Eagle

True. Truss, and chromoly axle shafts. And a brake upgrade would be advisable with big tires. It can be done, but it costs money. Which comes back to the basic reality that the cost of lifting (or going big) increase exponentially.

You can use a Cherokee wiring harness. The stop and taillight portion will be different, but that's easy to fix with the wiring diagrams, which can be downloaded from the Comanche Club site. OR -- personally, I have never liked the fact that the Comanche's rear lights are set up so the brake lights use the same bulbs as the hazard flashers, and the brakes override the hazards. The Cherokee has dedicated hazard flashers that are independent of the brakes. If I were starting with a clean slate, I would use the Cherokee setup, put amber bulbs in the backup light sockets and use those for the turn and hazard signals, and wire in some low-profile LED floods as back-up lights.

Respectfully, IMHO you are approaching this backwards. As a rule, for a lot of reasons, the goal is to run as little lift as possible while getting where you need to go. The cost of lifting increases exponentially -- meaning that a 4-inch lift doesn't cost twice as much as a 2-inch lift, it costs four times as much. Also, bigger tires and more lift mean worse fuel mileage, and gas prices are going through the roof right now. The proper approach (again, IMHO) is to figure out what size tires you need to run ("need," not "Gee those 44s will look cool I gotta have 'em"), then work out the least amount of lift you'll need to run those tires. On factory Jeep rims, you can run 31x10.50-15 tires on a Comanche with NO lift. Take a look at what's included with these lift kits you are considering, read some of the build threads on this site, and figure out what's NOT included in those kits. Then start looking at how much more you're going to have to spend to make those lift kits work. And then price tires. YIKES!

I hope you mean D30 for the front. If all you have in the rear is a Dana 35, do NOT lift it and DO NOT run tires larger than 31s.

Do both. If you just have to "build" one (which for me translates into "carve up"), build the worse one and restore the better one to as close to original as possible. For the 2.8L, as eaglescout suggested, swap in a GM 3.4L (from a rear-engine car). It's the same block, so it will be a bolt-in swap for a much better engine. The only thing to watch out for is that the 2.8L is externally balanced -- it has a weight on the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced -- no eccentric weight on the flywheel. If you can't use the 3.4L flywheel, take the 2.8L flywheel to an automotive machine shop and have them neutral balance it.

Plus the 3800 is hardly appropriate for a 16-year old novice driver. However, a GM 3.4L V-6 makes a nice swap into an early XJ or MJ. Pretty much bolt-in except for neutral balancing the flywheel.

Well done!

Honda Civic.

No hay otras luces traseras que puedan ser sustituidas directamente al Comanche. Algunas personas han utilizado las luces traseras del Cherokee 1997-2001, pero esta solución requiere una carrocería personalizada. ¿Sabe usted que ahora hay un reemplazo para la lente exterior de las luces traseras originales? No se trata de un conjunto completo, sino sólo de la lente roja, que debe fijarse al cuerpo original de la luz trasera.

From the photo, I don't think your front springs look like they have sagged. Give us a measurement from the center of the hubcap straight up to the underside of the flare lip.

I spotted that odd shift pattern immediately. Yeah, that would tend to mess up a lot of folks. Of course, today most "kids" under the age of thirty have never driven a standard transmission, so ...

Drop brackets should not be assumed to be a cure-all. My '88 MJ had a TrailMaster 4" lift -- with drop brackets -- on it when I bought it. I had death wobble, which was caused by the tires being out of balance.

Why is the rear wheel off-center in the wheel arch?

Bueno. Muchas gracias.

The rear bumper and the rear hatch look good. That roof rack must be worth something, too. I really admire that exhaust. That was ... "creative"

Need a translation for "Windows desktop." My translation software sees "desktop" and gives me "escritorio" -- which is the word for a physical desk. What do Spanish-speaking geeks call the Windows desktop on your monitor?

The Cherokee, as far as I know, never saw the AW4 behind the 4-cylinder. That was only in the MJ, and I'm not sure all years were made that way. The 205L Cherokees used a Chrysler 904 automatic transmission.

What factory bypass for the CPS. Did you mean bypass for the ballast resistor?

Those aren't all that common.

Now that you mention it ... I own one of those. I lent it to a friend several years ago ... hmmmmmm

Sounds do-able (once the frost thaws and the ground dries up). Thanks

I see it. And if it was an XJ forum and I was there, it had to be NAXJA because that's the only XJ forum I participated in

That's the one. PM sent I would still be interested in a full overhead console for 2000, if anyone happens to find one. Preferably gray.

Does anyone know how much a 242 transfer case weighs? I need to pull the one in my wife's XJ to rebuild it, and I don't know if I can bench press it from under the vehicle in the driveway or if I'm going to have to have a shop pull it for me.

If anyone is cruising junkyards, I'd appreciate it if you would try to find a dome light assembly for a late-model (99-01) Cherokee. My 2000 Sport has the small one -- just two map lights and the center overhead light. One of the map lights burned out and ruined the lens. I'd like to replace it, but we don't have u-pull yards in Connecticut. Although what I have is the small dome light assembly, if someone comes up with the larger overhead console for the '99-01 Cherokee, I would be very happy to install that. My wife's XJ has to full overhead console, and I miss it when driving my XJ. If anyone has a line on either type, please let me know.