Eagle

Try the suction cup first. If that won't do it, Harbor Freight Tools has a body work stud welder that'll do it. Rather than drill holes to pull the dent, it tack weld studs to the surface. You grab the studs with a slide hamemr puller (supplied with the kit), pull the dent (a little at a time on each stud, you don't try to pull the whole thing on one stud in a single shot), then grind off the studs and refinish. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3223 Drilling holes is SOOO 1960s ...

Bummer. The old saying was correct: "He who hesitates is lost."

Why don't you just measure it? It takes about 30 seconds, then you'd know instead of guessing. Wheel center straight up to flare. 17-1/2" front, 20" or 20-1/2" rear. Done.

EGR maybe? Also, make certain that the throttle body is tight on the manifold. A small leak at the mounting flange might cause behavior sort of like that, and as the engine warms up the aluminum would expand to make a better seal.

It's not like you're missing anything important, you know. On rare occasion, we Yanks can even revert to English when we need to be understood.

You have already been shown that 31x10.50s will fit the stock suspension. They will ... with stock 15x7 Jeep rims. They WILL rub the lower control arms at full steering lock ... so will 30x9.50s. You either adjust the steering stops, or live with it. Backspacing on the Jeep rims is 5-1/4". There are NO aftermarket 15x8 rims that offer that backspacing. If you use aftermarket rims, the tires WILL extend farther out from the vehicle centerline. This is a problem. On the stock rims, 31x10.50s will tuck up (just barely) inside the stock flares when the front suspension is compressed. If you use rims with less backspacing (even 15x7), the tires will hit the flares and rip them apart in short order. This will continue to be the case even after lifting, BTW, unless you extend the bump stops. That solves the problem of hitting the flares -- but you lose suspension travel, so what's the point? In the rear, 31x10.50s will fit on Jeep rims and will tuck inside the flares. They ride VERY close to the frame, and when the suspension gets twisted up you see marks where the top of the tire rubs the inside of the wheelwell. A bit less backspacing would help that, but then you're back to hitting the flares. Running 30x9.50s gains an extra half inch of clearance there. I just ran the 31s and accepted the occasional rubbing. It didn't seem to hurt anything.

Doesn't look even close to stock height. The correct measurement is from the centerline of the axle (hub cap, or whatever) straight up to the bottom edge of the flare. The measurement should be 17-1/2" for the front, and for an MJ about 20" or 20-1/2" for the rear. At stock height, 31s in the front should look like they were really stuffed in there. Your truck visually looks like at least a 2" to 3" lift.

Any chance we could take up a collection and buy all three bins? It's great to save 133 sets, but that still means 266 sets are being crushed. If they're going to crush them anyway, it would seem like any bid at all is gravy for them. I'll take a pair, BTW. Also ... you said three of the four bins had MJ tail lights. What's in the 4th bin?

Plan? Why do you need a "plan"? They told you to take two days to think about where you want to be in the company, right? So, when you go back in ... tell them. Where you want to be is NOT in the lab, but back out where you were hired to work. Tell them you left your previous job to work for them so you would NOT be in a lab. By the way -- you really do need to talk to an emplyment attorney. You are getting SCREWED on wages and hours. Do you understand about straight time and overtime, and "exempt" vs non-exempt? If you are being paid any way other than "salary" (which means your paycheck is always the same, no matter how many hours or days you work in a pay period), you are subject to both state and Federal laws regarding overtime. And I'm certain that if you check into it, you will quikcly find that for anything more than 8 hours in any one day or 40 hours in any one week, they must pay you time-and-a-half. "Exempt" means that you are exempt from the overtime payment requirements and they can treat you as salaried. But the requirements for who is exempt are very strictly spelled out, and if they can chew you out and suspend you for two days over the incident you described -- you are not a salaried, "exempt" employee ... no matter what they try to claim. Look into it, amigo, because if you have any plans to remain with this company, you had better get the ground rules straight at the beginning or you'll be letting them keep their hand in your pocket for however long you work there. I've been there ahead of you. I quit what was supposed to be the "perfect" new job after 7 months, over "stuff" much like what you describe. Remember, I said I quit -- I wasn't fired, layed off, or any other such euphemism for being canned. Yet I filed for unemplyment and I got it, because the chicken $#!& they threw at me was so egregious that the hearing officer ruled they had forced me to quit. In employment law lingo, that's called (apparently) a "constructive discharge." Then, as he was folding up his files, the hearing officer also told me that the way they had been paying me was illegal and that they owed me a pile of overtime. He referred me to the Wages and Hours complaint department, I gave them the facts, and a few months later I received a check for $1400. Do not be a doormat. They will use you to whatever extent you allow them to use you.

