Eagle

You do if it's an HO. The "O2 sensor" reminder lamp is turned on by the ECU. The thread title asks specifically about Renix.

You don't have a PCM ... you have an ECU. It doesn't in any way interface with the starter motor, so it cannot cause a no crank failure. I don't think that's your problem.

Bucket seats with a mini console? Doesn't sound original, but in the AMC days there was virtually nothing that was impossible. My '88 MJ is a Chief, which was one level above Pioneer. It has a grey fabric bench seat. It had to have had a mini console when new, but the previous owner had hacked the floor and there was no console when I got it. Mine also has dual side mirrors without the joysticks.

Headlight delay and lights-on buzzer were options in all years. My '88 Cherokee had both, but I don't recall if they were part of the Pioneer package or if they were ordered separately. Ditto for intermittent wipers. The Eliminator got bucket seats, full center console, tinted glass, and sliding rear window. I think it also got "manual remote" side mirrors, where the Pioneer and even the Chief had side mirrors that didn't have the joystick adjusters. I believe the Eliminator also had under-dash (footwell) courtesy lights. This Pioneer and Chief did not.

Here's another thought -- When you swapped in the AX-15 and matching transfer case, did you put the original speedometer drive gear into the transfer case? If not, you are running a speedometer that thinks you have 3.07 gears when you actually have 3.54s, and both your speed and distance readings will be whacked.

Something doesn't seem right. According to the BF Goodrich web site, a 225/70-15 tire runs 758 revolutions per mile. That's very close to a typical 215/75-15, which runs 754 revolutions per mile. With 3.54 gears and an AX-15 transmission, at 70 MPH you should be turning 3114 RPM in 4th gear, but only 2335 in 5th gear. Did you recalibrate your tachometer when you swapped from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder engine? I don't think your tach is giving you accurate readings. I think you are actually turning closer to 2000 RPM. The factory didn't choose 3.07 gears with the 5-speeds for optimum fuel efficiency in the real world, they chose those gears to get better results on the arbitrary and artificial government economy test. In real life, 3.07 gears suck and 3.54 or even 3.73 gears should almost always result in better fuel economy on stock size tires. 3.07 gears have the engine running well below the torque peak at highway speed, and that's NOT the way to obtain better economy.

I assume you drove the front wheels right up into contact with this ledge, then tried to crawl up it from a dead stop? With 32" tires and a 2.5L engine running stock gearing, that's an excellent way to burn out your clutch, or break something. Stalling the engine probably saved you a big repair bill. The factory put a low range in the transfer case for a reason -- try using it.

What happens when the switch is in the parking lights position (halfway out)? But where and how did you tap the new rear harness into the vehicle wiring? Did you get a Comanche harness or a Cherokee harness? Did you remove your old harness at a factory connector and just plug in the "new" harness, or did you cut and splice to make te connections? Do the dash lights function when the headlight switch is in the parking light position? Do you know that rotating the knob of the headlight switch is the dimmer, and that if the knob is rotated all the way it turns off the instrument lights?

See your post #19. Looks like you have one thick shim on the driver's side, passenger side looks to have two thick shims and at least three thin shims.

And punctuation ... such as periods and commas. I recently read that using periods in text messages is considered insulting. No wonder people can't communicate any more. [/sermon] Did you splice in the new tail harness, or did you plug it in at a factory junction connector?

I very much doubt that any road is level. If it is, it was built wrong. Never mind what it looks like. You're trying to fix death wobble. Front end alignment isn't a game of "That looks pretty close," it's a matter of precision measurement. The human eye cannot see a difference of one or two degrees. Find some place with a flat, level floor. Check the floor for level with a 4-foot or 6-foot carpenter's level. And nuts probably don't have the top and bottom surfaces accurately cut parallel. Use a socket, as Don suggested.

When Hornbrod wrote "level," he meant "LEVEL" -- as in a flat floor that has zero slope in any direction. Make certain that all four tires are inflated to the correct pressure. If the vehicle isn't on a perfectly level surface, the readings you get from the angle finder are worthless. Your readings show 14 degrees of caster on one side and 16 degrees on the other. The printout from your alignment shows 9 degrees -- and even nine is too much, and hard to believe. When you can -- please jack up one side, remove the front wheel, and take a good photo of the upper ball joint. I've never seen an XJ or MJ ball joint with a castle nut like what I see in your photos. They should have a flat top with a zerk fitting in it.

