Eagle

What width 33s? On what rims? On stock rims you can run 31x10.50s with no lift. A 33 is only one inch higher than a 31 on the top, so in theory you could run 33x10.50s with a 1" lift. However, if you have 33x12.50s then the tires won't fit inside the flares and fenders, so you have to lift enough to keep the body clear of the tires. How will this truck be used? Street only, mild trail use, or hard core rock crawling? (In other words, how likely is it that the suspension will ever be fully articulated and crossed up?)

Yes: 1. Just how bad ARE Fram filters? 2. How good or bad are the standard (not the Pur-One) Purolator filters? 3. Which filters have effective anti-drainback valves, and which don't?

One of us has our loops confoozled. I have always thought that the initial, warm-up mode was "open-loop" mode because there IS no loop -- the sensors don't provide data to the ECU. Once warmed up, I thought the normal operating mode was "closed-loop" because the sensors are "in the loop," hence ==> closed loop. Yes? No? Maybe?

Once the carpet gets wet, you pretty much have to take it out to dry. Yes, it'll eventually dry in place -- but not before you generate a whole lot of mildew and mold spores, which you will then be breathing for as long as you own the vehicle.

NGK (the non-platinum ones) are my first choice by far. 2nd choice is Champion TRUCK plugs. 3rd choice is to go back and pick one of the first two choices.

Replace the viscous fan clutch, and get a shroud.

Compression readings? Uneven compression will cause rough idle and there's not a damned thing you can about it short of rebuilding the engine.

His signature says he has a '90 and his post says it's an '89. Either way, that's a Renix -- there are no codes to read. It isn't a "Check Engine" light, it's a "Maintenance Required" light that's telling you to replace the oxygen sensor. Why will it run for 10 minutes? Because the Renix system bypasses sensor input until it reaches operating temperature. During warm-up it runs in "open loop" mode, ignoring sensor inputs and using a pre-mapped fuel curve that's programmed into the ECU. Once the ECU temp sensor reads operating temperature (I think it's 165 degrees F.) it switches over to "closed loop" mode and starts adjusting things (such as fuel mix) according to sensor input.

This is not always correct. The factory sometimes used under/oversize bearings if they had to grind the crank a bit more to get a good surface. When they did that, they marked the side of the block with a code. That's what you need to check for. There is a boss on the side of the block just behind the distributor. If they used non-standard bearings, they stamped a one- or two-character code on the boss. Codes were; B = All cylinders .010" oversize (bore, for ordering rings) M = All crankshaft MAIN bearings .010" undersize P = All connecting rod bearings .010" undersize C = All camshaft bearings .010" oversize

Those numbers are in the toilet. The LOW number per the FSM is 120 psi and you are WAAAAAY under that. The next step is to figure out if it's because of rings or valves. Desludging the engine won't do anything for compression, so before you even waste time on that ... check things out and decide if the engine can be saved or if it needs a rebuild/replacement.

Bad oxygen sensor will make it run rich, and a consistent rich mix will clog the catalytic converter. A clogged cat doesn't allow enough exhaust flow to make power at higher RPMs. I'd say at a guess you need an O2 sensor and a catalytic converter.

Fan clutch.

DOES ... IT ... HAVE ... WIRES ... ? It is difficult to be of help by remote control when you don't provide any information. Your question was how to wire a replacement stalk. The answer is -- you cannot. The wires are built into the stalk. If the stalk you got is already set up for cruise and has the wires and the button, then your question is not how to wire the stalk, it's how to connect the stalk to the existing cruise control. If the stalk has wires, how many are there, what colors are they, and is it a round (bundled) cable or a flat ribbon cable?

Are you sure the Jeep Bible is talking about the same engine? "Our" 4-cylinder MJ engine has NEVER been referred to as an "AMC 150." It was called a 2.5 liter when it was introduced in the 1984 Cherokee, and it has always been known as that. Jeep has had other, older 4-cylinder engines, and one of those might have been 150 cubic inches. The Jeep Bible is a decent book, but Moses has never been much into XJs and MJs. That book was really written for and around the older CJs and such.

