Eagle

1-5-3-6-2-4

The standard AX-15 bell housing may mate up. A friend of mine recently put an AX-15 behind an AMC 390 in a Hudson street rod he built. The only problem he had was finding a pilt bearing or bushing (I don't remember which he used) that fit both the crank and the transmission input shaft.

Some forum softwares are open to administrative hacks that allow for certain designated users to encounter various annoyances in thier use of the forum. The delays you experience when logged in may be accidental and coincidental, or they may be just what you suspect -- your punishment for not being a good boy. As a test, drop by a public library some evening and log in under a new user identity from the library. See if you have the same problems. Then log off and log in as yourself and see what happens.

Doesn't make sense. The first fuse could not have been good, or you would have had smoke under the dash with that in place. And the resistor pack is under the dash on the passenger side, so that's most likely where the smoke was coming from. It sounds like you have a short in the resistor pack. I note your post said "resistor" (singular), but there are multiple resistors. The slower fan speeds are controlled by resistors of different values. Full fan speed doesn't go through a resistor. Worst case scenario would be you hot wire the fan with no resistor, and you then have an all-or-nothing situation. But I would start by removing your resistor pack and trouble-shooting that.

My tire/gear charts don't get into any low-profile sizes. The smallest tire I worked up figures for is a stock 215/75R15. Assuming the 3550 has an overdrive ratio of 0.75:1 (I'm too lazy to check), here's what I get: At 50 MPH, 4th gear (1:1) would be 2224 RPM and 5th would be 1668 RPM running stock 3.54 gears. Same gears at 70 MPH ==> 3114 RPM & 2336 RPM ------------------------------- Jump to 4.10 gears At 50 MPH, 4th gear would be 2576 RPM and 5th would be 1932 RPM Same gears at 70 MPH ==> 3607 RPM & 2705 RPM ------------------------------- Jump to 4.56 gears At 50 MPH, 4th gear would be 2865 RPM and 5th would be 2149 RPM Same gears at 70 MPH ==> 4011 RPM & 3008 RPM -------------------------------- Those tires are rated to turn 754 revolutions per mile. You can get the tevs per mile for any other tire size you're considering and just do the math to convert those RPMs to the different tire size. It's a direct proportion.

They're asking $1100 for THAT? That wiring harness hasn't been butchered ... it's been massacred. $500 tops, if it starts and runs. Otherwise, he should pay you to remove it from his premises.

An automatic is "better" than a manual for hard-core rock crawling, but even that can be done with a manual if geared correctly. For fishing trips and fire roads, IMHO an automatic doesn't offer any advantages. I've run some moderately tough trails in both my XJ and the '88 MJ ... both have 5-speeds. The XJ even still has the factory 3.08 gears.

Sorry, but no. The AMC V8s share the same bolt pattern as the 4.0L I6. The 2.5L I4 and the 2.8L V6 use a smaller, GM bellhousing pattern. They are not interchangeable.

The hands-down best (in terms of ease and "bang for the buck") swap is the GM 3.4L V-6.

Or, as they might say south of the border, "Cajones grandes"

Ah, so. In that case, the driver IS responsible.

As if the AX-5 is some sort of super tough transmission. :D But at least it has 5 speeds. "Back in the day" American car manufacturers did thing bass-ackwards. They put 4-speed and then 5-speed trannies behind the biggest engines, the engines that had enough torque and power to go from a standing start to 200 MPH in a single gear, but behind the smallest econo-motors they only put a 3-speed, meaning it was never possible to get anything close to optimum gearing. If you wanted more gear for acceleration, the engine was racing at 50 MPH, and if you wanted less gear for highway cruising and fuel mileage, first gear wasn't low enough to get started on even a modest upgrade. That's the major drawback to the 3-speed auto, all discussions of "strength" aside. You HAVE to run tall gears to keep the highway RPMs at all reasonable, and that means the tranny and torque converter are working overtime to go uphill or to haul any load.

I disagree. If there's a spotter, the driver is supposed to do what the spotter says (or signals). Spotters are for situations in which the driver can't see what's going on. If there's a boo-boo in a spotter situation, the spotter is responsible. If you can't accept that ... don't ever volunter to be a spotter. Them's the rules.

