Eagle

Nope. Yepp.

Do you have the locating dowels in place? If not, the bell housing might be able to shift enough to start loosening the bolts.

A "noid light." I think you can buy them at all the major parts stores.

I didn't say anything about miles or kilometers. If your odometer hasn't been recalibrated, you can't calculate your fuel economy because the distance your odometer says you drove since the last fill-up probably isn't correct.

How much does a steering knuckle cost? I think the inserts are brass for two reasons: First, they are sacrificial; they're made to be softer than the ball joint or the knuckle so they are the part that gets wallowed out first, rather than damaging the knuckle itself. Second, with brass there's less chance of the ball joint stud getting frozen into the tapered hole in the insert. Which, of course, leads to the question: Why didn't they use the insert on BOTH ball joints? I dunno. I wasn't there and they didn't consult me.

Well, now -- this gets interesting. For 1986 thru 1993 the factory parts manual shows the split ring at the top of the steering knuckle, and they show a metric boatload of different knuckles -- left and right, with different part numbers for with or w/o ABS. The split ring is part number 8350 0203. The FPM also shows a complete ball joint kit as a single part number, and the view of that shows the split ring with the upper ball joint. The 1994-1996 FPM shows the same split ring and the same part number, but now it's on the bottom of the knuckle. And they show only ONE part number for the knuckle on each side -- not different depending on whether or not you have ABS.The ball joint kit is still available, and the view of that also shows the split ring with the lower ball joint. For 1997-99, the part number for the split ring remains the same, it's moved back to the top of the knuckle, and the name has changed from "split ring" to "Ring,ball joint." The part numbers for the knuckles are the same as for '94-'96. For the 2000 XJ, the ball joint kit is still the same, the split ring still has the same part number and is still shown with the upper ball joint, but the knuckles have new part numbers.

Sorry - I copied the link but I forgot to paste it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/1175-cws-mj-2005-10/page-20

Have your speedometer and odometer been recalibrated to adjust for the larger tires and non-stock gearing?

The oil pressure sender is on the passenger side, next to the oil filter. I think what you're looking at is the knock sensor. I have no idea what the bare wire is, though.

I wouldn't give up on it, and I wouldn't put on "little" patch panels with the idea of lasting for a year or so. Since there are holes, I would start by washing out the frame rail with a power washer, to get ALL the dirt and mud and gunk out. Then I would get a couple of aerosol cans of rust killer and spray the inside of the frame liberally. Let it dry. Maybe set up a small fan to get some air moving through the frame. Then I would get some heavy-gauge sheet steel and cut it to the shape of the frame rail, up and over the axle. Keep it just a tiny bit less in height that the height of the frame rail. Weld it on. Then take another piece of sheet steel and make up a full-length U-plate to wrap around under the frame rail, with legs turned up on both sides. Weld that on. Paint liberally with multiple coats of Rust-Oleum gloss or semi-gloss black, then spray on a heavy coat of rustproofing. (NOT "undercoating" -- "rustproofing." They are not interchangeable.) Here's CWLONGSHOT's build thread, to give you some ideas on the repair. Scroll to post #391 for the frame repair sequence.

Possible bad CPS? Possible clogged catalytic converter?

Yes it does. You may choose not to replace them, but I know for a fact that the inserts are there in an '89 Cherokee.

The O2 sensor is supposed to be good for approximately 80,000 miles. Being an '88, your truck has a Renix ignition and injection system. If it's set up similar to the 4.0L, in addition to the temperature sensor on the head that sends data to the temp gauge, there should be another temperature sensor down on the left (driver's) side of the block. That's the one that sends temperature data to the ECU, and that's what determines when the ECU switches out of open loop (warm-up) mode into closed lop (normal run) mode. In warm-up mode, the system runs in a rich condition. After the engine gets to normal operating temperature (actually, a bit before -- around 165 degrees) the ECU kicks in and starts controlling the injection. First possibility is that someone put in a cold thermostat, and the engine isn't getting warm enough to switch to closed loop mode. That'll cause a rich condition. Saw it on a trail ride some years ago. Guy had a 4.0L. He hit a rock and broke his exhaust header. The exhaust leak caused the ECU to think it was running lean, so it started injecting a lot more gas. It didn't all burn in the cylinder, so the exhaust was pumping out burning fuel -- so much that the header pipes were a bright yellow-orange color. So you might have a bad thermostat, or you could have a bad temperature sensor on the block.

Find a way to plug ALL the oil return holes. Pull the valve pushrods and plug the holes. If there's old oil in there that's been cooked, you'll chip of some tiny bits that are HARD, and they don't do nice things to the internals of the engine. Be sure to keep the pushrods in order, and keep the tops on top.

Don't pack it, but wipe some good wheel bearing grease or something similar on the ID of the bushing and the OD of the tranny input shaft.

Yeah, because the 2.5L puts out so much more torque than the 4.0L. :) I always assumed they used the damper to reduce vibration, and I always wondered how necessary it is. I didn't know Chrysler eliminated it on the later models. Knowing that, I would either leave the old one in place, or just eliminate it.

Do the two bolts that hold the CPS into the bell housing have shoulders that fit tightly into the holes on the CPS mounting ears? Those are supposed to be shoulder bolts, and the shoulders are necessary to locate the CPS fairly precisely. The tip has to clear the bumps on the flywheel while being close enough to generate the electrical impulse. If a previous owner lost the shoulder bolts and used regular bolts with full-length treads, you could have mounted the first CPS too close, and it got whacked the first time you turned the enngine over.

Well, that IS the test for the CPS so, either your new CPS is defective or you're not running the test correctly. You are using a digital multimeter, yes? And the dial is set for A/C volts? You are probing the connector to the CPS, not the mating connector to the vehicle wiring harness? IMHO the resistance test is useless. The FSM says to measure the resistance, but they want us to measure it at normal operating temperature. How you're supposed to get an engine that won't start up to normal operating temperature is a mystery to me.

What happens is that the CPS has a magnet in it. The flywheel (or flex plate, for an automatic) has unevenly-spaced bumps around the perimeter. When one of the bumps interrupts the magnetic field, it generates a small electrical pulse -- essentially like a generator. If the pulse isn't strong enough (approx. .5 volts), the signal won't be read by the ECU.

Look closely at the ears on the box. Going from memory from the last time I changed a steering box, I doubt there's enough space to get a nut on there and properly tighten it. Remember, you also need a washer and a lock washer to be secure.

In this case, "good enough" is not good enough. Yes, definitely.

The pilot bearing is usually replaced when doing a clutch, but it is NOT a "clutch" pilot bearing. It doesn't in any way contact the clutch. The pilot bearing is what keeps the nose of the transmission input shaft centered in the crankshaft. So what you need to match is the O.D. to the crankshaft, and the I.D. to your transmission input shaft. (The reduced diameter at the tip, not the diameter at the splined portion.)

Possibly he was, but this thread is about headlight bezels, not header panels. And the header panel changed in 91 along with the grille and bezels.

Sorry, no it isn't. The headlight bezels and the grille are all separate parts on the Cherokee and Comanche. 1984 through 1996 all look the same from a distance, but the later ones were changed so that the horizontal trim strip across the top of the headlights and grill was incorporated into the headlight bezels and grille rather than being a separate part. I thought Chrysler made that change beginning in 1990, but it might not have happened until 1991. {Edit to add} Quadratec shows the years as 84-90 and 91-96.

Post #4: http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/