A clogged catalytic converter usually results in loss of power.

Never heard of it.

Which part of the seat belt doesn't work? The short (female) end? The break because there's a flat steel spring clip inside that breaks. As far as I know that can't be repaired, so the fix is another seat belt. XJ belts work just as well as MJ. I think that short, inner section of the belt is the same length for both the XJ and the MJ.

You have an adjustable track bar. That's what you use to center your axle. After the axle has been centered, you then have to adjust the toe-in and then center the steering wheel. To be honest, the shop that did the alignment should have centered the axle first, before doing anything else.

I don't know why I even bother to post here any more. In your opening post you wrote:

The problem is, too often the discussion of death wobble conflates cause with effect. Things like sloppy tie rod ends and loose track bar brackets certainly are less effective at combating death wobble than new, tight parts -- but they can't cause death wobble. Death wobble is, after all, wobble. More to the point, it's wobble that starts in one wheel and is then transmitted to the other wheel in a constantly self-reinforcing harmonic reaction, which is why once it begins the amplitude escalates and the only way to stop it is to stop the vehicle. But something has to start the wheel(s) wobbling in the first place. That's the "cause." I commuted to and from work for an entire winter in my '88 Cherokee with a track bar that was so bad I had nearly a quarter of a turn of free play in the steering wheel. Keeping it in one lane took a lot of concentration, but there was never even a hint of death wobble. A track bar can't make a wheel wobble, therefore it can't cause death wobble.

Disagree all you want, but tire imbalance is what causes death wobble. In fact (as I have posted here many times in the past, I HAVE done what you suggest. When I experienced death wobble in my '88 MJ, I swapped to a different set of tires ... and the death wobble went away. Obviously tire balance will not fix a wallowed out track bar bracket, but a wallowed out track bar bracket also does not cause death wobble. It cause loose, sloppy steering.

Impossible. Absolutely impossible. That's why I said to use 2" spacers. 1" spacer would be like 3/4 - 1/2 inch of actual lift which is hardly noticeable unless you're really looking. It all depends on how much rake he has. If a rear SOA lifts the back 5-1/2 inches and he used 4-1/2 inch coils in front, then he doesn't need to lift the front 2 inches (or 1-3/4") to level it out. That would be too much. A 1-inch spacer adds 1 inch. A 3/4-inch spacer adds 3/4 of an inch. How you conclude that a 1-inch spacer would only lift the front by a half inch is a mystery to me.

I would add front spacers, but I would not use 2" spacers. I would use 1" to level it out, unless you have a VERY severe rake.

An XJ is identical to an MJ in the engine compartment. To accomplish this swap, you would move everything over from the XJ into the MJ. There is no need to fabricate a "cradle" for the 4.0L engine -- the engine mounts will bolt directly to the MJ frame rails. You will use the XJ radiator, and the sheet metal surrounding the radiator. It's very different from the MJ radiator.

'87 is a GM Delco alternator with the voltage regulator built in. Check cables and connections. If they're good, pull the alternator and have it bench tested.

Well, that's not right. I asked about caster, not camber. Camber is not adjustable on the MJ. He didn't change the caster. It was 9.4 degrees before and 9.4 degrees after. On both sides. His chart says the acceptable range is 5 degrees to 9 degrees. The factory service manual says the acceptable range is 7 degrees to 8 degrees, with 7-1/2 preferred. And removing shims from behind the LCAs would reduce caster, not increase it. Despite all that, a lift often creates death wobble due to not enough caster angle. It's unlikely that too much caster would result in death wobble (although it certainly isn't good for the front driveshaft u-joints). That's why I think you should be looking at tire balance. If the same shop that did this alignment also did the tire balance, I'd suggest finding a different shop.

I have repaired the factory brackets by drilling out the broken studs, tapping for a 6mm bolt, inserting new 6mm bolts, and adding a very light tack weld to hold the new "studs" in place. The originals are 5mm, IIRC, so going to 6mm is a slight upgrade, as well as getting you into solid metal for the new threads. Use anti-seize when reinstalling.