Eagle

Massive overkill -- I've always used a bench vise. Nice to have around, though.

I think that depends on the rating of the relay -- the ones I've generally seen are rated for 40 amps. I have no idea how much the lights draw. But there's no reason at all why you can't control two or three relays with a single switch. The heavy draw from the lights is all on the relay(s) -- the switch only transfers a tiny load to switch the relay(s).

^^^ What he said.

Well, Borgeson does make top quality parts. Whether theirs is worth $100 (66%) more than Crown I can't say. Have you checked out Flaming River? http://www.flamingriver.com/ They also sell just the joints.

With that much weight in it, I would jack it up to near stock ride height and put jack stands (or concrete blocks) under it to save the springs (if it's not too late).

That's very neat. A long time ago I bought a fused marine switch panel that never got used on a boat -- but I haven't added enough accessory circuits to have a need for it. Like this, except mine has six switches and fuses: Newer version has circuit breakers: http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Toggle-Switch-Panels-8-Inch/dp/B0000AZ7X7/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1425561040&sr=8-13&keywords=marine+switch+panel

Borgeson makes terrific products, but they sure are proud of what they make. What's wrong with your steering shaft that you think it needs to be replaced?

Toe-in isn't set correctly.

Would not engage, or would not DISengage?

Then 4x4 is NOT working.

You're looking for the wrong thing. The crankshaft was polished, so the crank is UNDERSIZED, not oversized. You need UNDERsized bearings. What's the oil pressure at 1500 RPM? 2000 RPM?

It could be a stretched chain in the transfer case -- or it could be that the posi-lock isn't fully engaging.

I thought the TCU connectors were present but not used on the Renix 5-speeds. I would go look under the hood on my '88 XJ, but it's buried under about a foot and a half of snow. EDIT: Sorry, I was thinking TPS. Isn't the TCU harness a free-standing harness?

No. If the blower works on any setting, the blower motor is not the problem. The resistor pack is also not likely to be the problem, because when that fails the ONLY speed that works is high speed. I'd say you have some detective work ahead of you.

Far from being a "worst scenario," I think there's no question the F-250 is by far the better choice. I had a full-size Cherokee with Quadra-Drive and a V-8 engine as a plow vehicle for a number of years, and it was marginal in heavy, wet snow. I'm not even considering putting a plow on an MJ. There is no such thing as "overkill" when plowing.

First choice: NGK (conventional, not platinum) Second choice: Champion Truck Plugs Third choice: see above

I think it's a bad idea. Plows are designed for stock height vehicles. We know that a 5" lift messes up the control arm angles -- the control arm drop kits are sold to correct that. The same applies to the plow rig. Instead of the plow attachments and pistons running more or less horizontal, they'll be pitched at a significant angle. The physics and geometry of that mean that when pushing heavy snow, there will be a tendency for the truck to be trying to "pole vault" over the plow rather than pushing it straight forward.

The sites report that they don't fit because that size was never used by the factory. The largest from the factory was 225/75R15. That said, even as I type my wife's Cherokee is rolling on Wrangler Radials in 235/75R15 and they fit fine. My old '88 Cherokee is on 31x10.50-15s, with no lift -- and the Cherokee rear wheel wells are smaller than the Comanche's.

Nope.

In general, 16" tires cost more than 15" tires of overall equal size. I own two 2000 Cherokees. My wife's is a Classic, with 16" wheels. Mine is a Sport, with 15" wheels. The Sport came with 225/75R15 tires, the Classic came with 225/70R16 tires. They are the same diameter. The difference in aspect ratio makes up for the larger rims.

Are you absolutely certain the gear ratio is the same in both axles?

Do they have them? For the REAR of a Comanche? Stock, OEM replacements? I didn't know they existed.

A friend from NAXJA did have one of those "OMG what have I done" cases. FSM (2000, since the MJ manual is from 1986 and doesn't include the 4.0L engine or clutch):

Please do NOT have a 4.0L flywheel turned. The factory service manual very specifically tells us NOT to turn the flywheel. It's not easy to see, but it's not flat, and turning it often results in clutch problems after the replacement.

Absolutely correct. (Unfortunately.)