Eagle

Yeah, because the 2.5L puts out so much more torque than the 4.0L. :) I always assumed they used the damper to reduce vibration, and I always wondered how necessary it is. I didn't know Chrysler eliminated it on the later models. Knowing that, I would either leave the old one in place, or just eliminate it.

Do the two bolts that hold the CPS into the bell housing have shoulders that fit tightly into the holes on the CPS mounting ears? Those are supposed to be shoulder bolts, and the shoulders are necessary to locate the CPS fairly precisely. The tip has to clear the bumps on the flywheel while being close enough to generate the electrical impulse. If a previous owner lost the shoulder bolts and used regular bolts with full-length treads, you could have mounted the first CPS too close, and it got whacked the first time you turned the enngine over.

Well, that IS the test for the CPS so, either your new CPS is defective or you're not running the test correctly. You are using a digital multimeter, yes? And the dial is set for A/C volts? You are probing the connector to the CPS, not the mating connector to the vehicle wiring harness? IMHO the resistance test is useless. The FSM says to measure the resistance, but they want us to measure it at normal operating temperature. How you're supposed to get an engine that won't start up to normal operating temperature is a mystery to me.

What happens is that the CPS has a magnet in it. The flywheel (or flex plate, for an automatic) has unevenly-spaced bumps around the perimeter. When one of the bumps interrupts the magnetic field, it generates a small electrical pulse -- essentially like a generator. If the pulse isn't strong enough (approx. .5 volts), the signal won't be read by the ECU.

Look closely at the ears on the box. Going from memory from the last time I changed a steering box, I doubt there's enough space to get a nut on there and properly tighten it. Remember, you also need a washer and a lock washer to be secure.

In this case, "good enough" is not good enough. Yes, definitely.

The pilot bearing is usually replaced when doing a clutch, but it is NOT a "clutch" pilot bearing. It doesn't in any way contact the clutch. The pilot bearing is what keeps the nose of the transmission input shaft centered in the crankshaft. So what you need to match is the O.D. to the crankshaft, and the I.D. to your transmission input shaft. (The reduced diameter at the tip, not the diameter at the splined portion.)

Possibly he was, but this thread is about headlight bezels, not header panels. And the header panel changed in 91 along with the grille and bezels.

Sorry, no it isn't. The headlight bezels and the grille are all separate parts on the Cherokee and Comanche. 1984 through 1996 all look the same from a distance, but the later ones were changed so that the horizontal trim strip across the top of the headlights and grill was incorporated into the headlight bezels and grille rather than being a separate part. I thought Chrysler made that change beginning in 1990, but it might not have happened until 1991. {Edit to add} Quadratec shows the years as 84-90 and 91-96.

Post #4: http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/

Massive overkill -- I've always used a bench vise. Nice to have around, though.

I think that depends on the rating of the relay -- the ones I've generally seen are rated for 40 amps. I have no idea how much the lights draw. But there's no reason at all why you can't control two or three relays with a single switch. The heavy draw from the lights is all on the relay(s) -- the switch only transfers a tiny load to switch the relay(s).

^^^ What he said.

Well, Borgeson does make top quality parts. Whether theirs is worth $100 (66%) more than Crown I can't say. Have you checked out Flaming River? http://www.flamingriver.com/ They also sell just the joints.

With that much weight in it, I would jack it up to near stock ride height and put jack stands (or concrete blocks) under it to save the springs (if it's not too late).

That's very neat. A long time ago I bought a fused marine switch panel that never got used on a boat -- but I haven't added enough accessory circuits to have a need for it. Like this, except mine has six switches and fuses: Newer version has circuit breakers: http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Toggle-Switch-Panels-8-Inch/dp/B0000AZ7X7/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1425561040&sr=8-13&keywords=marine+switch+panel

Borgeson makes terrific products, but they sure are proud of what they make. What's wrong with your steering shaft that you think it needs to be replaced?

Toe-in isn't set correctly.

Would not engage, or would not DISengage?

Then 4x4 is NOT working.

You're looking for the wrong thing. The crankshaft was polished, so the crank is UNDERSIZED, not oversized. You need UNDERsized bearings. What's the oil pressure at 1500 RPM? 2000 RPM?

It could be a stretched chain in the transfer case -- or it could be that the posi-lock isn't fully engaging.

I thought the TCU connectors were present but not used on the Renix 5-speeds. I would go look under the hood on my '88 XJ, but it's buried under about a foot and a half of snow. EDIT: Sorry, I was thinking TPS. Isn't the TCU harness a free-standing harness?

No. If the blower works on any setting, the blower motor is not the problem. The resistor pack is also not likely to be the problem, because when that fails the ONLY speed that works is high speed. I'd say you have some detective work ahead of you.

Far from being a "worst scenario," I think there's no question the F-250 is by far the better choice. I had a full-size Cherokee with Quadra-Drive and a V-8 engine as a plow vehicle for a number of years, and it was marginal in heavy, wet snow. I'm not even considering putting a plow on an MJ. There is no such thing as "overkill" when plowing.