Eagle

Having driven all three, I think there is no comparison. The AX-15 is stronger than the BA10/5 but, IMHO, shifts harsher and makes more noise. The NVG3550 has a much lower first gear than either one, is stronger, and shifts incredibly smoothly. It is also quieter when driving. It does have one peculiarity -- when sitting at a light in neutral with your foot off the clutch, there is some "chatter." The techs at my Jeep dealer tell me that's typical and not cause for concern. Sounds almost like a sloppy release bearing, but they tell me it's actually the tranny. It's definately the way to go if you have the $$$ to do it. Remember that it won't mate to a 21-spline transfer case, so you'll need both boxes.

After it has sat for awhile (or after you bleed down the fuel pressure with the Schraeder valve) you should hear the fuel pump run for 5 to 10 seconds when you first turn on the ignition, BEFORE you start to crank. If not, the ballast resistor is probably bad. The good news is ... it isn't really necessary, so for diagnosis purposes you can simply bypass it (jumper the two contacts). No spark, however, suggests that possibly the CPS has decided to go south for the winter.

Stamped right into the metal: Tongue weight 350 pounds Trailer weight 3,500 pounds Is that Class III or only Class II?

What bottom 2 holes? The factory bumper brackets use four bolts through the side and one through the bottom.

Fernando, I spoke with a friend last night who has one of the genuine factory Stage 3 cam kits for the 2.5L engine. He bought it for an MJ but his plans have changed and he now does not plan to use it. He is willing to sell it. If you are interested, send me a PM and I'll get you his e-mail address. If you are interested, all negotiations will be between you and him. I don't want to be a "middle man."

I have two, one is a Putnam brand Class 3 hitch and the other is what appears to be an aftermarket tube bumper incorporating a Class 3 hitch. Both bolt to the side of the frame, using three of the four stock bumper bracket holes. Sorry, I don't have pics available.

I don't have specifications on the carburetor, but my friend in Greece bought it through Rusty's Off-Road in Alabama. Rusty's has a web site, and perhaps someone here has the link to it available. For the camshaft: Jeep offered three performance cams for the 2.5L. They were the same grinds they also offered for the 4.0L. Of course, DaimlerChrysler has sold off their stock, but the used to show up on e-Bay sometimes. (I bought a Stage 2 from one of the guys in NAXJA. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm not planning to sell it.) Stage 1: Part Number P4529656 Duration 240/240 degrees Overlap 24 degrees Center Line 108 degrees Lift 430/430 Stage 2: Part Number P4529657 Duration 248/248 degrees Overlap 32 degrees Center Line 108 degrees Lift 440/440 Stage 3: Part Number P4529658 Duration 256/256 degrees Overlap 40 degrees Center Line 108 degrees Lift 450/450

Fernando, because your truck has a carburetor and no computer controls, it would be very easy for you to install a Jeep Stage 2 camshaft kit and a new Weber carburetor. The factory camshaft kits are still available occasionally in e-Bay, or we can get you the specifications and you can buy a similar camshaft from one of the aftermarket companies such as Crane, Crower, Iskendarian, etc. It can make a big difference. There is a gentleman on the NAXJA forums who posts under a name something like "Hoss Hoffer" (if I remember correctly) who is running a factory cam kit in a 2.5L Cherokee, and he says it is very good on power, and the cam did not destroy his fuel economy.

XJ tail lights are totally different.

The Country Edition was an XJ trim package that basically replaced the Wagoneer for a couple of years. It had pretty much all the bells and whistles, and I think most if not all even had the phony woodgrain on the sides. It is NOT the same as the Up Country suspension option on late-model XJs.

The 4-cylinder is a good engine, but if it has a 4-speed that means it's a 2WD, and it means it has 3.54 gears. It also means an early year MJ -- not a problem if it's an 87 or newer, but if it's an 86 the engine compartment is subtly different, which makes converting to a 4.0L engine later more difficult. (Not impossible, just adds another layer of modifications you would be happier avoiding.)

I NEVER talk to myself. That's what imaginary friends are for

Ha, ha. Just visited Argentina last week. Like when I visited Peru last year, I saw vehicles with diesels that were never intended to have diesels, and a LOT of newer cars and small pickups with diesels that have never been offered with diesel power in the U.S.

