Eagle

I KNEW this was going to be a disaster. I just KNEW it! As some of you know, I am the last member of species homo sapiens to still be using a dial-up connection to access the Internet. I was recently informed that AT&T can now provide me with DSL service, so about ten days ago I stopped by one of their storefonts to ask what kind of a deal they could cut for me. Background: I run a home office, so I have 2 phone lines. Line 1 is primarily for voice, line 2 is for fax and Internet. But I have 2-line phones in the office so both lines can be used for voice if line 2 isn't being used for fax on Internet. In addition, I have had AT&T as both my long-dustance phone carrier and my Internet ISP for a number of years. More recently, SBC (which was the provider of my in-state phone service) bought AT&T. So I have been receiving three bills from AT&T every month -- one from the former SBC for each of the lines, and a third from the old AT&T covering Internet and out-of-state long distance for both lines. I explained all this to the twit behind the counter. No problem, says he. Then he goes into a back room to make some phone calls (don't ask why ... he was using a cell phone), then he comes out and says I'm all set. Hmmm ... all I did was ask him for prices, and he went ahead and sold me DSL. I was a bit bothered, but DSL was what I had come in to ask about and it appeared they could give it to me, so I went ahead. I reviewed with him again the phone layout. He said I would need some additional filters (beyond the four or five that come in the kit with the DSL modem/router), but that he had ordered them and they would be sent to me directly. So now, ten days (actually, 12 days) later the additional filters haven't showed up, but I decided to see if things would work without them. So I opened the box and took out the goodies. First thing I noticed ... ALL the filters have only two conducters inside, and they are clearly marked "single line." Which means if I use them, my 2-line phones miraculously become 1-line phones. Not the absolute end of the world as we know it, but not what I wanted, not what I asked about, and not what I was promised. So this afternoon I went back to the AT&T storefront. Naturally, the guy I had dealt with wasn't there. Some other guy waited on me, listened to what I was saying with about 31 percent of his attention span (it was obvious from the glazed look that he didn't understand anything I was saying, didn't give a rat's posterior about MY problem, and just wanted to get me the hell out of the store so he could sell a cell phone to somebody), and just told me to call their 800 service number. I am ripped. Unfortunately, AT&T is the only game in town for DSL, and I refuse to deal with the robbers at the cable company. I either get this working or it goes back to AT&T and I rip some sales drone a new anal orifice. Does anybody out there know anything about this stuff? What are these filters for, and do I really need them? What happens if I don't use them -- do the phones and/or modem explode, or do I just get garbled transmissions if someone tries to talk while the Internet is being used? And once I connect the DSL modem, do I need to install any drivers or anything, or will I automatically be on-line and the browser will see it when I start it up? TIA

Consider that if the yard knows what they have, the rear axle alone is worth $500 to $600. If you can score the entire truck for $500 or less, you've gotten a deal. Especially if they can give you a title to go with it (other than a salvage title, that is). But IMHO it's worth $300 to $500 even w/o a title.

Back at ya. 4th Infantry Division, Pleiku, RSVN

Yup. Good for that, if that's what you need. Doesn't help the hubs to live long and prosper, though.

Try cleaning the idle air controller. Also, consider the throttle linkage. Yeah, I know -- it's a cable. Well, actually it's a cable that connects to a linkage. Stand on the driver's side of the engine bay and look down between the block and the inner fender. Below the exhaust manifold there's a bellcrank. Twice with my '88 XJ I have had to liberally spritz that bit of linkage with penetrating oil to free it up and cure a sticking throttle.

Chrysler 8.25

What's wrong with doing a good 4WD conversion? The 2WD Eliminator was so popular that they sold almost none of them the first year they were available. They offered it in 4WD after the first year, and most Eliminators sold were 4WD. If it was converted, and done well, they just saved you the trouble.

My red '88 4.0L is a Chief. It had the skid plates and tow hooks. It also had an open rear diff -- no Trac-Lok.

Nope. The "baby" Cherokee XJ didn't come out until late 1983, as a 1984 model. Cherokees prior to that were full-size Jeeps with 6-lug rims. The Comanche wasn't introduced until 1986, and 1992 was the last year. Backspacing will be all wrong, and in many cases the center hole is too small to fit on a Jeep hub even though the lug circle is correct. No first-hand knowledge. Verify backspacing, it's probably wrong.

Why am I suddenly grateful that I have a dial-up connection and can't even consider viewing video clips?

Definitely save

If it's an automatic and the engine is a 4.0L the tranny would be an AW-4. If it's a 5-speed and a 4.0L the tranny will be a Peugeot BA 10/5. The limited slip is a Dana Trak-Lok.

