Eagle

The fairlead and top access were centered. The winches were "clocked" 90 degrees, so the mounting feet were pointed back toward the radiator and the operating lever was facing up. I didn't see any on the 2010 trip to Chile for Christmas, but the last time I was there (a few years ago) it seemed like every Cherokee I saw had the hidden winch. There's some quirk in their registration laws that a vehicle with a winch gets classified as a work truck and pays lower taxes, so it was a popular option.

The range for the Renix was 0 to 88 ohms. 0 = Empty, 88 = Full.

Are you sure about that? The only references I've ever seen were for 5000 pounds or 6000 pounds.

Yes. If you look closely, the factory tow hook brackets (unlike the aftermarket brackets from Rusty's, C4x4 and Quadratec) have two sets of mounting holes. One set is for a standard setup, the other set pushes the bumper forward by 4 inches (or is it 6 inches?) to make room for the winch. The winch plate itself actually mounts through the standard bumper bracket holes in ends of the uniframe ears.

It's surprising just how gradual a turn it takes to result in one wheel traveling enough farther than another. The Trac-Loks in both my 87 MJ and 2000 XJ are quite tight, and they tend to ratchet a bit on corners. But all it takes is the sweep of an exit ramp off a limited access highway, for example. And that's just the difference between the two wheels on the rear axle. Going around any corner, the rear axle travels a tighter radius than the front axle, so it really doesn't take much driving at all to start binding up the transfer case.

Slippery means the tires are slipping on the surface even at low speed. I would not use 4WD part-time in rain under any conditions. It might be safe to do so in very heavy rain if you have tires that lose traction easily on wet pavement -- what I refer to as "greasy" tires. The problem is, of course, that one section of pavement may be more or less slippery than another section. If the tires have traction, in 4WD the system binds up and things break.

In 1990 (IIRC) Chrysler changed the design of the header and grill. They LOOK the same, but the old ones had the trim strip across the top (three pieces, above the grille and each headlight bezel) as separate parts. The newer design has that strip incorporated as an integral part of the grille and each headlight. The header itself is different, so if you installed a 1991 header, you now need 1991+ headlight bezels and grille.

If the slop is in the hinges, you can buy replacement pins. If the slop is the hinge assembly moving relative to the door post -- it's a welded connection that's getting ready to fail, so get it fixed soon.

Most auto parts stores sell "hydraulic clutch fluid." It's basically the same as brake fluid, and I have no idea why they package and market it as a different product. Considering all the problems brake fluid can cause, I use DOT 5 silicone in both my brakes and in the clutch. People told me I was crazy and asking for problems when I put it in the clutch, but that was 11 years and almost 90,000 miles ago on the '88 Cherokee (which was the first one I changed over) and I haven't noticed any problems yet. If my clutch master ever leaks back into the cab, the silicone won't destroy the fuse panel. Plus, I don't have to worry about internal corrosion in the steel lines because silicone isn't hygroscopic.

thats would be possible but i forget whats different between winter gas and summer gas? different thick of gas for tempature like Oil's? They change the formulation for winter. I don't remember the specifics, but generally "winter" gas delivers about 2 MPG less than "summer" gas. That could explain the gas mileage difference, but it won't explain the fuel gauge antics.

Winter gas ==> Summer gas

I think you have it reversed. The line from the "nose" of the front metering block is the full-time port for the rear brakes. The forward of the two outlet ports on the bottom of the front metering block is the port for the emergency bypass. If you have eliminated the rear height-sensing valve, you don't need a second line and should plug the forward outlet on the bottom of the metering block. It takes (IIRC) a 1/2" FINE thread, but you'll have to cut it down to about 1/2" or 3/8" in length to get a neat job.

Those little wedge-base bulbs that are used in the gauge cluster come in about three different wattages. If yours aren't bright enough, check the listings in a parts store and move up to the next brighter number. (Unless all yours are already the brightest available.)

I'm guessing the answer is no. A lot of engines have a rocker ratio of 1.5:1, and increasing that to 1.6:1 produces a bit more lift. AFAIK AMC engines have always used 1.6:1 rockers, so there's nothing there to be gained.

You have it backwards. The sequence is * Open bleeder * Assistant pushes peddle down SLOWLY (and holds it down) * Close bleeder * Assistant lets peddle up Check fluid level in master Repeat

True, the 87 won't have it unless it was retrofitted as a TSB. You can bypass it. If you find it, just jumper the two wires together. But they should have it. AutoZone has it: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... ing=search

Start - run - die usually mean the ballast resistor for the fuel pump has died. The resistor get bypassed when starting, so the engine gets fuel when cranking, fires up, then when you release the key back the RUN position the circuit reverts to the ballast resistor ==> no more fuel, so it runs out what's in the rail, then dies.

What do you expect when you post at 11:00 p.m.? Not everyone stays awake at midnight to greet new members who are too impatient to wait more than a couple of hours for an answer to a question that probably nobody has ever encountered. We're a friendly and helpful bunch here, but you might try being a bit realistic in your demands.

I dunno -- before I met and married my wife I was always on the lookout for an affordable Jeep wench. Then there was the ad some years ago for a somewhat modified Wrangler, in which the seller proudly proclaimed "worn hubs."

After you bled and then opened the front bleeder, did you step on the brake peddle? The purpose of opening the front bleeder is to simulate a front brake failure, causing the shuttle valve in the front metering block to move and open the passage to the bypass circuit to the rear. If you're using a pressure bleeder, I don't think just opening the front bleeder would activate the bypass circuit.

Any carpet store. Ask them for some scraps of jute carpet underlay.

If you can let go of the steering wheel and it stops, and if it's not nearly as bad as it was -- you do NOT have death wobble, you have wheel shimmy. If you can continue to drive and if it isn't a struggle to even keep the vehicle on the road -- it ain't death wobble. There's a reason it's called DEATH wobble.

Matte black.

(a) You get oil all over the engine compartment (B) you get abrasive dust and dirt in your crankcase.

What else would you expect? In any gear, with an automatic the engine is pushing against the resistance of the torque converter when the vehicle is stopped. Shift into neutral and suddenly the resistance is gone.