Eagle

Considering the the Wrangler YJ was leaf spring all around and had a lousy reputation for articulation, and that Jeep's solution with the TJ Wrangler was to go to coils on all four corners, I see no benefit to converting a front coil suspension to leaf springs. I think a good long-arm suspension kit would be far superior, for a lot less money.

How did you verify that the "new" booster is good? The problem you're describing is the classic symptom of a bad booster. How much did you change out? Are you using the XJ front distribution block/proportioning valve or the original MJ distribution block? Does your truck still have the rear height sensing proportioning valve? If so, did you follow the factory procedure to get the rear bypass line bled?

287,000+ for the one in my '88 Cherokee. GL5 is the recommended gear lube for the BA10/5. That's all mine has ever seen. It's the AX-5 and AX-15 that should not see GL4 or GL5.

The factory parts manual just calls is "Bolt" -- part number 3420 1506

The typical 32 is a 32x11.50-15. Actual diameter is slightly less than 32, more like 31.7", and width at the sidewalls is about 11.4". 11.4" is 289.56mm. Call it a 285 for nominal tire size purposes (slightly narrower), or bump it to 295. Using 285 as the width, then we have to figure the aspect ratio. Were looking for an overall diameter of 32". Subtract 17" and that leaves 15 for the tire, and then divide by 2 to get the cross section height: 7.5", which is 190.5mm. 190.5 / 285 = .668. So in a 17-inch tire you're looking for a 285/65-17. I have no idea if such a tire exists. In a 16-inch tire size, a 285/75-16 is 32.8" in diameter (basically a 33) and 11.2" in cross-section width. Call it a 33x11.50-16.

How do we know this? Why didn't someone tell me before I replaced the passenger side motor mount without touching the oil filter adapter?

Are you certain? I've looked at the CR Laurence MJ sliders, and they are definitely NOT the same as the OEM. They may have glass to repair their slider, but I doubt they have glass for the factory slider. But I hope you're right and I'm wrong. http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1336:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653&pom=0 It's interesting that they say their 4-panel window is an "original" (their quotes, not mine) four-panel design, when the original/factory design was a 3-panel. Theirs also has a full perimeter frame -- the factory unit has a "frame" strip across the top and bottom, but the end panels are exposed glass that glues directly to the opening lip.

It's always nice to know you don't have to swap out the engine ...

You're right. My only excuse is that it was late and I was tired. You shouldn't need any resistors. The ohm range for the Renix is 0 to 88. The range for the HO is (IIRC) something like 104 to 4. The substantive difference is the reversed polarity. You can fix that by tracing the two leads from the fuel gauge back to the plug at the back of the cluster. Remove the corresponding two wires from the plug and reverse their positions. That will not reverse polarity to the gauge, it only shifts the sender pot slider sensing point. To reverse polarity you have to do it at the sender potentiometer; remove the output lead from the + potentiometer leg to the opposite - leg at the sender. The ohm difference between the Renix and HO pots is negligible, but will cause a ~20% difference in the fuel gauge indication.

You shouldn't need any resistors. The ohm range for the Renix is 0 to 88. The range for the HO is (IIRC) something like 104 to 4. The substantive difference is the reversed polarity. You can fix that by tracing the two leads from the fuel gauge back to the plug at the back of the cluster. Remove the corresponding two wires from the plug and reverse their positions.

If it has been sitting for a long time I suspect a frozen caliper. Either the caliper is stock and can't slide on the mounting pins, or the piston is stuck inside the caliper and isn't fully releasing when you take your foot off the brakes.

The aux fan also needs a relay, which you will probably have to add if the truck didn't have the fan from the factory.

The glass is curved, IIRC, so it's not going to be easy getting one made. Al auto glass except the windshield is tempered, and you can't cut tempered glass ... nor can you bend it. I know the factory sliders are curved, so I assume the fixed glass is also curved.

Why would a bad booster cause the brakes to fade, only when going downhill? That doesn't compute. Brake fade is almost always caused be heat, and if the brake fluid isn't fairly fresh that's the first thing I would look at. Next thing would be a caliper that's hanging up and dragging. Did the 88's have bad boosters? That's very subjective. My '88 XJ has 287,000 miles on it, and it still has the original booster. No complaints from this corner.

In 1988 the auxiliary fan could be provided as part of: Air conditioning Off-Road Package Heavy duty cooling package Trailer towing prep package] It was not standard on all vehicles.

Yep, computer-controlled carburetor. Piece of excrement, but computer controlled excrement. I think you may need an O2 sensor in there -- I don't think it was only in California.

I never heard of a sleeve for the rear main seal. I'd say it's impossible -- how could you installit, even if you took the crank out of the block? I believe the double-lip seal is a Felpro product, and available from NAPA.

I think that's exactly what I need. Thanks for posting the source for those shims ... I was going to try making my own.

Bung for the O2 sensor.

No, it would go the other way. The sender for the idiot light is, obviously, an ON/OFF switch. The sender for the gauges is a variable resister. The resistance is 0 ohms when cold (no resistance = "ON"), and 88 ohms (high resistance ~ "OFF") to read all the way at the hot end of the scale. Alternate idea: I have always liked the concept of a warning light to back up the gauges. The MJs have that status light cluster to the left of the primary instruments. There are typically several unused lights (or spaces) in that cluster. What about adding an HO-style thermostst housing with an idiot light sender, and connecting that to an unused space on the status light cluster?

Where is the diagram you're trying to post the link to?

Well, to be fair the extended length you cited was off by three inches. That's enough that it could have made the difference between fitting and not fitting. When I took the 4" lift off my '88 MJ, the lift shocks were much too long. I had a pair of shocks that I wanted to use, and fully extended they were half an inch too short to even put on the vehicle. An extra three inches would have meant I could have used them.

Okay, then the shock you cited will work. In fact, it's the OEM replacement for the Comanche. But your lengths are wrong. It's 13.375" collapsed and 23.125" extended. The mid-travel length is 18.250".

I just posted in your thread about "What sensor is this?" That is the newer, external slave cylinder, and it is NOT OEM for an '89 MJ. This confirms my guess that the previous owner swapped in a newer engine, apparently with the clutch and probably the transmission all together, and then couldn't get it to run. There is a way to connect your master cylinder to that slave, but it's strictly a do-it-yourself setup. A number of years ago, and the annual NACFest off-road weekend in Pennsylvania, one of the guys with a '94 XJ had the plastic line from the master to the slave melt and rupture. He's a good driver, and he made it back to the campground with no clutch. He and another of the guys went into town, caught the local auto parts emporium just before they closed, and bought a bag full of miscellaneous fittings and a length of steel brake line. It took them a couple of hours, but they did come up with a combination of parts that worked -- and the steel line won't melt!

The first one is for a 1986 thru 1990 engine, with the Renix system. The second is for the 1991 and newer engines with the Chrysler injection/ignition system. Also, the flywheels are different, because the two CPS types don't operate the same. What year is the Jeep you bought? It might have a replacement engine. On the right side of the block, forward of the distributor IIRC, there should be a flat area with a bunch of codes stamped into it. If you can find it, post what it says and it may tell us what year the engine is. If it wasn't running when you bought it, my guess is that you have a Renix model, the previous owner swapped in a newer engine, and he didn't realize that the ignition and injection systems aren't compatible. So the new engine wouldn't start, he got frustrated, and passed the problem on to you to sort out.