I'd feel comfortable towing with a bumper he made. Usually if a bumper will stand up to a snatch using a 20-foot strap with the vehicle stuck in deep mud, it'll tow a Greyhound bus. Dynamic loads are typically 10x static loads.

The panel to the left of your steering column should have two knockouts for switches. One will be used by the fogs. What else is there? The "panel" on the right isn't really a panel on MJs -- it's a dummy that's plastic riveted to the dash bezel. You can get the actual switch mounting pod from a wrecked XJ and cut the dummy filler plate out of the MJ bezel, but why bother if you already have a place to put it?