Eagle

Why is that truck so bad it has to be parted out?

Matt, of Matt's Off Road Recovery. Skip to 0:45 for his words of wisdom on wheeling with XJs:

The steering stop stops the steering travel before the internal limits of the box are reached in order to prevent damage to the box. The simple answer is: when you hit the stops, don't try to turn any farther.

Your Jeep is 34 yours old and you live in the northeast. Don't mess around, just replace all the brake lines. I suggest cunifer, because it's much more resistant to corrosion as well as being easier to work with than steel.

What do you mean "crankover"? Cranking is when the starter motor is spinning the engine. If you want a faster crank speed, get a fancy, high-dollar starter motor. If you mean the engine actually starting, that's not "crankover," and if it starts within about 5 revolutions that's normal and there's no way to make it start sooner.

Well, that's a bit different. For anyone else, confronting thieves directly is risky business.

Normal

No, it would not have been cool if the guy (or guys) had come back. Much better to let the cops handle it.

There is (or used to be) a socket in the HELP! line that all the parts chains carry that's a perfect replacement. It's not listed for Jeeps, it's listed for some Ford vehicle. The problem is that you've lost the ground to the parking/turn lamps. They're trying to find a ground through the headlight circuit but, when you turn on the headlights, that can't work. You need new sockets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html Often on sale for $3.99 These are handy, too: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html

No, the "reverse" pump is for the 2.5L and 4.0L engines with a serpentine belt. The water pump for the early 2.5Ls and the 4.2Ls has the same body and mounting pattern, but those engines used conventional V-belts and rotated in the opposite direction. Since the V-belt configuration goes back to the 1960s, it's considered the "forward" rotation, and the serpentine belt pump is reverse rotation.

The one thing I have ever found about which my grandfather was wrong was his advice to NOT use the parking brake in winter. His theory was that it could freeze in the on position. In reality, what usually causes the cables to seize up is lack of use. If the parking brake is used regularly, it should purge itself of any incipient corrosion on a daily basis. For Whitaker717: Both rear brakes act as parking brakes, There is a single cable from the foot peddle in the cab to a point roughly at the back of the cab. At that point there's a bracket called a "splitter," from which two cables run to the two rear wheels. Any one of the three cables might be frozen up -- or all three might be.

Yes, on the Renix system. The Chysler system reversed the polarity AND changed the resistance, from 0-88 to something like 100-5. If my idea works, the gauge won't be completely accurate (but they never are, anyway), but my hope was that it would at least swing in the correct direction.

I haven't tried it, but I sort of figured the easy solution would be to trace the printed circuit back to the header, then pull the two wires for the fuel gauge out of the connector and reverse their positions.

I don't understand. Are you saying that your '88 fuel gauge reads correctly in the '96 cluster, or does it read backwards?

I ran Cooper Discoverers (the originals, before they started adding alphabet codes after "Discoverer") on my '88 XJ for years. Now that I'm looking for tires for the 2000 XJ, I went to the Cooper website. In the Discoverer line-up, they offer NOTHING in the stock 225/75-15 size. Not the Evolution H/T, not the Discoverer ATR, not the AT3 4S, and not the SRX. They do offer the AT3 4S in 235/75-15, but that one wasn't my first or second choice. I'm disappointed. I know the trend is toward larger rim sizes, but it really feels like Cooper has abandoned us.

The factory heavy duty cooling system used an external cooler in-line with the trans cooler circuit in the radiator.

FWIW, 3.73s with 31s works out to EXACTLY the same overall final drive ratio as 3.55s with stock tires.

It looks level to me. You don't need to raise the front at all, and certainly not 2 inches.

So you told him, "Because they're beautiful." And he went home and said, "Mom -- Daddy's gone off his rocker."

If you're comfortable doing board-level work, why not replace the resistor with a potentiometer so the tach can be used on either engine -- like the '87 and newer ones?

That's the way to convert them, but I don't have the specs on the resistor ratings.

That's probably a good way to handle it. For awhile, just before Sears folded their tent, instead of replacing broken ratchets with new product they were replacing them with rebuilt wrenches, and they weren't anywhere near the quality of new. I replaced one 3/8-drive ratchet and I don't think the new one was any better than the one it replaced.

Why is fuel injection an advantage? Right now, my 2000 XJ is eating throttle position sensors. I can't figure it out. The ONLY reason I haven't changed it over to a carburetor and a conventional ignition is that I have to wait three more years before it's exempt from emissions testing. I've drive probably about a million miles on carburetors. Yeah, when it runs right electronic fuel injection might be slightly more fuel efficient. On the other hand, my 1966 Rambler American got 28 MPG on the highway, and the only car I've owned since then that would beat it was a 1982 Honda 1300 FE. Which had a carburetor.

You haven't been around cars very long, have you? I grew up with AMC vehicles (starting with Hudsons, before it became AMC). "Back in the day," we didn't have overdrive. We had 3-speed manual transmissions. The usual gearing worked out to 24 miles-per-hour per 1,000 RPM. Do the math -- that's 2500 RPM at 60 MPH. An ever 3,000 RPM was a 72 MP cruise. My brother and sister-in-law had a Gremlin with the 258 c.i.d. in-line 6 and a three speed -- the forerunner of the Jeep 4.0L engine. They drove it for a couple of hundred thousand miles, then he sold it -- to an auto parts store that used it for parts delivery. When he finally lost track of it, it had over 300,000 miles on it, with no major engine work. Don't worry about overdrive.