Back to basics. In order for an infernal combustion engine to run, it needs fuel, air, and spark. If it cranks we'll assume the valves work and it gets air. The fuel pump is making noises, so for the moment we'll assume that it's putting out sufficient pressure and volume to at least start the engine at idle speed. I have not seen any mention of checking to verify that there is spark. Check that. No spark could be caused by a bad CPS (crankshaft position sensor), or -- more rarely -- a bad coil or bad ignition module.

I have an '87 Pioneer and an '88 Chief. Both came with a fabric bench seat and no console. The Pioneer has the full gauge cluster WITH tachometer. The Chief has gauges, but it has the huge gas gauge where the tachometer should go. This truck sounds like it's a Laredo, or has been modified by a previous owner. Those wheels aren't MJ rims, either. Are those what were on it when you bought it? 3.73 gears were NOT factory with the 4.0L. Factory would have been 3.07 with a 5-speed or 3.55 with an automatic.

Yes, of course. It was used in every non-ABS XJ with the 4.0L engine and 5-speed from about 1992 and newer. The 92 thru 96 will be 27-spline with sgafts that are the same size as the D35 but the larger ring gear and tougher housing and tubes. 97 thru 2001 are the more desireable 29-spline version.

Yeah, infernal combustion engines tend to run better on gasoline than they do on H2O. There may still be some crud in the tank. By the time you drive it home some of that my be worked out. Dump in a can of Dry Gas before the trip. And replace the fuel filter when you get it home.

I don't have it bookmarked, but use Google to find the Monroe catalog on-line. It'll be a PDF of the entire catalog. At the rear are two sections you need. One shows each shock absorber by length and by upper and lower mounting bracket type. Use that to find a shock with upper and lower eyes. (You can use one with cross-pins, and just knock the pins out.) Then take that stock number and cross it to see what vehicle it fits. That'll be what you're looking for. If you're lucky, you'll find an air shock with the right length and end fittings and you can order it directly by part number, w/o even knowing what vehicle it fits. For starters, try shocks for the rear of an XJ (Cherokee). They are slightly shorter than MJ rears. Lower mount is an eye. Upper will be a cross-pin, which can be removed. For the front, I'm not sure but I think possibly a Wrangler TJ might be slightly shorter than an XJ/MJ front shock.

In the above, "part time" is Jeep's terminology for "locked." So your 231 has 4-wheel-drive locked high range and 4-wheel-drive locked low range. What it does NOT have is a 4-wheel-drive UNlocked high range. That's the additional option the 242 will give you. The unlocked high range is an all-wheel drive that allows you to use 4-wheel-drive on dry pavement. The 231 should not be used in 4WD on dry pavement.

Holy Moses! I've never seen a panel like that in a Comanche, and I'm not sure I've seen it in a Cherokee. What goes in the three blank spaces? Is that one of the oh-so-rare System Sentry panels with the warning lights for oil level, etc? I like that just for the thermometer. Where can I get a couple of those?

Correct. The 231 has a locking 4-High and 4-Low range. So does the 242. If the original poster is referring to the full-time (all wheel drive) mode, yes the 242 adds that to the mix. It is also marginally weaker than the 231, but in all the outings I've been to with NAXJA I never saw anyone break a 242, so I wouldn't consider it to be a weak sister. Keep in mind that the MJ probably has a disconnect front axle. The 242 does not use a disconnect axle and I don't think it has a vacuum port to control it. So to swap in a 242 you would also have to either rig a control (vacuum or manual) for shifting the axle disconnect, or just shim the disconnect into the engaged position and leave it there.

Not really. I am well aware of the factory oil pressure specs, I've quoted them to a lot of people. But 1700 RPM is more than 1600 RPM, and 20 psi is barely more than half of 37 -- and 37 is the minimum acceptable oil pressure at 1600 RPM. Will engines run on less? Sure. I once drove a car hauler from Connecticut to Maryland and back that generated all of 10 psi on the highway. Wasn't my truck and the owner said not to worry about it, so I didn't. But it wasn't "right." In the present instance, we have a fairly low-mileage rebuilt engine. The oil pressure should be within specifications. Will it run on 20 psi? Obviously -- it is running. Is it right? No, it isn't. It's not up to me to decide whether or not the owner should worry about it. He IS worried about it or he wouldn't be asking questions. I'm trying to help diagnose the problem. And when the oil pressure is half the minimum specified by the factory --- IMHO that's a problem.

^^^ 10-4 what they said. Keep the stub axles in the hubs, remove the inner axles.

NAXJA is a lot more than "a web site." NAXJA is a fully incorporated non-profit organization that carries a hefty insurance policy to cover their off-road activities. A good chunk of the dues pays for the insurance. NAXJA also pays for each member to also be a member of the United Four Wheel Drive Association, the major group in the fight to keep off-road trails open and available to us. And they publish a newsletter.

A chevy guy answer for everything :roll: 10-4 :brows:

It "looked like" a tune up was done? Including the fuel filter? Are you saying you crawled under the vehicle and saw a new fuel filter canister bolted to the frame rail?