Sadly (for you) -- the AX-15 is a much stronger transmission than the Peugeot. The Peugeot is an okay transmission if you don't abuse it -- the one in my '88 Cherokee is now at 287,000 miles (+/-), but once they break ... don't spend any money repairing it.

Does the new lever already have the wires attached for cruise? If so, you fish the wires down the steering column and plug them into the connector at the base, where the wires from the old one plugged in. If the "new" stalk you got didn't come from a vehicle with cruise control and doesn't already have the wires ... you can't use it.

What factory service manual are you looking at? I have the 1986 MJ FSM open in front of me. The acceptable compression range is 155 to 185 psi, with a maximum variation between cylinders of 30 psi. That doesn't mean you can take the lowest pressure they cite and then subtract another 20 percent to get the minimum. That means your highest doesn't need to be over 185, and your lowest should not be less than 155. Ideally, they'll all be in between those numbers and fairly close to each other. It'll run with less than 155 psi compression. It'll run with a LOT less compression ... but it'll be a weak sister engine.

A 20+ year old vehicle, of course. Comes with the turf.

How to turn back (or forward) the odometer has been discussed here a couple of times. Try a search. Just keep in mind that for every person who has done it successfully, there are probably five who trashed the odometer in the attempt. You cannot wire cruise into a turn signal stalk. The stalk has to come from a vehicle that has cruise, and the stalk will have the wires in it. Then you fish the wires down through the column to the connector at the base. The emissions light is set off by a timer. It's a little box held up under the dash over the driver's knees by velcro. Just unplug it an the light should go out. Keep in mind that it's a reminder to replace the oxygen sensor. The O2 sensor should be replaced every 75,000 miles. If you don't know how many miles are on yours, you should replace it. If it goes bad, it usually results in a rich mix that ruins the catalytic converter ... at which point you have to buy both an O2 sensor AND a catalytic converter.

If you don't know which transmission you have, how do you know that the mount is available in both rubber and polyurethane?

There's a choice?

We were? I'm of Scots/English/French/Swiss descent. Are you of Navajo or Apache descent? Or Anasazi? IMHO this has nothing to do with who was anywhere first. It has to do with, this is here, and that is there. Each country has ONE flag, and that's the flag that should be flown in that country. I would not expect to move to Germany, Japan, Russia, or Argentina and find them flying the American flag. People who move to the United States have no right to expect that any flag other than the American flag will be flown here, and they certainly have no right to be offended when it is. Likewise, there seems to be a growing problem with people from certain cultures moving here and expecting that they get to conduct their lives according to the messed up laws of their old country (I'm referring to things like forcing girls to marry against their wishes, and "honor killings," particularly). If they don't want to live under American law, they shouldn't move to America.

With that axle, just remember that you CANNOT jack up the rear of the vehicle with an axle jack under the pumpkin. If you do, the weight of the vehicle will warp the center section and you'll always have problems. The ZJ and WJ owners manuals don't tell you this. The WJ factory shop manual DID tell me this. I never owned a ZJ so I don't know if it's in the ZJ FSM. Since you're looking at a used axle, check it carefully for straightness, because thete's a strong possibility somebody else has already jacked it up by the pumpkin. To be honest, IMHO the Dana 35 is a better axle than that so-called Dana 44 aluminum piece of detritus.

According to AutoZone on-line, the 9-11/16" is for the 4-speed and the 9-1/8" is for the 5-speed. Considering they are the same transmission, I find that rather questionable. The 1986 MJ FSM says the clutch disc for the 4- and 6-cylinder models is 9.687" -- that's a lot closer to 9-11/16" than it is to 9-1/8".

A friend of mine just replaced the fuel pump in his wife's Suburban for the second time in two years. (Maybe three.) To do it in a Suburban, you have to completely drop the tank. Ugh.