Eagle

You are aware that there are TWO sets of crossmember mounting locations on the frame rails ... right?

That's why everyone says they want to go higher, but you have to consider where your tires are rubbing, and then look at whether a lift (or MORE lift) can possibly do anything to alleviate it. You haven't mentioned (or I missed it) how wide your tires (and rims) are. You said 32s, so I'm going to guess 32x11.50. That's a wide tire. I ran 31x10.50s in factory rims on my trail MJ, and the inner sidewalls were VERY close to the rear leaf springs and to the inner fender liners. After every wheeling trip, the insides of the rear wheel wells would be polished and coated with black rubber from the tires rubbing as the axle twisted relative to the chassis. More lift would not have helped -- the problem was insufficient lateral clearance. Your wheels appear from the photos to be non-Jeep and to have less backspacing than factory rims, but then you're running much wider tires, so it probably evens out. So IMHO more lift isn't going to help in the rear. Where do you rub in the front? From the photos, I'm guessing that when you turn, the trailing outboard shoulder of the tire hits the lower corner of the front flare. Again, lift isn't the answer there. That's a mismatch of tire width, wheel backspacing and axle width to the vehicle. People don't like to believe it, but it has been proven that you can run 31x10.50s on a stock MJ (or XJ) with NO lift. On factory rims, the 31" tires tuck nicely into the fenders with no cutting or trimming of sheet metal at all. The only rubbing is the inner rear shoulder of the tire rubbing the lower control arm at full steering lock -- and more lift won't cure that, either. The cure is to run WJ lower control arms, which are curved inboard to allow more tire clearance. Now ... if you're in love with the look of a lifted truck, I can't argue with that. I can point out that it's a bad idea for a daily driver because it rides harsher and gets worse gas mileage, as well as being a PITA to get into and out of if you're wearing "dress-up" clothes, but it's ultimately a personal choice. I just don't want you to think you have to spend a bunch of money on a better or bigger lift in hopes of eliminating rubbing, only to find out that you wasted your money. I work for a living ... I know money doesn't grow on trees. Spend enough time to figure out your priorities and what you really need before you break out the Mastercard.

There's your problem. The surge bottle is NOT supposed to be topped off. It's an expansion tank, not an overflow recovery bottle. It should be filled to no more than the halfway mark when cold.

There's a pushrod connecting the ignition key tumbler to the ignition switch. Check adjustment.

There is no bushing kit. There are various bushings on various parts. The advice was to replace them "as you need them." That means look them over, and replace what needs to be replaced. The upper and lower control arms have bushings on each end. The LCA bushings are all in the arms, so if you plan to replace the lower arms, you'll be doing bushings then as part of the replacement. The upper control arms have bushings in the arm at the frame end, but the axle end bushings are mounted to the axle. Check those out, because those won't automatically be replaced if you go with aftermarket control arms. And don't get so hung up on height. A properly set-up MJ does NOT need a lot of lift to be off-road capable -- they are off-road capable in stock configuration. Especially if this vehicle is your daily driver and only sees occasional off-road use, you should be looking for the optimum configuration using the LEAST possible lift and the SMALLEST possible tires.

Photos? Of the chalk outline on the sidewalk?

It's an internal combustion engine. It only needs three things to start and run: Fuel, Air, and Spark. If it won't start, ONE of those three things is missing. Air is unlikely, since it's free and there's almost no way to NOT have air, unless you have a totally clogged air cleaner or multiple broken valves or lifters. So that leaves fuel and spark. You may have a new fuel pump, but is it pumping? Is the filter clogged? Is the fuel pressure regulator allowing it to build sufficient pressure for the injectors to inject? Do you know that the injectors are functioning? You may have enough spark to make it cough, but that may not be a strong enough spark to actually light off a cylinder full of fuel/air mix. One other possibility -- if the distributor has been worked on or monkeyed with, the timing may be off.

Never mind

My first guess is CPS. And, FWIW, a 4.0L does not have a 3-speed automatic transmission. It has a 4-speed AW4.

Not easily. A 2WD transmission has an output shaft and tailshaft housing to accept the slip yoke from the driveshaft. The tranny that mates with a transfer case for 4WD doesn't have the tailshaft or the tailshaft housing, it has a much shorter output shaft that mates to the transfer case, and a flange on the tranny case for the transfer case to bolt onto. All you need to do is swap over the transmission and transfer case from the donor XJ in tact. Don't even take them apart.

Didn't remember that there IS a "Not your stuff" area. Sorry. Lemme see if I can move it. On second thought, that area says it's for things you find on Craig's List, eBay, etc. I don't think this falls in that category. However, if the staff agrees it should be moved there, go ahead and move it, or PM me and I'll move it.

I've only been doing this auto hobby stuff for a bit over fifty years, but I've never heard of "setting" the throttle wide open to run a compression check. Sure enough, though, the 2000 XJ FSM says to do that. Dunno why. 2000 XJ FSM says compression should be between 120 and 150, so 90 is VERY low. It would be enough to run, but not to run well. A compression gauge isn't all that expensive. I'd buy a new one so you know what you have.

