Eagle

STOP! "CommandTrac" is only a name, it could refer to a couple of different transfer cases. Assuming that we're talking about a Comanche, though, what they have in common is that when the rear drive shaft is removed, there is nothing to keep fluid in the transfer case. Mechanically it will run in 4WD with just a front drive shaft. But to actually drive it like that you need to put something over the back end of the tailshaft to catch and retain the ATF that's going to want to pour out while you drive. What is sometimes done as a trail expedient is to cut the bottom off a plastic Coke bottle and use a hose clamp to attach that around the end of the tailshaft housing. If you don't do something it'll pee ATF all over the ground for a short distance ... after which the transfer case will be running dry and will self-destruct.

What he said ^^^ You have to define "fit." The YJ axle is the correct width, but you would have to relocate the spring perches.

Yes, the Jeep door post switch is in the grounded side of the circuit, and completes the ground when the door is opened. There are actually two -- the passenger door should have a single contact, the driver's door should have two contacts.

You don't really need relays. All you need is a couple or three toggle switches. One of the guys on the old Strokers e-group (Carnuck will remember him) has an AW4 in an old Rambler station wagon. He controls it with a 5 or 6-position rotary switch. Just click-click-click up through the gears, and another click if he wants to lock the converter. Then rotate in the opposite direction for downshifting. I would prefer to be able to run it as an automatic or manual control, but the manual control can be rather rudimentary.

Well, yes -- that would be a clue ...

What? I thought you were Norwegian. EXIT STAGE LEFT

Take any stock XJ, MJ, or Jeep or GM vehicle. Turn the steering wheel all the way to lock and hold it. You'll hear a change in sound, which may manifest as a groaning noise or may sound more like a WHOOSH. That's the pump trying to push fluid that's not going anywhere. It WILL destroy the steering pump if you make a practice of it.

I have an '88 2.5L 2WD 4-speed (manual) that I would really like to convert to automatic so my wife can drive it, but I would like to use an AW4 to get the overdrive. I wasn't able to get out to Harry's in pursuit of that one. I have access to a couple of AW4 trannies, what I need is the bell housing. So anyone who can provide specifics regarding other vehicles that would have a bellhousing that works, please post it. I'm sure I am not the only person who would like to hang an AW4 behind a 2.5L.

Aha! Je comprends. It is possible to use an external, electric fuel pump. I think it needs to produce 40 psi, though, so you can't buy an older pump that would be used with a carburetor, because those only put out about 7 psi. What do you have? Is that photo of what appears to be a 4.0L Cherokee fuel tank the tank out of your 4.0L donor vehicle? Does the fuel pump function?

Jessica wasn't apologizing. She meant she was sorry that you "feel" the information is incorrect. In other words, she was being condescending and saying "You idiot, I can't help it if you don't know what's in your vehicle. I ran it through my computer so I KNOW this is what you have. If you don't like it, tough cookies."

Jop, I don't think you will find much help from us in the U.S. because over here the 2.8L was set up with a mechanical fuel pump and a carburetor. Nobody here has a vehicle that is equipped like yours. You have a 2.8L V6 that has an electric fuel pump? Is it fuel injected?

Personally, I would buy from Randy's only if every other source in the country went out of business. I can't point to any reason why -- I've never bought from them so I can't say they've done me dirty. I just don't get good vibes from the whole operation. I used to like Drive Train Direct -- are they still around? Reider Racing is another good source.

No, the rubbing is the inner sidewall of the tire scrubbing on the lower control arm. Ride height doesn't really affect it -- it happens at stock height, and if you're lifted. With 30x9.50s it's not a big deal at all. The simple work-around is to shim the steering stops with one or two washers and forget it. I just learned to never turn the steering wheel to full lock -- which you shouldn't do anyway, because doing so stalls out the power steering pump and causes it to overheat.

The fan is held in by three bolts in the mounting flange, removed from the engine bay side. Then you simply pull the fan out of the firewall (from the engine side). No need to go under the dashboard at all. If you have a bad resistor pack, which controls the lower speeds ... for THAT you go under the dashboard.

Nope. On stock rims, they'll be fine in the back but they'll rub the lower control arms in front on sharp turns. Using rims with less backspacing to clear the LCAs will cause the tires to hit the flares when turning. I run 30x9.50s on stock rims, and I just accept the rubbing. It isn't a problem, but they do rub.

What he said. ^^^ A couple of years ago the hard line to the rear brakes in my 88 XJ broke more or less under the rear passenger seat. I cut it off there, flared it, and spliced in a new hard line from that point back to the rear flex hose. The existing line split a foot forward of my splice while we were bleeding it after the repair.

The 86 is a long bed. The wheelbase is longer by several inches. The shortbed box won't fit the longer frame correctly. Anything can be made to work, but it ain't a bolt-on. Am I correct that the donor is a 4.0L and the 86 is a 2.5L? The tranmissions aren't the same, and you need a 4WD version of the 2.5L tranny in order to bolt up the transfer case.

