Eagle

1-5-3-6-2-4. The trick is knowing where 1 is ...

What do I think? I think a 2.5L isn't enough engine to push 33-inch tires on the street, and especially not on the highway. With that setup, and the 3.55 gears that are behind that AX-4 transmission, you not only won't need fifth gear, you also won't need fourth gear. The 2.5L needs RPMs to do anything, which is why the 5-speeds came with 4.10 gears while the 5-speed and 4.0L combination had 3.07 gears. With stock tires, your 4-banger runs 2670 RPM at 60 MPH. Switch to 33s, and it'll be turning only 2250 RPM at 60 MPH. Even 4.10 gears won't quite bring you back to stock RPM. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html

It will be MUCH easier to source an AX-5 than to find a 4WD AX-4. Why insist on another 4WD transmission? They are the same except for the 5th gear -- if you don't want to use 5th, just use the first four gears, but you'll have the fifth gear for those rare days when you're going downhill with a tailwind.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/49495-archer-bros-monoleaf-springs/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/fiberglass-leaf-springs-225602/

What about fuel economy? Baseline would be, of course, the factory injectors, then the 710s, and then the 746s. Personally, I'm much more concerned with fuel economy than I am with performance.

:hmm: You don't put in new oil after you drain out the old? :banana:

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should work.

The pilot bushing or bearing fits the crankshaft.

700 to 750 is correct.

Cap the vacuum ports and lock the CAD in the engaged position.

Darn right, I'm surprised with the popularity of the XJ/MJ there aren't any good reputable U.S companies making them :hmm: They can't compete with the Chinese and the Mexicans.

What do you mean by "beat up on her a little too much"?

Just the opposite. When the fan clutch is failing, the engine will overheat when stopped in traffic and cool down when moving.

To answer your question, YES -- the lower hose does collapse at speed. That's why the spring is in there.

I'll probably buy another matching flasher for the other location this weekend and see if that might fix the problem... if not I guess ill go back to the incandescents Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk That's not the problem. One flasher is for the turn signals, the other is for the hazard warning flashers. They operate independently. Do your hazards work with the LEDs?

The proverbial VAM engines? Weren't those the older 258 c.i.d. engines?

Unless you want to build a 4.7L stroker.

Those are ALL stock shocks, though. Some were direct look-ups in the Monroe catalog, others I chased down through the process I described above. For shocks to fit a 3-1/2" lift, you'll want to find something with a mid-travel length approximately 3 inches longer. Approximately is good enoigh -- going through the Monroe listings, you'll find that the lengths for one series of shock aren't exactly the same as for another, but both are listed for stock vehicles.

I switched my ;88 Cherokee over to aluminum a long time before Mac's came out with the tank you're using. I used a racing surge tank from Moroso, the speed equipment manufacturer. It's a universal, so I had to troll the hardware stores to find the right fittings to make it work. I bolted a length of slotted angle to the pinch seam under the OEM tank location and then attached the Moroso tank to that. I put the overflow catch bottle over next to the air box -- couldn't figure a better place for it, so there it is. It has been there for at least ten years, and it works fine.

Correct. On the "open" system the radiator cap acts as a check valve. Grab a radiator cap and look at it. It has a fairly strong spring that holds the gasket down against the flange inside the radiator neck. That's the pressure seal, and the strength of that spring is what determines the pressure rating of the cap. When the pressure in the system exceeds that value, it forces the gasket off the seat and allows coolant to flow through the overflow tube into the catch bottle. Now we have to have a way of getting the coolant back into the radiator. See that smaller disc in the middle of the gasket? It also has a light spring on it. When the radiator is under pressure, the pressure holds that disc against the gasket and maintains the seal. When the system cools down, now the radiator goes into a slight vacuum. This pulls the small disc away from the gasket and allows coolant to be pulled back from the catch bottle into the radiator. The "closed" system doesn't have any of the overflow/return provisions. It relies on the air space in the plastic bottle to accommodate the expansion. That's why the plastic bottle (if you still have it) must not be filled more than halfway.

I just remembered that I had these from a similar discussion awhile ago. Might help.

Hockey pucks are used if you don't install longer bump stops. Tire size has nothing to do with it. The bump stops are to protect the shock absorbers. If you add more bump stop than necessary to protect the shocks in order to keep big tires from hitting the bodywork, you're limiting suspension travel. Either trim the bodywork ( :eek: EEK!) or run smaller tires.

i was under the impression that open cooling radiators have slighty larger compartiments to hold more coolant than closed ones which makes sense since the closed system has to build up pressure in order to raise the boiling point, which may take longer and/or be less efficient if the radiator had larger compartiments (more room, less pressure) in closed systems these compartiments are slim Both systems have to build up pressure to raise the boiling point. That's why that thing you screw on after you check the coolant level is called a "pressure" cap.

The OEM plastic bottle did NOT have a hose to the ground. If yours did, somebody had screwed with it,and that would explain why it had problems. The OEM plastic bottle (and the Mac's aluminum replacement) is an integral part of the sealed, pressurized cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap, to hold pressure and thus to raise the boiling point of the coolant to around 240 degrees F. When coolant heats up, it expands. In a normal, "open" system, the radiator cap has a two-way spring valve that allows coolant to flow out to a catch bottle, and then allows the coolant to be sucked back into the radiator when it cools down. There should be NO air in the open system. The factory "closed" system has no overflow provision on the pressure cap. To allow for coolant exoansion, the plastic bottle is filled only halfway when cold, and the remaining air space is to allow for expansion. There was no tube to allow coolant to dump to the ground. The Mac's aluminum tank, however, (like the Moroso aluminum tank I use) takes a conventional radiator tank and DOES have a fitting for a tube to an overflow catch bottle. Which means the Mac's tank can (and should) be filled completely rather than leaving half of it empty to allow expansion. http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/8956868+w600+cr1/154_0607_01_z%2bcooling_system_buyers_guide%2bmacs_radiator.jpg If someone modified your plastic tank to allow a tube to atmosphere, they defeated the purpose because it can't hold pressure when there's a vent line open to atmosphere.