Eagle

A lot of folks in NAXJA are happy with Rock Krawler springs. And a lot of people in NAXJA have reprted that Rough Country springs (coils, mind you) have BROKEN when wheeling. I would be cautious of buying from any vendor that seems proud to be selling and installing junk. You can buy direct from Rock Krawler and I think their prices are good. I don't know anyone who HASN'T bought their Rock Krawlers direct.

Look at the routing of the speedo cable. If there are any sharp bends, it can cause the cable to "whip." If it seems to be pulled tight around any corners or bends, try to move it one way or the other to take up slack in one place and create a smoother radius at the bend.

6-cyl 5-speed. It's 3.07 There are two different ring gear thicknesses, depending on ratio, so changing the ratio might require a new carrier as well as new gears. To further complicate your issue, the carrier break isn't between the same two ratios for the front as it is for the rear. I went from 3.07 to 3.73. I know I put in a new rear carrier but I went to a TrueTrac so that was going to happen anyway. I'm sorry, but I don't remember now if I had to change the front carrier or not.

I don't know if it's still the case, but awhile back (a couple of years), Rusty's was famous/notorious for sending fake tracking numbers, or somehow getting tracking numbers in advance of making the shipment. So the customer would have a tracking number that showed the item was in AL, and the item was actually either sitting in Rusty's warehouse or hadn't even been fabricated yet.

The cables are probably rusted. The most positive fix is to replace the cables. Most likely it's the two cables from the adjuster block back to the wheels. They aren't that expensive and you can get them at Auto Zone and Advance Auto/Shucks/Checker. It might be a special order, though.

I've been wrong before, and will probably be wrong at least one more time before I die. I know the 88 has a single hydra connector that snaps into the back of the radio. My recollection is that up through 87 the radios used two or three plugs to get everything connected. If the color coding is the same, though, I can look up the colors in the 88 electrical manual.

I wish I could help but my wiring manual is for 1988, and I'm 95% certain they did the radios very differently in 87 than in 88.

Or if you got both they made the panel to the right an active panel rather than a dummy. But I've yet to encounter an MJ in which the right panel wasn't a dummy.

Detours stuff is usually OVERbuilt. I'd feel comfortable towing with a bumper he made. Usually if a bumper will stand up to a snatch using a 20-foot strap with the vehicle stuck in deep mud, it'll tow a Greyhound bus. Dynamic loads are typically 10x static loads.

The panel to the left of your steering column should have two knockouts for switches. One will be used by the fogs. What else is there? The "panel" on the right isn't really a panel on MJs -- it's a dummy that's plastic riveted to the dash bezel. You can get the actual switch mounting pod from a wrecked XJ and cut the dummy filler plate out of the MJ bezel, but why bother if you already have a place to put it?

Actually, for 31.10.50s the stock steel rims would be a far better choice than the alloy rims. With stock backspacing, the tires will fit up inside the fenders when the suspension compresses. With the alloys that have less backspacing, the tires won't stuff, they'll hit the flares when the suspension compresses. To get around that, you'll have to extend the bump stops considerably, which limits your suspension travel. That's not a major issue on pavement, but it sort of defeats some of the purpose of lifting if you go off-road.

I have a factory-built hitch/bumper that's only rated for 3,500 pounds. On another MJ I have a Putnam Class 3 hitch that's rated for 5,000 pounds, and it tucks up pretty well behind a fey aftermarket replacement bumper. Putting a ball on a standard step bumper is a very light-duty solution. My vote goes to the dedicated hitch.

Yes, they came from the factory with big, rectangular off-road lights. The switch goes in the switch panel to the left of the steering column and is the same type switch the factory used with fog lights. I'd have to check to see where the relay was mounted, but unless you're looking for restoration accuracy that's not an issue. They used a relay -- mount it where it works for you.