Ah -- A furriner amongst us. "Cat" is American slang for "catalytic converter." If they get clogged, they build up back pressure in the exhaust, which translates into loss of power and other disadvantageous symptoms.

And the O-ring gasket isn't going to fix it, anyway. The problem is almost certainly going to be the aforementioned stress crack where the metal lines go through the metal mounting flange for the fuel pump assembly. The best you can do is clean it down as well as possible from the outside and apply either a gasoline-resistant RTV or an epoxy paste of some type around the lines to try to seal them to the flange.

i THINK he's talkin about the connector from the CPS to the harness... try electrical contact cleaner in there and a good shaking. (oh and make sure to plug it back in No, he's not. The C101 connector is located high on the firewall, above the brake booster vacuum reservoir. The entire engine harness goes into it before going through the firewall to the ECU. There is a known problem with the early Renix ('86 thru mid-89) harness losing the CPS signal. Jeep sells a replacement CPS that comes with a 2-wire harness. You abandon the stock harness, drill a hole through the firewall for the new harness, and run the two wires directly to the ECU. That may or may not correct the problem. It always has for me in the past. However, the curremt no spark with the '88 MJ that isn't the problem. The new CPS is only generating 0.23 volts and it should be generating 0.5 to 0.8 volts. But the dealership won't acknowledge that there's anything wrong with the part, so I'm sort of, errr ... screwed.

Sounds like you have too much time on your hands. For the dash, why not get the "business end" of a right-hand drive XJ and use that for the passenger side? Splice the two down the center, as you've described, and it'll be mirror image. There are some right-hand drive XJs around that are or were in service with the Postal Service.

The backfiring could simply be caused by old, stale gasoline. The first thing I would do is ensure that there's fresh gas in the tank.

Yes, in an Eagle. Pre-'83 isn't an XJ or MJ.

Good luck cleaning the carb -- unless somebody messed up your truck, it's throttle body injected.

An '88 MJ with a factory Dana 35 in the rear should have a threaded steel fill plug. Chrysler didn't change over to the plastic plugs until 1990, at the time they changed to c-clips.

Congratulations to you, and felicitations to the bride.

Yes, absolutely. Been there, done that. I drove an older XJ across the country, leaving a trail of oil behind me. Connecticut to Montana, about 2200 or 2300 miles IIRC. I used a full case of oil. It was almost literally a question of stopping at every service area or interchange to check the gas and fill up the oil. Fortunately, on the 4.0L the rear main seal is a two-piece unit that can be changed just by dropping the oil pan -- no need to pull the transmission.

Is there a different part number for the AX-15 internal slave than for the BA 10/5 slave? I didn't think so, but I've never actually looked them up. It's hard to tell from the photos if the two bell bousings are the same depth. In the overhead photo they look the same, in the photo from the left side they don't. If they are the same, then the clutch and slave/bearing should be the same. Bleeding the hydraulic clutch in an XJ or MJ can be ... "difficult." Are you sure you got it bled completely?

Nope. Not horrible, but not good. I had bought a set of 3.73 gears with the intention of running them in my XJ with 30" tires. Things changed, and they ended up in an MJ running 31x10.50s. The true final drive ratio (as evidenced by RPMs at MPH) is exactly the same as a stock automatic with 3.54 gears and stock 225/75 tires. 3.54s with 31s won't even get you back to the equivalent of stock tires with the 3.07s/ 3.73s are a good choice with 30" tires. IMHO 4.10s are about optimum for 31s in a multi-use vehicle, and you can go to 4.56 if the vehicle doesn't see a lot of highway cruising.

I have posted the procedure two or three times. I know it's impolite to tell folks to use search, and if I had more time I would search it for you ... but I don't have time at the moment. It's here if you look for it.

Tacky. Audiovox also makes (or "made," as of 12 years ago) a model that uses an OEM clone turn signal stalk for the control, just like the factory units. I have one in my '88 XJ. It worked great for ten years, then the plastic housing for the drive adapter at the transfer case broke and left me with no speedo. Removing the adapter and reverting to the speedo cable going directly to the quill got the speedo back, but obviously no more cruise control. I keep meaning to contact Audiovox about a replacement adapter, but I necer remember during the day when I'm near a phone.

How do you get the old ones out? I have a rear door on an XJ that has a busted hinge pin I'd like to replace. Do you just insert a 1/4" punch and flail away with a 3-pound Ford carburetor adjusting tool?

If you want to be able to get decent highway fuel mileage AND have a half-decent off-road crawl ratio, you need an overdrive, which the 3-speed auto doesn't offer. The ideal would be an AW4, but finding the right bell housing is virtually impossible. So ... the alternative is a 5-speed manual. If you know how to drive a manual tranny and don't mind shifting, then by all means do the swap.