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Everything posted by Eagle
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And, lastly, on the first generation clusters the instruments did not go to zero when you shut off the ignition. They stayed wherever they were pointing when the power was shut off. I'm not 100% certain that applied for the 1986 model year, but I know that was the case with the '84 XJ Wagoneer I once had.
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http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Hinges.htm
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Snow is the opposite of sand -- you DON'T want soft tires to try to "float" over the surface, you want the tires to dig down through the snow to something solid. Higher pressures (street pressures) are good. Narrow tires are better in snow than narrow tires, but ... you've got what you've got.
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Is the upper hinge pulling away from the door post, or does it just need new hinge pins?
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One thing you can do with an idle tach (or any aftermarket tach you can hook up) is to see if a change in throttle results in the same change on both tachs. Say your dashboard tach reads 3500 RPM at idle, and an external tach reads 800 RPM. Move the throttle enough to bump the reading on the aftermarket tach to ... let's say ... 1500 RPM. That's a change of 700 RPM. Then you look at the dash and see if the tach in your cluster also moved by 700 RPM -- if it was 3500, it should now be reading 4200 RPM. Then run the idle tach up another 500 or 1000 RPM, and see if the tach in the cluster also changes by 500 or 1000 RPM. If the change is consistent, then the tach in the cluster is reading properly but the needle isn't positioned correctly. I ***THINK*** (based on reading posts about installing decals to make the gauges into white-faced instruments) that you can carefully pull the needle off and reposition it.
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An idle tachometer is a hand-held diagnostic instrument. You would know if you have one because it would be in a drawer or on a shelf in your garage or workshop.
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Full name is San Carlos de Bariloches. If driving from Chile, head south from Santiago to Osorno, spend a night in Osorno (or nearby), then head east to cross into Argentina and San Carlos.
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Do you have an idle tachometer? Your second photo shows it reading 3600 RPM at idle -- it should be about 750 RPM. You need to compare what this tach is reading against a tachometer that you know is reasonably accurate.
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replaced water pump, now overheating ?
Eagle replied to thejum57's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You wrote that you have a 2.5L. Do you have a serpentine belt, or conventional V- belts? If you have V-belts, you need a water pump with "forward" rotation. If you have a serpentine belt, you need a water pump with reverse rotation. They share a housing and bolt pattern, because both can go on the same engine. You'll need to verify which pump you got. -
My late wife was from Chile. I've seen a LOT of Chile (except for the very southern part -- wife said it's cold down there). Also saw Macchu Picchu, and a place named San Carlos in Argentina that was a lot like being in the Swiss Alps.
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I'm considering an off-the-wall project, involving a 2.5L MJ. I don't care for the throttle body injection in the early 2.5L MJs. As I ramp up to putting my '88 2.5L back on the road, I'm considering going "old school" and just converting to a carburetor rather than spend the money on a new fuel injector (not cheap). And, if I go to a carburetor, I might just go to conventional ignition, too, and eliminate the CPS. If anyone comes across an '84 or '85 XJ 4-cylinder in a u-pull yard, please price out those parts and let me know what you'd want to pull 'em for me. Thanks.
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I'm going to be converting a 2WD MJ to 4WD and I'd like to use a 242 transfer case. I have two shift mechanisms, with the shift gate that sits under the console, for the 231 transfer case, but nothing for the 242. Hard to find around here -- Connecticut outlawed u-pull junk yards at least 25 years ago. If anyone has or can get a couple of the transfer case shift gates for the 242 (Selec-Trac), please send me a PM. I'll also need the plastic bezel with the Selec-Trac shift pattern on it. I'd like to get two of each, so I'll be ready if I decide to convert my good MJ to Selec-Trac.
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AMC HEI Conversion Distributors
Eagle replied to jtdesigns's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Holy thread necromancy, Batman! This thread started in March of 2009, and was last posted in a year and a half ago. Is this a new record for thread resuscitation? -
It is a different key.
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Not how it's connected -- whether or not there is a potentiometer on the back of the tach. There have been photos posted here in the past showing the back of the old and new style tach, that show what the potentiometer looks like. But yours is off by so much at idle that calibration isn't the problem. Let's say idle speed should be 1000 RPM (I know, it isn't, but let's make the match easy). It's a 6 cylinder, and a 4-stroke, so the for 1000 revolutions tach "sees" 3000 impulses per minute. But a 4 cylinder only fires 2000 times in 1000 revolutions, so if a 4-cylinder tach is installed in a 6-cylinder vehicle, it will display 3000 impulses as 1500 RPM, not 1000. In other words, a 4-cylinder tach will read 50% higher than it should, across the scale. Yours is starting out at 3500 to 3600, which would mean if it's a 4-cylinder tach you're still idling at 2000 RPM. I think the needle is out of position on your tach. Do you have an idle tachometer? Can you check to see if a difference of 500 RPM on your tach is really 500 RPM?
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It depends on what year vehicle the tachometer came out of. From the design of the dial, I'm guess it came from an 84-86 (or early 87) Cherokee or Comanche. Those didn't have a potentiometer on the back for calibrating. That said, six cylinders is six cylinders, and the tach doesn't know if the engine is a 2.8L, 3.4L, or 4.0L. Those readings look WAY off. I wonder if the tachometer is any good. I think it's theoretically possible to pull the needle off and reinstall it pointing in a different direction, but I've never been brave enough to try that. But I think that's what people do when they install those decals to make their instruments have a white background.
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Aftermarket fenders - fit and quality?
Eagle replied to Airborne Janitor's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
So how about naming the three makers, and telling us which is #2 and which is #3 so we'll know who to avoid? -
Master cylinder and/or slave cylinder.
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I only just got around to reading through this thread. I'll add my belated sympathy, but it's some consolation that you're getting a decent insurance settlement AND that you've found a decent replacement. I so envy other parts of the country, not just for their less restrictive gun laws. Around this neck o' the woods, you can't find a Dodge or RAM pickup more than three or four years old that still has wheel arches -- they all rust out, almost completely, very quickly. As to the punk, my guess is that if he wasn't man enough to register with selective service (which is a legal requirement), he probably also didn't bother to vote. IMHO, anyone who is eligible to vote but doesn't has forfeited his/her right to complain in any way about the results of an election. Back in 2008 and again in 2012, both years over 47 percent of the population voted for Obama's opponent. We were pretty unhappy when he won, but we weren't out striking, blocking traffic, screeching about sabotaging the electoral college ... or vandalizing the property of those who voted for "hope and change." We sucked it up and moved on. Now that we have survived eight years of Obama's best efforts to destroy the United States, it's time to let someone rebuild the country. Suck it up, Buttercup.
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I think WJ may also be 5 on 5. Yes, it was.
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Briarwood And the late 80s vintage XJ Wagoneers were woodies (or vinylies, to be more correct).
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Good deal if you like the wheels. I don't.
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After another look, that upper radiator hose bothers me, too. Is there a decent amount of clearance between the hose and the serpentine belt? In the photo it looks like they could be making contact. If that's the case, it wouldn't take long for the belt to saw through the hose.
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You don't have nearly enough belt contact on the alternator pulley. Are you sure you have it routed correctly?
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Correct -- I have a $500 deductable, so I can't get it fixed on my insurance and let them subrogate. Yes, I'm well aware of the medical issues. I was injured in a car accident when I was 14. The extent of my injuries didn't show up until three or four months after the accident -- and I've had back problems ever since (58 years worth). I'm getting checked out.