^^^ What he said. For reasons lost in the mists of time, Jeep was rather schizophrenic regarding their use of low- and high-pinion D30 axles. The YJ Wrangler was (IIRC) high-pinion. The TJ Wrangler, oddly enough, was low-pinion. The ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees were low pinion. The early XJs and all MJs were high-pinion. The XJ was changed to low-pinion for the 2000 and 2001 production years. So ... if your MJ really has a low-pinion front axle, it's a replacement. If so, you can use gears from a Grand Cherokee low-pinion axle. If your front axle is a replacement, it would be wise to find out what year and model vehicle it came out of, because most likely the hub/bearing units, rotors and calipers will NOT be the same as what your MJ originally used.

Strictly preference. I have always preferred manual transmission. However, after trying some of the higher rated trails at Paragon (like the boulder field), I have reluctantly had to acknowledge that automatic is far better for serious rock crawling.

Southern Connecticut. Neighbor knocked on the door this evening and said her son's 1993 XJ has a small leak in the radiator. Rather than fix it, since he has a long commute, they're going to sell it. I haven't seen it, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't been off-road and is probably in decent shape. They are a multi-XJ family (must be something in the local water). It's a 5-speed, which for a '93 should be an AX-15. 173,000 miles. If anyone is interested, I think from what she said they'll let it go cheap. Drop me a PM with a phone number and/or e-mail if you want more info and I'll pass it along to her.

I'm posting in the Pub rather than the classifieds because I'm not selling anything (at the moment). I have three XJ hulks sitting in the yard that have to be made to disappear. Before I either have them hauled out or I fire up Dr. Sawzall, if anyone within driving distance of New haven, Connecticut, can use anything off them, let me know and come on down. #1 is the worst. It WAS an '86 XJ 2.8L V6. The interior and wiring harness had been mostly stripped out by a previous owner before I got it. It was one of two same-vintage XJs he was going to merge into one driveable vehicle, then he abandoned the project. Glass is intact. Doors are mostly intact, but interior trim is gone. Drive train is still in it, so if anyone needs a 2.8L, the tranny, and whatever transfer case it has, you're welcome to them. All I plan to keep off this one is the axles and the skid plates. #2 is an '89 XJ Pioneer 4.0L. It ran a few years ago when I gave it to one of the younger guys in NAXJA, then he bought a nicer one and gave this one back. He said the engine had a knock, which could be a wrist pin or could be the flex plate. Body is rough (very). Drive train is all there. #3 is an '87 XJ Base model 4.0L. I hope to use the engine and drive train from this in an MJ. Doors and glass are solid, tailgate is good. Hasn't been stripped so most small parts should still be usable (although I haven't really paid attention to it for a couple or three years). Last call -- if you need things, send me a PM. This offer is strictly u-pull ... I'm too old, too tired, and too hot to take parts off so I can give them away.

Mate, unless you absolutely need a new front pipe, do NOT try to change it. You WILL break or strip at least one of the studs where the pipe flange bolts to the exhaust manifold, and then you'll have no choice other than to drill out the broken stubs and hope you don't trash the manifold in the process. IIRC, the four bolts at the cat flange need to be two different lengths. I think two are 1" and two and either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". Just measure what you have. Yes, the muffler clamps are strong enough without welding. That's what the factory used. I've been using them for over 50 years -- I've never welded an exhaust system in my life.

Crap! I wish people wouldn't be so "designy" with their signatures. Whatever color his is, on my monitor it doesn't even show up unless you squint and look for it. I didn't know he HAD a signature until I saw your post. (Yeah, I know ... it's the forum default. That doesn't make it good, it just shows that whoever wrote the forum software doesn't know jack about how the human eye perceives color.) Whatever happened to basic black?

ah ok, well i don't think they'll be the issue, i don't my MJ has that cause that sounds computer related and i don't have a computer, Redwolf You don't have a computer? What year MJ and what engine?

Manifold? I thought you were just replacing the muffler and tailpipe. Wherever you start, work from the front toward the rear. Heed dinghyboy's advice to line things up before clamping. But ... unless you need to replace the front exhaust (down) pipe, you won't be touching the manifold. The front pipe ends in a 4-bolt flage, and there's no way that can be misaligned, so you can bolt up a new catalytic converter (if you're replacing that" and sock it down. The cat flange connection uses 5/16" bolts, IIRC, and it takes a gasket. Don't forget the gasket. If you're buying the parts from AutoZone, I was just there half an hour ago and their listing for a 2001 Cherokee is incorrect. They show a 3-bolt gasket for the front pipe to catalytic converter, and it should be a 4-bolt gasket -- just like the Comanches.

That's all you need.-- two muffler clamps. (Three if you have to insert an adapter to make up length.)

If a picture is worth a thousand words, what did I just do? Maybe 100 or 150 pixels?

On the stock system, the catalytic converter bolts to the exhaust pipe (down pipe) with a 4-bolt flange, so it sounds like you're good on that part. All other connections are female/male slip fittings. The catalytic converter has a moderately long output put that leaves the cat as a 2-1/2" and reduces to a 2-1/4" OD. The muffler inlet is 2-1/4" ID, so the muffler slips over the cat. The muffler outlet is also 2-1/4" ID, and the tailpipe is 2-1/4" OD, so the tailpipe slips into the muffler outlet. If you need to make up length, the parts houses have short 2-1/4 ID x 2-1/4 OD adapters you can use to make up the difference.

The cam bearings don't know or care of the displacement is 4.0 or 4.7 liters. Cam bearings should not fail in 282 miles.

If it were a bad synchro, it would pop out any time you put load to it. Might be an internal adjustment, or it might be that your friend isn't shifting it fully into gear.