No, the drag link runs from the pitman arm to the right side knuckle. The tie rod runs from the right side of the drag link to the left side knuckle.

Plain vanilla NGKs.

I consider the optimum combinations to be 4.10 gears for 31" tires, 4.56 for 32" tires, and 4.88 gears for 33" tires. YMMV Keep in mind that 31" tires with 3.73 gears is exactly the same final drive ratio as stock tires and stock 3.54 gearing. 4.10s with 33s is probably going to effectively be about the same as a stock setup.In other words, livable but hardly optimum. Just checked my charts. In overdrive with the 4.10s you'll be turning 1965 engine RPM at 60 MPH. With stock 225/75R15 tires and an auto, 60 MPH is 1938 RPM. You'll be okay on the road, but you won't have a great crawl ratio without more gear.

Or the drive shaft is running at an excessive angle for the joints.

Actually, to torque it properly you have to start with a new crush sleeve ... every time. In real life, that's not what they do even at Jeep dealerships. The torque required to crush a new sleeve to get the correct preload is generally in excess of 300 foot-pounds. So the techs reuse the old sleeve and torque it to something less than a value that will cause it to crush further, but which WILL keep things nice and tight. Around 250 foot-pounds is what my tech friend told me. My torque wrench only goes up to 150, so if/when I get to do a pinion seal, I'll be shopping for a new torque wrench.

The dashboard will swap. The console will work but may need a bit of trimming at the back end. The seats will work, but you have to take them off the XJ pedestals and mount them on the MJ pedestals.

Yup, that sounds right on the money for a 4-speed.

Needle? You have an analog voltmeter that reads to half a volt? I think you need a digital meter. The pulses are going to be faint and quick ... I doubt that an analog meter can even swing the needle fast enough to register them. However -- did you ever have this truck running? Do you know that the CPS mounting bolts are the correct, original bolts? The correct bolts have a solid (unthreaded) shank where they go through the flange of the CPS, in order to locate it accurately. If a previous owner dropped a bolt and replaced it with something out of his miscellaneous bolts pile, chances are it's threaded full length and doesn't hold the sensor in the correct relationship to the flywheel.

While I certainly don't agree that the 258 was a turd of an engine, I DO agree that a GM 3.4L V6 is a much easier and more logical swap for the 2.8L, since the block is the same and all the mechanical stuff is basically bolt-up. The GM injection and ECU can be run basically stand-alone and use the Jeep harness for the gauges and chassis. One consideration is that the 2.8L has an externally balanced crankshaft, meaning an eccentric weight in the flywheel (or flex plate). The 3.4L is "zero" or "neutral" balanced, meaning it doesn't have the eccentric weight. I believe you have to use the Jeep flywheel, so it'll have to be rebalanced.

It's supposed to be 80,000, per the factory. That's what the count-down timers were calibrated for.

I wish someone could explain that to my wife. All she sees is more MJs in the yard than I can drive (or repair) at one time, and she flips out. I think my only saving grace is that they were here before she arrived, and she may just understand that there's a message in that ... As to the "totalled" bit -- I don't understand how the insurance company can dictate anything about a buyback. I own a 1988 MJ. Some dweeb drives into it and does $2500 worth of damage to it. Yes, I understand that if the truck has a book value of only $1000 they don't want to spend $2500 to repair it. But the fact is, if the truck had a book value of $2550 they'd have to pay the $2500 and I keep the truck. So if the book value is only $1000 -- give me the $1000 and leave me alone. I ain't signing my MJ over to some insurance robber.

You should be able to go to 235/75R15 with no rubbing, or a 30x9.50-R15 with very minor rubbing where the tire rubs the lower control arm when the steering is turned all the way to one side or the other. Just remember that you're dealing with a 2.5L 4-cyl, 4-speed. It's a reliable engine, but it's not a ball of fire. Personally, with that setup I would not go any larger than 225/75R15, and I might decide if I was having a "sane" day to stay with 215/75R15s.