Eagle

Unless you have removed it or disabled it, your proportioning valve is the height-sensing valve mechanism mounted above and to the left of the rear differemtial housing, and connected to the diff cover with a rod.

"Lift supports" is rear hatch struts. Stock MJ rear shocks range from 13" to 14" compressed and 22" to 23" extended, with a mid-travel length in the vicinity of 18-1/4" to 18-1/2". To work with a 3" lift you would go through the Monroe listings to find other shocks with the L1/L1 end fitting and a mid-travel length of approximately 21" (18 + 3). Once you find the shock that matches those criteria as closely as possible, you cross-reference it back to see what vehicle(s) it fits. Then you just shop for shock to fit that vehicle.

The master cylinder and booster will work. If your rear, height-sensing proportioning valve is working you may need to play with the adjustment after the conversion because the discs will provide better stopping.

His effective backspacing would be even less, because the tires he's looking at are on aftermarket rims that probably only have 4 to 4-1/2 inches of backspacing to begin with.

No. Backspacing is the offset from the wheel mounting surface inward toward the centerline of the vehicle. Backspacing is a function of the wheel. Introducing a spacer moves the wheel mounting surface outboard by the depth of the spacer. In practical terms, it has the effect of reducing the backspacing relative to the vehicle.

Why would you intentionally buy a rebuilt transmission that the seller admits was rebuilt incorrectly and doesn't work right? I'd rather get one from a junkyard with higher miles and a 90-day warranty.

I have an MJ with the AX-15 and my 2000 XJ has the 3550. There is no question -- the 3550 is BY FAR smoother than the AX-15. You can't even really compare them. The AX-15 feels like the gears were carved by hand with a sledge hammer compared to the 3550. I bought the 2000 XJ new, and I fell in love with the transmission before I had driven five miles from the stealership. What is your opinion on where I should look for a nv3550? JY or internet(ebay) rebuild? I would start with JY

http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf

I have an MJ with the AX-15 and my 2000 XJ has the 3550. There is no question -- the 3550 is BY FAR smoother than the AX-15. You can't even really compare them. The AX-15 feels like the gears were carved by hand with a sledge hammer compared to the 3550. I bought the 2000 XJ new, and I fell in love with the transmission before I had driven five miles from the stealership.

They sold MJs in Europe, but not many. I have considered this issue, because I don't like not having dedicated turn signals. As has been commented, the XJ had amber turns/hazards. What I would consider doing is sacrificing the backup lights. Rewire so the two bulbs in the red portion of the lights operate only as taillights and brake lights (which they do now). Split off the turn signal function and rewire that to the backup lights, using amber bulbs, using the wiring diagram for the XJ as the guide. Then mount auxiliary lights for backup, and an amber fog light for the rear fog light.

1-5-3-6-2-4. The trick is knowing where 1 is ...

What do I think? I think a 2.5L isn't enough engine to push 33-inch tires on the street, and especially not on the highway. With that setup, and the 3.55 gears that are behind that AX-4 transmission, you not only won't need fifth gear, you also won't need fourth gear. The 2.5L needs RPMs to do anything, which is why the 5-speeds came with 4.10 gears while the 5-speed and 4.0L combination had 3.07 gears. With stock tires, your 4-banger runs 2670 RPM at 60 MPH. Switch to 33s, and it'll be turning only 2250 RPM at 60 MPH. Even 4.10 gears won't quite bring you back to stock RPM. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html

It will be MUCH easier to source an AX-5 than to find a 4WD AX-4. Why insist on another 4WD transmission? They are the same except for the 5th gear -- if you don't want to use 5th, just use the first four gears, but you'll have the fifth gear for those rare days when you're going downhill with a tailwind.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/49495-archer-bros-monoleaf-springs/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/fiberglass-leaf-springs-225602/

What about fuel economy? Baseline would be, of course, the factory injectors, then the 710s, and then the 746s. Personally, I'm much more concerned with fuel economy than I am with performance.

:hmm: You don't put in new oil after you drain out the old? :banana:

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should work.

The pilot bushing or bearing fits the crankshaft.

700 to 750 is correct.

Cap the vacuum ports and lock the CAD in the engaged position.

Darn right, I'm surprised with the popularity of the XJ/MJ there aren't any good reputable U.S companies making them :hmm: They can't compete with the Chinese and the Mexicans.

What do you mean by "beat up on her a little too much"?

Just the opposite. When the fan clutch is failing, the engine will overheat when stopped in traffic and cool down when moving.

To answer your question, YES -- the lower hose does collapse at speed. That's why the spring is in there.