1989 was the year. I have an early 1989 with the BA10/5

It isn't a return line. It's a bypass line. The way you modified your system, you have full braking to the rear even with no load. That's why it like to swap end on you. You might have better performance if you use an XJ front combo valve, or put a Wilwood adustable proportioning valve in the line to your rear brakes.

That sounds like the factory bedliner. The holes are about 1-1/4" diameter? The retainers are black plastic screw/plugs that engage the underside of the bed rail when they are "screwed" (twisted) into the holes. My brother's Nissan with a Duraliner uses the same retainers, so you may be able to find them somewhere.

Longbed or shortbed? 4wd or 2WD?

That's not a return port. On the MJ, one port sends fluid through the rear, height sensing proportioning valve. The other port bypasses the rear valve and allows full brake pressure to the rear circuit if the front circuit loses pressure. In theory. See the thread in which I posted a picture of an MJ valve cut in half to see why theory doesn't always work.

They WILL fit. No cutting necessary if you run stock Jeep rims. There will be slight rubbing on the lower control arms at full steering lock

Finding part numbers isn't the problem. The problem is finding the parts that go with the numbers.

Here you would likely have to get a TPS from a 2.5L auto in order for the TCU to get the input it needs. You can always rig a switch to shift it for the sake of simplicity. But the 904 isn't electronically controlled, is it? Would there even BE a TPS for it? And if there is, would the output be compatible with the AW4 TCU? Yeah, it can be controlled by a switch or switches, but that only works if the driver remembers to do basic things like unlock the converter when stopping at traffic lights. I'd remember ... my wife wouldn't :(

When I get home and can excavate the spare trannies from the snow drifts I'll have a look. I'm assuming that a bellhousing can be redrilled, if necessary, or an adapater made up. Aside from actually bolting the tranny to the bellhousing, there are some other issues and if anyone has thoughts on them, please chime in: * Bell housing depth/input shaft length. I haven't done much with XJ/MJ 4-cyl manual trannies, but back in AMC days the smaller 6-cyl manuals used a shorter bellhousing than the bigger V8 trannies -- by an inch and a half. Is that an issue here? * Pilot bearing diameter -- what pilot bearing would be used, and did the 4-cyl version of the AW4 have a different input shaft? * Torque converter/flex plate: The standard 4.0L flex plate is too large to bolt up to the 2.5L engine, and would not be balanced for it even if it did bolt up. Is there a 4-cyl AW4 torque converter that bolts up to the same flex plate as the 904 auto in the 4-cyl models, or did the 4-cyl AW4 get a special flex plate? How aboiut fitting the torque converter intoi that smaller bellhousing? With manuals, the 4-cyl clutch is smaller. Is there a smaller torque converter for use with the 4-cyl version of the AW4? * What about controlling the tranny? I assume a harness for the TCU can be adapted from a 6-cyl, but does the TBI throttle body have provision for the tranny control output found on the 4.0L throttle body?

If you just grab and yank, you have a 50% chance the "christmas tree" faster will let go, and a 50% chance you'll snap off the slot on the louver -- meaning that you'll never put it back on again. They come off by sliding UP about half an inch. The push fasteners go into a n upside-down U shaped retainer on the louver. Take a block of wood, put it under the bottom edge, and tap gently upwards.

Here's another http://www.phoenixcampers.com/specs.html The Little Chief is for the longbed, the Wigwam is for the shortbed. The same sizes are available in the Coyote series -- I don't know if that's a step up or a step down. A couple of years ago there was also a company that offered a basically unfinished version that would be good for those on a budget who don't mind not having all the amenities. It also saved a considerable amount of weight.

Are you actually losing fluid, as your post begins by saying, or are you just losing pressure? Sounds like the latter. If you aren't havinbg to refill the master cylinder every day or two, you aren't losing fluid. Losing pressure probably means that the master cylinder or the slave cylinder needs to be replaced. It's unlikely that bleeding will help, but you can try. The bleeder is on the left side of the transmission, where the hydraulic line enters the bellhousing.