Eagle

All TJ front axles are low pinion. Your best bet would be to find a front axle out of a 97, 98 or 99 XJ. That will still be high pinion (the XJ went to low pinion in 2000) and will have the larger u-joints. XJs from about 92 and newer will also have the larger u-joints if they had ABS.

Leaning in at the top would be negative camber. It should by zero, of course. First, visuals can be deceiving. If you haven't had it checked on an alignment machine, you should do so. If you don't want to spring for the cost, park your vehicle on a surface that you know is 100% level, then put an angle finder or carpenters level on the wheel rims (not the tires) to check. Camber is not normally adjustable in a standard alignment, but they make offset balljoints that will correct it by replacing the ball joints.

It's a good strong tranny and the bell housing bolt pattern will bolt to the 4.0L block. The AW4 overdrive ratio is, IIRC, 0.75:1. That means on the highway your RPMs will be approximately 25% more than if you ran an AW4 auto or AX-15 manual tranny with overdrive. If that's a problem, you can run less gear in the axles, but that hurts your crawl ratio off-road.

All TJs use a one-piece shaft on the right side. YJs used the disconnect. XJs with Selec-Trac (the 242 transfer case) and from 1991 and newer are also one piece shafts. You can use any of them, but only the newer ones have the larger u-joints. The disconnect has a seal at the disconnect, which you have to remove. You will probably find that the differential housing on the right side isn't machined to accept a stock seal. If you do enough searching on the Internet (try NAXJA first, I think), there are rumours of various seals that can be made to work. One NAXJA guy pulled his carrier and used a Dremel to machine the right side to accept a stock seal. The shafts are the easy part -- lots of choices, and you don't need to go for expensive aftermarket stuff. The tough part is getting the seal worked out.

Hmmm ... Listing cancelled. Wasn't this the guy who said not to bother asking to "buy it now" because he follows all e-Bay rules? I wonder what happened? I'm betting it wasn't factory. I've never heard of the factory producing any duallies. Could have been a styling studio prototype, but the add-on wheel wells were not integrated with the style of the truck and I cannot imagine the factory having produced something that looked so obviously home-made.

Sounds great. Are those pressures just after a cold start, or after the engine is fully warmed up?

What models are your MJs? And are these rivets and screw holes on the driver's door only, or on both sides? Sounds like driver's door only. If they are just below the window, that sounds like the location where the base for the "flag" style mirror would be. I have an '88 with that style mirror, but I have never removed it to see what's under the base.

I have a pair of stock MJ springs out of an '87. I just measured the one that doesn't have the broken leaf -- 51-3/4" eye-to-eye. That's measured straight line, not along the curve.

Harbor Freight doesn't sell tubing benders, they sell pipe benders. One is specified by inside diameter, the other is specified by outside diameter. The Harbor Freight benders don't work on tube because the mandrels aren't the right size.

An MJ could have come from the factory with any of three styles of mirror. The most common is the one that fills the little triangle at the front corner of the vent window, just like on Cherokees. Except on most MJs this mirror wasn't set up with the little joystick for "manual remore" adjustment -- to adjust you open the window, reach out, and adjust. The real base models came with a single "flag" style mirror on only the driver's door. This mounted just beneath the window with two screws to the sheet metal. There was also an option for "west coast truck" style mirrors -- the big chrome ones with the shiny stainless steel brackets that stand out about 6" beyond the side of the vehicle. These have an upper and lower mount, two holes for each. Sounds like that's what was on your truck at some time in the past.

The Rancho suspension catalog has no listing for a complete spring pack for the MJ, but they do have one for the XJ. The XJ spring is listed as 51.50" eye-to-eye. I know MJ springs are 5" longer than XJ springs. I still think Rusty sent you XJ springs, but tomorrow I'll try to get out to the shed and measure up the new XJ packs and old MJ packs I have out there to see which is closer to 53".

Offhand that sounds like an XJ spring, but my memory for those dimensions is fuzzy. Is that 53" in a straight line eye-to-eye, or 53" measured along the arch of the spring?

I got 'em at Auto Zone.

The 2.5L engine was used in the XJ up through 2000, in the Wrangler through 2003 or 2004, and in the Dakota pickups. Any Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep dealer can order you the bearings.

There should be a letter code on the passenger side of the block, near the distributor, that will confirm the bearing size. The factory did use bearings that were .001 under, and as far as I know the dealer is the only source for them. On an old engine you could probably get away with running standard bearings. Gotta be tighter than the ones that were all worn away.

I don't recall if Quadratec has control arm bushings. NAPA does -- but for the cost of replacement bushings, it's almost as cheap and a lot easier to buy Crown replacement control arms. You need a shop press to replace the bushings, and if you don't have a spacer to fit between the sides of the control arms you'll crush the arms. Jeep used four different front sway bar diameters, so you have to measure yours to know what size it is. And if you are concerned about noise and harshness, do NOT go with urethane bushings. They are harder than stock so they transmit more vibration -- and they squeak.

The '92 manual should be fine for a '91. The major changes took place between 1990 (the last year for the original Renix 4.0L engine) and 1991 (the first year for the Chrysler injection and HO version of the 4.0L engine). And it was '91 when the 4-cyl first got multi-port injection.

I also ran 31x10.50s with no lift. There is minor rubbing against the lower control arms when the steering is turned all the way to the limit -- and you'll have that same situation with or without a lift. The cure is to shim the steering stop, but I just learned how far to turn the steering wheel. Either way you lose a bit of turning radius, but it's not critical. The key is to use factory rims. There are NO aftermarket rims with 5-1/4" backspacing. Any aftermarket rims will set the tires farther out. This avoids the lower control arm problem, but results in the tires hitting the flares and/or sheet metal when the suspension compresses.

You do not need a lift to run 31s on a Comanche if you stay with factory rims.

I really haven't a clue what they are worth. I agree that the Lincoln locker is not a selling point, it's a big demerit. And I cannot see anyone paying anywhere close to $1500 for a pair of used axles for an MJ.

on JeepForum, someone said the the 4.10 gears are used with the 2.5L Here under gearing. so which is it? 3.54 or 4.10 4.10s were used with the 2.5L and 5-speed manual tranny. The 4-speeds got 3.54s. I own one and I have double-verified the ratio. That's a good summery of specifications, but I've reviewed it in the past and there are numerous errors.

Bumpy, you can't measure from the ground, because tire size and even tire pressure affect the measurement. You have to measure between the axles and the body. The easiest way, if you still have the stock flares, is to measure from the center of the hubcap (axle centerline) stright up to the bottom edge of the flare. Stock dimension should be 17-1/2" for the front, and about 20" to 20-1/2" for the rear. And you don't need any lift to run 31s on an MJ if you use factory rims.

Why did you make this a poll? This is a question of fact, not opinion. The fact is that doors from early 4-door XJs interchange with the MJ. Somewhere around 95 or 96 Chrysler changed the latches, so be careful if you are looking at more recent years. They will still bolt on and close, but the latches may not match up with the strike on the door post.

The stock u-bolts on an MJ are 14mm. That's not beefy enough for you? It's much larger than even XJs. The XJ u-bolts are 12mm (just a shade smaller than 1/2"). Maybe your truck didn't have the original u-bolts in it when you got it.

The front D30 is a lot better axle than the rear D35. To correct one error someone else posted, the D35 in an 86 will NOT be a c-clip axle. Chrysler started the c-clip nonsense in '90 or '91. Stay with the D35 for now, run 31" tires, and enjoy the woods. The D35 will live fine with 31s if you don't get crazy on the gas peddle.