I ran 31x10.50s on stock 7" steel rims, and I can still see the marks where tyey rubbed the insides of the rear wheel wells. A 10.5" tire on the stock rims is also VERY close to the leaf springs, so if you convert to an 8.8 you WILL need to use spacers. Whether you use them equally on each side or put it all on one side is up to you, but there's no way in the workd you can run those tires on stock rims with an axle narrower than the stock MJ rear axle. As to the AAL, unless you feel you must get lift and want to use the extra MJ main leaves for that reason, I think using XJ main leaves as AALs is a better solution. You'll gain additional capacity with minimal lift. I'll know just how much in the near future, because I plan to do it on an '89 MJ as soon as my leg injury heals (I dropped an axle on it).

MOST of the 4-cyl XJs and MJs were 4.10s, but in the early years (encompassing most of the MJ run) that wasn't as consistent as during the last years of the XJ, when ALL 4-cylinders were 4.10 regardless of transmission, options, or any other considerations. A 4-cyl MJ could also be 4.56, 3.73, 3.54 or even 3.31. You really need to verify. It isn't safe to assume.

That's a really nice fix-up, but are you sure that's a tailgate protector and not a side rail protector?

i wonder what would happen if i hooked mine up to a pressure washer?? :eek: hehe That's the right idea. I have had three Cherokees professionally rust-proofed (by people I know and trust, not just any fly-by-night operation or dealership add-on), and even with a new vehicle the prep was a pressure washing. When I go back for an annual inspection & respray, it's the same drill -- pressure wash, air dry, inspect, spray.

Yes, it'll work. Both engines shipped with the same trannies from the factory. The original bell housing should bolt right up.

I don't have a clue about the low fuel warning. The problem is probably in the sending unit, which is in the tank. Sounds like the previous owner "solved" the problem by removing the bulb and socket. The speedo problem is probably a dry cable. With the gauge cluster out, you should be able to pull the cable up out of the sleeve and lube it with something. If you have a can of LubriPlate, that's what I would suggest. Since you probably don't have LubriPlate, just use white spray grease from the parts house.

You can swap the entire automatic with transfer case, but you can't use the '92 flex plate. The ring gear that triggers the CPS has a different tooth spacing and pattern for the Chrysler system than what was used in the Renix (87 - 90) system. Find a Crown dealer and you should be able to get a new flex plate for around $60. Heck, if I were doing the swap I'd want a new flex plate just for insurance.

The MJ you are talking about is the '90 Eliminator, right? All Eliminators were sold with bucket seats and long consoles. I believe '90 was the first year, and in the first year the Eliminators were all 2WD so if you have a '90 with 4WD, it was probably converted. VIN Decoder The third digit indicates the vehicle type. C="MUlti Purpose Vehicle" (XJ). T=MJ 4th digit indicates engine type: H=2.5L TBI, I'm finding conflicting codes for the 4.0L 5th digit is transmission/transfer case: L=5-speed w/ 231 x-fer case; W=5-speed 2WD; B=auto, floor shift w/231; E=auto, column shift w/231 6th and 7th digits are body type. I need to research the MJ codes, what I have here at the moment is an XJ FSM. Extrapolating from some vehicle titles I have here, it looks like 36=LWB/2WD; 66=LWB/2WD; 63=SWB/4WD; 64=SWB/2WD (info not perfect -- needs work) 8th digit is trim package: 2=Pioneer, 3=Chief, 4=Laredo, L=Pioneer 2WD, M=Laredo 2WD. Don't have a code for Eliminator 10th digit is MODEL year of manufacture: G=1986; H=1987; J=1988; K=1989

Or "destructive" :nanner: It all depends on your point of view.

I was about to test out the awesome power Pete has delegated to me as a moderator and see if I can sticky this link -- but then I looked at it. Folks, that factory specs page is SOOOOO full of misinformation, if you bookmarked it I sincerely recommend that you remove the bookmark from your browser. Rough guess -- I'd say at least 50% of the specifics are incorrect.

The 'L' word vehicle is not a Jeep. It's a DaimlerChrysler grocery getter SUV wannabe masquerading behind a Jeep name plate. It's more of a Dodge car than a Jeep vehicle. Doesn't even have a Jeep engine in it. (Of course, the next generation Wranglers won't have Jeep engines, either. But they will have solid axles, at least)

Those mounts are expensive. Shim it. You don't need much clearance. Take out the bolts, insert one or two flat washers at each bolt location, and button it up again.