My wife's 2000 XJ Classic has 16" rims and 225/70R16 tires. My 2000 XJ Sport has 15" rims and 225/75R15 tires. (note the difference in the last two digits of each tire size). The tires are the same diameter.

Got specifics? I knew the D35 wheel cylinders were different from the D44 wheel cylinders, but that's only two.

Yeah, but the K&N filter listed by K&N for the 4.0L Cherokee & Comanche is about 1/4" too short for the airbox, leaving a gap through which all sorts of nasty stuff can go straight into the engine. The filter element that actually FITS is listed for a Dodge Dakota ... unfortunately, since I don't like K&Ns, I don't remember which years. I also don't think a street or off-road vehicle gains anything using a K&N. The stock air filter has to be designed to allow enough air for operation through the entire range of the engine, which means it'll flow enough to get you up to 4,500 to 5,000 RPM or maybe a bit more. I never EVER see the high side of 3,500 RPM, and for the most part my shift points are around 2,200 to 2,500 RPM. So a stock air filter even half clogged will still flow enough to keep me running. As to why that's happening: All vehicles today have closed crankcase ventilation. (I'm old enough to remember when there was just an open tube out the side of the crankcase to open air.) Modern engines draw air in through the air filter, pull it through the crankcase to pick up fumes from the hot oil, and suck it out of the valve cover through a tube or hose to the throttle body or intake manifold. Most vehicles have a PCV valve to regulate the flow. The 4.0L does NOT use a PCV valve. It regulates the flow by the size of the tubes. The hose from the air cleaner box to the valve cover is the INTAKE. The little, skinny line from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold is the suction line. What hapens is that this line gets clogged, or the baffle inside the valve cover where this small line attaches gets plugged, and there's no suction. So the excess pressure from any blow-by pressurizes the crankcase and makes the intake hose flow backwards, forcing oil-laden fumes back out that hose to collect in the air filter element. That small line is actually supposed to be serviced by periodic replacement, but nobody ever does it because most people don't know about it. And the replacement is expensive -- although NAPA has the replacements for about half the cost of dealer parts. Or you can make one up using copper or plastic tubing of a larger diameter, so it'll be less likely to get clogged. But you should still remove the valve cover and clean out the baffle, just to ensure that it's open. Routing the inlet hose through a catch can is a last-ditch measure. It's not a repair, it's a work-around. It still leaves the system working in reverse, it just reduces the amount of oil that soaks the air filter element. But ... if all else fails and the engine otherwise runs well ... I'd do it.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me) It's all terminology. I have one friend who refers to ALL axles as "rears," even when used in the front. And that's how the term "reverse rotation" came about. Put a rear diff in the front, and when the vehicle is going forward the ring gear spins in the reverse of the direction it would in the rear. Hence, "Reverse rotation." Obviously, if it's literally a rear axle that's flipped and put in the front, that also means the teeth are engaging on the "coast" side rather than the "drive" side. So the manufacturers started making "reverse cut" or "reverse bevel" gearsets so that gears rotating in the reverse direction would still be engaging on the strong side. High and low pinion actually are unrelated to direction of rotation. What happens, though, is if a rear is low pinion and you just put it in the front, it rotates in reverse. So then if you flip it over so the pinion sits high, it magically rotates in the correct direction again. Without reverse cut gears. Reverse bevel gears are necessary when using a low pinion axle in the front. At least, I think that's how it works. It's been awhile since I've thought about all that, so I may have gotten myself confused.

You were incorrect. There is a VERY remote possibility of a Dana 44, but it won't have 4.10 gears.

Those are Ecco rims and they are from a 2000 XJ Sport. They're 15x7 and are the same size as any of the Jeep alloys that fit the MJ. As already noted, most MJs had either 205/75R15 or 225/75R15 tires. A 235/75 is only slightly larger. Most times the factory speedometer reads slightly faster than actual road speed anyway, so with the 235s your speedo should be pretty much right on the money.

Their listing is messed up. There is no engine difference between a 4.0L in a SporTruck and a 4.0L in a Pioneer or a Laredo or an Eliminator. There IS a difference between the 87-90 engine and the 91-92 engine. When Chrysler re-worked the engine to make it the HO version, they changed the shape of the ports and set the manifolds slightly higher on the head. Just be sure you order the correct manifold for the year of your engine.

It would probably help you a LOT if you could lay your hands on a wiring diagram. The diagram in either Chilton's or haynes Cherokee book would be close enough for your purposes in this case, and if you don't already have one you might find one at a library. The XJ/MJ in that vintage used a relay on the passemger side inner fender (the power distribution center) to feed the solenoid on the starter. If that sounds like a redundant solution ... I would agree with you, but that's how they did it. Perhaps that's the wire to which you are referring. You haven't responded directly, but I'm sort of figuring that perhaps the engine isn't actually turning over? What happens if the headlights are on when you turn the key to start? If the headlights are bright and STAY bright, then the solenoid isn't engaging the starter. If the headlights are bright but die out when you hit START, then either the battery is dead or the engine is frozen up, because the dim lights means there's more draw than the battery can provide power for.