Eagle

The Rancho suspension catalog has no listing for a complete spring pack for the MJ, but they do have one for the XJ. The XJ spring is listed as 51.50" eye-to-eye. I know MJ springs are 5" longer than XJ springs. I still think Rusty sent you XJ springs, but tomorrow I'll try to get out to the shed and measure up the new XJ packs and old MJ packs I have out there to see which is closer to 53".

Offhand that sounds like an XJ spring, but my memory for those dimensions is fuzzy. Is that 53" in a straight line eye-to-eye, or 53" measured along the arch of the spring?

I got 'em at Auto Zone.

The 2.5L engine was used in the XJ up through 2000, in the Wrangler through 2003 or 2004, and in the Dakota pickups. Any Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep dealer can order you the bearings.

There should be a letter code on the passenger side of the block, near the distributor, that will confirm the bearing size. The factory did use bearings that were .001 under, and as far as I know the dealer is the only source for them. On an old engine you could probably get away with running standard bearings. Gotta be tighter than the ones that were all worn away.

I don't recall if Quadratec has control arm bushings. NAPA does -- but for the cost of replacement bushings, it's almost as cheap and a lot easier to buy Crown replacement control arms. You need a shop press to replace the bushings, and if you don't have a spacer to fit between the sides of the control arms you'll crush the arms. Jeep used four different front sway bar diameters, so you have to measure yours to know what size it is. And if you are concerned about noise and harshness, do NOT go with urethane bushings. They are harder than stock so they transmit more vibration -- and they squeak.

The '92 manual should be fine for a '91. The major changes took place between 1990 (the last year for the original Renix 4.0L engine) and 1991 (the first year for the Chrysler injection and HO version of the 4.0L engine). And it was '91 when the 4-cyl first got multi-port injection.

I also ran 31x10.50s with no lift. There is minor rubbing against the lower control arms when the steering is turned all the way to the limit -- and you'll have that same situation with or without a lift. The cure is to shim the steering stop, but I just learned how far to turn the steering wheel. Either way you lose a bit of turning radius, but it's not critical. The key is to use factory rims. There are NO aftermarket rims with 5-1/4" backspacing. Any aftermarket rims will set the tires farther out. This avoids the lower control arm problem, but results in the tires hitting the flares and/or sheet metal when the suspension compresses.

You do not need a lift to run 31s on a Comanche if you stay with factory rims.

I really haven't a clue what they are worth. I agree that the Lincoln locker is not a selling point, it's a big demerit. And I cannot see anyone paying anywhere close to $1500 for a pair of used axles for an MJ.

on JeepForum, someone said the the 4.10 gears are used with the 2.5L Here under gearing. so which is it? 3.54 or 4.10 4.10s were used with the 2.5L and 5-speed manual tranny. The 4-speeds got 3.54s. I own one and I have double-verified the ratio. That's a good summery of specifications, but I've reviewed it in the past and there are numerous errors.

Bumpy, you can't measure from the ground, because tire size and even tire pressure affect the measurement. You have to measure between the axles and the body. The easiest way, if you still have the stock flares, is to measure from the center of the hubcap (axle centerline) stright up to the bottom edge of the flare. Stock dimension should be 17-1/2" for the front, and about 20" to 20-1/2" for the rear. And you don't need any lift to run 31s on an MJ if you use factory rims.

Why did you make this a poll? This is a question of fact, not opinion. The fact is that doors from early 4-door XJs interchange with the MJ. Somewhere around 95 or 96 Chrysler changed the latches, so be careful if you are looking at more recent years. They will still bolt on and close, but the latches may not match up with the strike on the door post.

The stock u-bolts on an MJ are 14mm. That's not beefy enough for you? It's much larger than even XJs. The XJ u-bolts are 12mm (just a shade smaller than 1/2"). Maybe your truck didn't have the original u-bolts in it when you got it.

The front D30 is a lot better axle than the rear D35. To correct one error someone else posted, the D35 in an 86 will NOT be a c-clip axle. Chrysler started the c-clip nonsense in '90 or '91. Stay with the D35 for now, run 31" tires, and enjoy the woods. The D35 will live fine with 31s if you don't get crazy on the gas peddle.

From the factory service notes handbook: Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail just inboard of the bump stop. For 4WD models this distance should be 9.2 inches, plus or minus 1/2". (For 2WD models the dimension is 8.2" plus/minus 1/2").

Actually, the stock front distance should be 17-1/2" not 16-1/2". Comanches are very different from Cherokees in the rear because the wheel arches are larger -- both wider and higher. I've measured a bunch of fairly stock Comanches (unfortunately, none new), and the average for the rear is around 20" to 20-1/2". So if you still have the stock flares on and you are measuring 20" center-of-axle to bottom of flare -- you have zero lift in the rear.

YO! x 1000 My wife not only hates my Comanches, she's driving what WAS a pristine 2000 XJ Classic, and she also hates that. (And has demonstrated her dislike by trashing the interior and getting the doors banged in in every parking lot she can find). Dunno about you, but I owned the Jeeps before I met the woman who is now my wife. If she makes an issue of it -- she loses.

And if none of the above -- at least heavier. 8) Seriously, although I subscribe to the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" philosophy, I also subscribe to the "anything can be made more bullet-proof" school of thought. I don't change stuff just to change it, but I'm all in favor of making things stronger and more efficient. But I try to keep a rein on it, because often the improvements that add durability and/or convenience also increase the weight, so I try to balance the weight penalty against the perceived benefit.

Between 1990 and 1991, Chrysler changed the temp sensor. They did two things: First, they reversed the polarity, and second they changed the ohm range. At this point I don't recall which was which, but let's assume the Renix (which includes your '89) has a range of 0 thru 88 ohms. 0 ohms is "cold" and 88 ohms is "hot." The range for the 91+ was 5 thru 105 ohms, but it went in reverse, so 5 ohms is "hot" and 105 ohms is "cold." I don't think they reversed the polarity again when they went to OBD-II, so your '97 sensor is reading backwards for your electrical system. You need to find the correct sensor for your year.

I have a Putnam Class III hitch, an unknown brand Class II tube bumper with integrated 2" receiver, and an aftermarket Fey step bumper that's rated for towing (not sure if it's Class I or Class II). None of them use the bottom bolt. All bolt to the sides of the frame rails only.

I think to make it fit you would have to set it lower than stock, and even then I suspect there would have to be some compromises made. Fire up the tape measure.

On the BA10/5 the plug is a recessed square drive. I don't remember what the size is, but it's metric and you can't find a wrench anywhere that fits it anyway. I have a drain/fill plug wrench made by Peugeot that I bought over 20 years ago for working on Renaults that fits, but it may be the only one on this side of the Atlantic. Most folks seem to buy an inexpensive breaker bar and grind down the top to fit.

$27 Canadian, or $27 U.S.? Those e-Bay panels look okay, but not a great deal. $45 for the panel plus $30 for shipping and you're up to $75. Doesn't seem like a great deal to me. Aren't there other sources for these panels? How does this price compare?

I have no idea, and I have tried. I can't find any manufacturer's ID on it. I took it up to the dealer and went over it with their parts guy, because they also sell aftermarket brands. At first we thought Smittybilt, but the Smitties use round tube and these are oval (wider than they are high). The parts guy said he had never seen anything like it, either on a vehicle or in a catalog. It is definitely a factory item, though. Aside from the machine stamped load rating, the tube end caps are molder plastic that snap in. (Or were ... out of 8 holes, when I got it there were only three or four caps left, and I don't know where those have migrated to now.)